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    Car guy from age 10
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    Northern Virginia
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    Cars & Guns
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  1. If you have a volt ohm meter check the voltage with the engine running. The voltage should be higher than the voltage with the car off. That will tell you if the alternator is working. There are two types of master cut of switches manual and electric. Race cars have externally mounted cut offs. On Caterhams they are usually mounted at the base of the windshield where it bolts to the cowl. An inexpensive one is a switch that is built to attach to the battery post and the positive lead to the starter. You can also get a relay or solenoid that can be located close to the battery and small wires and a switch can be mounted anywhere.
  2. It appears you are using extended nose plugs. They are great for not fouling in street engines, but that might be your hot spot. You might consider regular plugs. The ceramic and center electrode do not protrude as far and the tip will not get as hot.
  3. Totally agree - Use a magnify glass to look at the ceramic the silver specs are very small.
  4. I didn’t give the second source of auto ignition. If the fuel doesn’t have enough octane the fuel will start to burn normally but as the temperature and pressure rises a second flame front will start. Generally this is a hot spot, but it doesn’t have to be. A Englishman did a lot of work on this. If you look on a BMC engine valve cover you will see a list of patents given to Mr. Westfield
  5. You need the help of a good tuner. It sounds as if you are experiencing autoignition. This is the precursor of detonation. Autoignition is caused by a hot spot in the combustion chamber. You might be able to cure it by adding more fuel, or reducing the ignition timing. If the engine was dyno tuned before you got it, the problem is highly likely the fuel and you need more octane if you want to maintain the same power it had off the dyno. If you have a lambda sensor, leaded fuel will cause the sensor to fail, but it takes time. Most octane boosters are toluene. Toluene is used as a paint thinner and is 125 octane. The sweet smell of burning race gas is toluene. Sparkplugs are hard to read with modern unleaded gas, but look at the porcelain. The side of the porcelain not where the electrode sticks out. You do not want to see any silvery flakes. those flakes are your pistons.
  6. When I got my car Michael told me that my car was the first Zetec. The kit was shipped back to Caterham after the SCCA approved the Zetec for production car racing. Michael even knew the guy who did the modification to install the engine. My car has the notched frame for the stock intake manifold. It didn’t have the brace or frame tube that would be connected between the side of the transmission tunnel and the front right suspension. The front connection is close to the rear upper control arm pickup. My car had the tabs on the frame for the brace. I do not know if other cars had the tabs.
  7. I am curious about your fuel cell. Would you please post some pictures?
  8. My car is a 1999 S-3. I can't speak for other years. If you look at the picture of the side of the cage / car you will see the rear attachment is different. This is what I assume is standard on Caterhams of my vintage, and I think I have seen on the metric cars as well. The two forward mounts are crossmembers that have been added. They are attached to the frame underneath the car. The cage tube fits down in a pocket and bolts in from the bottom. All the other connections are are where the normal roll bar mounts.
  9. I want to point out that Caterham puts aluminum Honeycomb panels in the side of the car that do provide some side impact protection. I have a custom roll cage that isn't to difficult to remove. I am not aware of any cage or side bar configuration that allows the roof to go on. My cage bolts on like the regular roll bar in back. It bolts to the Caterham supplied points just in front of the rear tire, and has two cross members for the forward connections. The biggest issue with removing or installing it is it requires two people to lift it over the car.
  10. The drawing above shows the nut but cuts of the torque spec. Nylon lock nuts are a one time use unless you get the aircraft ones. My ball joints are double nutted. If you know the size of the nut you can look up the torque spec on a general torque chart. Trying to get a torque wrench on the nuts, especially the upper one will be a trick.
  11. I have one of there radiators as well and am very happy
  12. There are lots of places on the web that tell you how to mount harnesses. You are correct the single crotch belt is mounted forward and the double one is mounted to the rear. I have not seen any place that says how the belt should be secured. The SCCA is not very specific. They allow belts to be attached to the floor if a large diameter washer or backing is used. My submarine belts are mounted with 1/8 inch aluminum plates top and bottom that are 4 inches long and 3 inches wide, as well as big steel bumper washers.
  13. Thank you very much for the great pictures Croc.
  14. You might want to look at this site. You have a replica of a Lotus and can title the car as a replica. https://www.dmv.virginia.gov/vehicles/reconstructed.html#:~:text=Every person who owns a reconstructed vehicle%2C specially,vehicle must be shown on the Virginia title. If you title as a 1962 Lotus there aren't any emissions and the safety equipment only has to match what was on the car originally.
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