11Budlite Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 One of the best mods I did to my T9 when I rebuilt it with close ratio gears was to put a fill plug in the top cover. Anybody who has had to access the fill/level plug in the drivers footwell knows what a PITA that job is, especially when the DPO drilled the access hole in the aluminum offset from the plug! :ack: I bought a Quaife top cover from Taylor Race Eng which I think I read on blatchat was supposed to reinforce the cast iron case which is prone to cracking. The cover comes tapped (from memory I think 3/8" NPT) for the breather filter, but is not tapped for a fill plug. It does have a boss right next to the "Q" that I drilled and tapped 9/16-18 to accept a fill plug. Here's a photo of it installed on the tranny with the breather filter, and the Birkin slave cylinder and mounting block which has to be slightly modified because of the increased thickness of the cover. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/49619016_IMG_9504.JPG And here's a picture of it with the tranny installed in the car: http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1889017534_Trans Fill Plug.JPG Now it's just a matter of removing the plug, making up a simple dip stick, and being able to check and fill the tranny from under the hood instead of from the footwell. I ended up making a dip stick out of an old wiper blade metal reinforcement that I bent (so it wouldn't fall down inside), and center-punched for a full level mark. Like this: http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1000234743_20080808_0001.JPG I know the price of the cover has gone up quite a bit from when I purchased it, but the same type of plug has been done with the stock stamped-steel cover. If anybody is interested in going the Quaife route, I have some extra 9/16-18 plugs you can have, and the matching tap that you're welcome to borrow. Or send me your cover and I'll put it in the drill press and drill/tap it for you, and send it back with a new plug installed. All you'd have to do is cover shipping... Bruce :7drive: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slomove Posted August 10, 2008 Share Posted August 10, 2008 That is what I did when I had the engine out lately. But I am envious about your really spiffy looking box lid. I welded a 1/2" fine thread hex nut to the stock lid (because the lid is a bit thin for direct threading) and used an off the shelf drain plug. Plastic stick with notches as dipstick. Oh well, in the dark cave of the tranny tunnel you can't see it, anyway Gerthttp://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/943447125_P1000760.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Posted August 11, 2008 Share Posted August 11, 2008 Mine is done just like Gert's, but using a stepped O2 bung TIG welded into the same general area (forward-left corner of the lid). Thanks again, Doug! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
southwind25 Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 I think i'll do this while the assembly is out...good tip!:hurray: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjslutz Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 I did the same, but use the engine dipstick. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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