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Number 1 exhaust down pipe/manifold/header


DB6

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Kisses the alterator, the alt has a heat shield on it that looks stock but is now cracked, , as does the alt, I do not want to change the tubes, anyone know of a smaller {less diameter) alternator that will work.

This is on a Cat 7 , 1985 1700cc Kent cross flowS Sprint with a "Raceline "performance mod engine with just a 2000 miles on it, the exhaust and performance are very good, I just need to clear the alt as it is hard on it; anyone else experience this or is it just because of the fancy pipework??

Thanks

Davidhttp://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1535869871_Kisses.jpg

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David, Chuck is correct. A lot of the Birkin owners have swapped out the original Bosch alternator to a compact Nippondenso alternator from a Geo Metro. If I remember correctly mine came from a '92-'94 Metro and has a ribbed belt/pulley system. You could either change out the pulley or look for an earlier alternator fitment that has the v-belt arrangement. We also mounted the alternator on the intake side to get away from the heat of the exhaust. Here's a pic of my set-up:

 

http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/303659047_721282905_IMG_0861.jpg

 

Bruce :7drive:

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Thanks guys,

I was hoping that I could just drop in a smaller unit,mine is the original vee belt, using the original brackets and mounting points that would be great, I think Budlites idea is excellent but if I could just get even half an inch of clearance in the original position I would be happy.Any one hear if any of these will just bolt in using the original brackets and bolts ?

 

Cheeers

DB

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David,

 

I have read that some of the Caterham guys in England use Brise alternators and in checking out their website, some of the alternators they carry are Denso. Here's their website: http://www.brise.co.uk/index.html

 

Check out the p/n 5021 spec sheet here: http://www.brise.co.uk/documents/NDA02110055.pdf

 

This seems to be exactly what I have other than this one has the v-groove pulley (like the '87 Samurai) and it's only a 3-wire alternator rather than a 4-wire like I have (the 4th wire is the sense wire). If you look at the dimensions the main body diameter is 106mm which is just a little over 4". If that would give you enough clearance you could make up a bracket to keep the alternator where it is and just wire it up according to the Denso instructions. You might even be able to use the original bracket with some washers or spacers. Brise also carries a mounting bracket p/n MTK002 to give you an idea what it could look like. Here:

 

http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/865702753_mtk002.gif

 

The Denso alternators are available at most of the local auto parts stores. I got mine from Autozone with a lifetime warranty.

 

Bruce :7drive:

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DB6:

 

I have same engine, same exhaust manifolds, and same problem. I can't even get a shield between alternator and pipe after setting even remotely snug belt tension. I've been looking at ways to change lower mount bracket to get clearance and belt tension, as it seems intuitively cheaper than an alternator swap.

 

I'll be watching to see how this thread progresses...

 

Cheers,

Ian

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Ian,

Yeah it is a problem, like yourself I am looking to go the simpleat route posssible to get clearance, I was trying to avoid changing harness plug ins, wiring etc, and trying to get away from adding other mounting brackets.It really was a dumb design, the heat shield is like compressed cardboard with some asbestos in it and I dont see how it could work that well as the pipe sits so close it looks like it has been cracked for years.I think the lower mount bracket would work if there was such a thing available?

 

Other than that and as it looks like I have the original unit, I have a friend that said he would fabricate the brackets, so maybe I should just get the Nipondesi with the Vee pulley for the Samurai.

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