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Everything posted by CarlB

  1. My interest was in understanding maintenance requirements both the intervals and the procedures. I have a race car background and want to insure reliability. These cars are about halfway between a race car and a production car, and the maintenance is about halfway as well. The more track time the more maintenance.
  2. Croc thank you - I will also replace it if it is bent or has been dented.
  3. Thank you - I have a bunch of stuff coming from Bruce and was surprised when he told me he wasn't aware of the issue. Bruce is very helpful and knows the cars. Despite paying to ship parts back and forth across the country I like to get stuff from him. He guided me towards the stronger front hubs, axles and bearings, and I need to check the rear wheel bearings and upgrade those if I have the old ones. I am going to have all the suspension apart to replace the bushings with Power flex bushings. I hadn't considered how the A frame / lateral link worked, but it is under a twisting moment. I do not understand why they would do that. I am either going to replace it or at least have it magnafluxed. A friend of mine regularly runs against a guy who races a Caterham. I am going to speak to him as well. I am not putting urethane bushings in the A frame. The more compliant rubber will reduce the bending moment on the tube. Getting my car back from body work next week. Hope your car is fixed or close.
  4. I am wondering if anyone on this forum besides Croc has experienced this failure. Has anyone replaced the part because they identified a problem?
  5. My car isn't in my shop now, but it is an imperial S3 (1999). I will be able to get a picture of the motor installed without the scuttle when it gets back. Here is a picture of the top of the motor. Can I answer any questions about it for you? I have had it in and out without removing the scuttle and with the scuttle off. Much easier to do with the scuttle off. The two bolts that clamp the motor are very difficult to get off without removing the scuttle. I have had a very difficult time figuring out the wiring. I did not want the standard Caterham wiring and switch.
  6. If you want a motorsport quality wiring there is a guy close to you. He builds harnesses for indy cars and all types of race cars. I can highly recommend his work. Franz Diebold franz@dieboldautosport.com
  7. I haven't done it on a 7, but I have done it on other cars. It is an easy way to change the camber curve as well. If you change the angle of the upper control arm by using a longer bolt and spacing the rod end up, you get more camber change.
  8. Thank you all for the information. IF I want to replace my rear panel, I am going to have to learn some good metal working skills. One thing I learned from the How it Was Made video is the carbon dash is glued on. I will not have to figure out how to drill it for rivets.
  9. Where can we watch your video? Did you replace any of your body panels? If you replaced any panels, how did you match the rivet holes in the frame. I assume the new panel did not have the holes already drilled. Could you remove and install the rear panel without cutting it? Thank you for your response.
  10. You are not the only one interested in this topic. I do not have any experience but am very interested in learning from someone who has done it. Powder coating suspension parts is not a good idea. If something is cracked you can’t see it.
  11. Looking forward to going to an event with you and seeing how all of this works. I finally figured out how to get my windshield wipers to work without the big Lucas switch. Lots of directions on the web, most were not accurate. Have a great Christmas.
  12. If you have a volt ohm meter check the voltage with the engine running. The voltage should be higher than the voltage with the car off. That will tell you if the alternator is working. There are two types of master cut of switches manual and electric. Race cars have externally mounted cut offs. On Caterhams they are usually mounted at the base of the windshield where it bolts to the cowl. An inexpensive one is a switch that is built to attach to the battery post and the positive lead to the starter. You can also get a relay or solenoid that can be located close to the battery and small wires and a switch can be mounted anywhere.
  13. It appears you are using extended nose plugs. They are great for not fouling in street engines, but that might be your hot spot. You might consider regular plugs. The ceramic and center electrode do not protrude as far and the tip will not get as hot.
  14. Totally agree - Use a magnify glass to look at the ceramic the silver specs are very small.
  15. I didn’t give the second source of auto ignition. If the fuel doesn’t have enough octane the fuel will start to burn normally but as the temperature and pressure rises a second flame front will start. Generally this is a hot spot, but it doesn’t have to be. A Englishman did a lot of work on this. If you look on a BMC engine valve cover you will see a list of patents given to Mr. Westfield
  16. You need the help of a good tuner. It sounds as if you are experiencing autoignition. This is the precursor of detonation. Autoignition is caused by a hot spot in the combustion chamber. You might be able to cure it by adding more fuel, or reducing the ignition timing. If the engine was dyno tuned before you got it, the problem is highly likely the fuel and you need more octane if you want to maintain the same power it had off the dyno. If you have a lambda sensor, leaded fuel will cause the sensor to fail, but it takes time. Most octane boosters are toluene. Toluene is used as a paint thinner and is 125 octane. The sweet smell of burning race gas is toluene. Sparkplugs are hard to read with modern unleaded gas, but look at the porcelain. The side of the porcelain not where the electrode sticks out. You do not want to see any silvery flakes. those flakes are your pistons.
  17. When I got my car Michael told me that my car was the first Zetec. The kit was shipped back to Caterham after the SCCA approved the Zetec for production car racing. Michael even knew the guy who did the modification to install the engine. My car has the notched frame for the stock intake manifold. It didn’t have the brace or frame tube that would be connected between the side of the transmission tunnel and the front right suspension. The front connection is close to the rear upper control arm pickup. My car had the tabs on the frame for the brace. I do not know if other cars had the tabs.
  18. I am curious about your fuel cell. Would you please post some pictures?
  19. My car is a 1999 S-3. I can't speak for other years. If you look at the picture of the side of the cage / car you will see the rear attachment is different. This is what I assume is standard on Caterhams of my vintage, and I think I have seen on the metric cars as well. The two forward mounts are crossmembers that have been added. They are attached to the frame underneath the car. The cage tube fits down in a pocket and bolts in from the bottom. All the other connections are are where the normal roll bar mounts.
  20. I want to point out that Caterham puts aluminum Honeycomb panels in the side of the car that do provide some side impact protection. I have a custom roll cage that isn't to difficult to remove. I am not aware of any cage or side bar configuration that allows the roof to go on. My cage bolts on like the regular roll bar in back. It bolts to the Caterham supplied points just in front of the rear tire, and has two cross members for the forward connections. The biggest issue with removing or installing it is it requires two people to lift it over the car.
  21. The drawing above shows the nut but cuts of the torque spec. Nylon lock nuts are a one time use unless you get the aircraft ones. My ball joints are double nutted. If you know the size of the nut you can look up the torque spec on a general torque chart. Trying to get a torque wrench on the nuts, especially the upper one will be a trick.
  22. I have one of there radiators as well and am very happy
  23. There are lots of places on the web that tell you how to mount harnesses. You are correct the single crotch belt is mounted forward and the double one is mounted to the rear. I have not seen any place that says how the belt should be secured. The SCCA is not very specific. They allow belts to be attached to the floor if a large diameter washer or backing is used. My submarine belts are mounted with 1/8 inch aluminum plates top and bottom that are 4 inches long and 3 inches wide, as well as big steel bumper washers.
  24. Thank you very much for the great pictures Croc.
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