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Exhaust system


athens7

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I had the exact problem. I went to a muffler shop and spend $ 20 to have it re-weld. You need to check the bracket holding the exhaust system near the rear wheel. If it is not tight, vibration may be the cause. Prior to the re-weld, my bracket came loose several times. Now at over 10,000 miles, every thing is fine.

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At 1500 miles, I have a 4 inch crack in my exhaust, where the collector meets the catalyst. Anyone else have similar problems with the rear exiting Caterham exhaust?

 

Hi Brad,

 

I do not have a Caterham :cool: but just a poor mans home built :D and have had the same problem at about the same mileage except my exhaust cracked where the pipes came to gather before the collector. The first time I welded the tubes together I did not use a gas backup in the exhaust tubes and was told by a friend that I needed to fill the tubes with an inert gas when welding them up to help prevent cracking problems due to vibration and heat (expansion) and exhaust rumble (the pulse from each cylinder firing). I though he was a bit over the top on that and just welded the crack up and with in I would say 250 miles I had two more cracks that I just welded up as a temp fix because I now realized that my friend was most likely correct plus I just wanted to improve my header and exhaust routing any way when I had the time. I have actually re-build (new tubes from engine to collector) the exhaust and did use a gas backup in the tubes and so far no cracks after about 500 miles of street an auto crossing and just having fun so I guess my friend dose know what he was saying about welding an exhaust up.

Hope this helps.

:)

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My Caterham developed a crack in the exhaust at the weld just ahead of the forward oxygen sensor after about 2500 miles. I had it welded and has been OK for the last 1000 miles. I bought my car from Rocky Mountain Sporstcars and talked to them about the crack . They said they had seen it before and developed a bracket to support the exhaust in this area. The bracket connects where the primary tubes bolt to the collector and the other end attaches near the pedal box. I don't know if any other dealers have a fix or not. I don't know if the bracket works since I am still waiting on mine, must be made of unobtainium. Take a look at the rubber bobbins that mount the exhaust to the body, they may be binding indicating that the exhaust is twisted on its mounts. I fought getting my system installed , never have been able to get it completley sealed. Make sure whoever you get to repair the exhaust knows the system is stainless steel !

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Damn Brad, you are catching all the bad breaks!

 

As people have noted, this has happened to several people, including Tom & Louise out west...on their drive home from the dealership!

 

Tom & Louise Forsyth's Trip Home

 

I'm pretty sure it also happened to the guy who bought the Yellow car from Rex at Speed Classics. I'm happy to report that my exhaust seems to be holding together okay after 3000+ miles. I have a side exit (converted from rear) and my headers were Jet Hot coated pretty early on (I mention this because perhaps the taking on and off of things helped settle/reduce strain on the pipes).

 

 

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My exhaust was jet hot coated at assembly. While it only had 100 miles on it when I bought it, it was about 2 years old, so the crack might have been a while in the making. I talked with Ben at RMSC today; they have developed a front exhaust mount that doesn't require new holes in the body. I am looking forward to receiving one-I'll post when it arrives (sometime in January, along with a Soft Bits tunnel bag). As to the breaks, Al, I haven't mentioned the wiring problems, the continuing hard start problems (immobilizer, wiring from ignition to fuel pump relay?), the continuing cut off when clutch engaged, etc. Sure glad I bought a new car! I am up to 150 hp at the wheels, though (dyno chart to follow).

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Does Caterham make the exhaust from mild steel or stainless? Too bad about the ceramic coating- obviously that has to be well and truly sanded off in the area to be welded- then it will be the first area to rust if it is not stainless. If it is SS, make sure it is welded with stainless wire or TIG'd with the proper rod.

For our learning experience could you post a photo of the crack?

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