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Posted

Need some help on this one. I have a situation where if my car sits for more than a day, the clutch disk sticks to the flywheel. When you depress the clutch pedal and bumping the key, you're not quite sure what to expect--I've learned to make sure there's nothing behind it. The cure has always been to put the tranny in 3rd and bump the key one more time--this frees it every time. The clutch disk, pressure plate, TO bearing, and pilot bearing are all new. The flywheel has been reground. No rust, etc when i put it together and i did lightly grease the tranny input shaft before assembly. Due to radiator problems, i have only driven the car about 20 mile this year but now that I've got that fixed, this has shown up. Once it's free, no problems the rest of the day, no grinding during shifts. Any ideas? Car is a 1982 S3 with the Xflow with the 4 spd sport box tranny. Thanks.

Posted

while I think about possible causes, can I suggest you slip the gearbox into neutral before starting, rather than worry about what's in front or behind that you might lurch into. ;)

 

stock Ford clutch assy, or something more modern?

Posted

hi.

 

i'd be a bit curious and wondering if the throw out bearing is working correctly? i've had cars (not the Seven, though) on which the throw out bearing would act wacky, and stick, and do what you are describing....

 

when you put in the clutch, did you use a new throw out bearing, and grease it according to the manual? and was the arm good, with the correct hardware, and lubrication? just a couple of thoughts that come to mind....

 

good luck!

 

todd

Posted

Happened to my old 280Z. Majority of the time, the same problem you described.

 

Someone told me the problem probably a bend disc plate. When I installed the new

clucth disc, I used a clutch aligner. However, I let the transmission hang while trying

to push the input shaft to align the spline. Sure enough, the center clutch disc bent & bearing will not release .

 

I replaced the disc and works afterwards.

 

I hope you did not do the same stupid thing?

 

 

Posted

Interesting points. I always start it with the tranny in neutral now and check to see if it will go into gear. If not, I use the third gear method. Throw out bearing is new and lubed both the arm and bearing guiding surface. It is a standard Ford type replacement--nothing hi-perf at this point. I also did use a clutch alignment tool. I dont think i bent the center of the disk but this has got me thinking of something to look at if i have to remove the engine and tranny. What's puzzeling about this is that the first shake-down runs, before the radiator went bad, were fine--nothing at all for weeks. Then this started after it sat for about 6 weeks. I'm just hoping that a few more trips, shifting, and 1st gear starts might just work the kinks out. I've only ever seen this once on--was on a British car--and after about a week of driving it stopped completely. If I do have to remove the engine/tranny, a better hi-perf after-market will go in.

Posted

Does your grease come in a container like this?

 

 

http://hardwareaisle.thisoldhouse.com/images/2008/06/18/loctite_pressure_pack.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

Something to consider if you know your car is going to sit for weeks on end:

 

every couple of weeks or so, I go out to the car, put it in gear, right foot on brake, left foot depresses clutch, and bump the starter...

 

this spins the flywheel (while holding the clutch friction disc in place) so that they lose their desire to 'bond' over time.

Posted

LOL--you guys always make me laugh--yes i did use high-temp grease and it didnt come out of a Loctite tube!! I'm thinking i should plug the vent hole at the bottom of the tranny near the inspection cover and fill it with oil--go for the wet-clutch version. What do you think? Should be one "smokin'" hot clutch!! With the unusually warm weather around here, I'll try a few more trips and see what happens.

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