Donnie Posted September 7, 2024 Posted September 7, 2024 In your view, on what circuits are relays mandatory? Thanks in advance
CarlB Posted September 7, 2024 Posted September 7, 2024 All depends on what the amp rating the switches you are using. The wire is important as well, but generally the switch is the component with the low rating.
Marek Posted September 7, 2024 Posted September 7, 2024 Switches, connections, and long wire runs are your most likely sources of either current drop or over-heating (the prime motivators for using relays). As a general rule, that means beams (front lights), fans, and pumps. You can also generalize to say any circuit which is 14AWG or larger; assuming your harness was appropriately sized. If you are replacing the wires, this list is a decent rule of thumb on wire gauges for motorsports: Automotive use (longer wire runs ) 10/14/20AWG: Battery Positive Direct 10AWG Battery Negative Direct 10AWG Other Battery Positive 14AWG Fuel Pump Positive 14AWG Radiator Fan 14AWG Switched Ignition 20AWG 12V 5A Fused 20AWG Tach Output 20AWG Sensors 20 AWG Injectors 20AWG For motorcycle use (short wire runs) 14/18/16/20/22AWG: Injectors 20AWG (better seal plugs) Lambda Sensor (5) 20AWG to Autosport Lambda Harness: 12V+ 20AWG, Heater(-) 20AWG, Vs 22AWG, Ip 22AWG, Lambda Analog GND 22AWG 5V Sensors 22AWG; Fuel Pump +/- 16AWG VBat+ 14AWG Chassis Ground VBat- 14AWG References: https://dsl.torque.net/tech/relays/relays.html https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html 1
jbcollier Posted September 8, 2024 Posted September 8, 2024 Can’t give advice without an application. A pre-crossflow with a 20 amp generator and a pair Webers is a completely beast to a fuel injected, Duratec with all the mod-cons.
Donnie Posted September 8, 2024 Author Posted September 8, 2024 Funny. You had plenty of erroneous advice to give when my Series 1 was on BAT. 1
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