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Hank's MEGABUSA Project


Hank

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from Hank's blog...

" and I found it after cussing and trial fitting for 5 minutes or so. "

 

if there's cussin' goin' on after only 5 minutes, be thankfull it's not a Caterham kit ... :ack:

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if there's cussin' goin' on after only 5 minutes, be thankfull it's not a Caterham kit ... :ack:

 

Well, I realize it's a kit car and the instruction manual will eventually run out. This darn front anti-rollbar (swaybar) is so odd-shaped and the area it fits in is so cramped that it can only go in one way. And the manual ran out of directions a LONG time ago. :D Pretty much everything else is self explanatory for a gearhead like me. It helps that I'm a mechanical engineer by trade.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I looked at your website build log - don't be too distraught about your header cut-out job on the bonnet - use this opportunity to put a stainless steel sheet surround around the opening - now that you know where the headers will exist, you can spend time making a nice paper template and cut out a very nice and classy looking and durable piece - stainless insulates from heat quite well, and your paint will thank you later as well.

 

Cheers,

 

Aric

 

 

 

Getting closer to cranking the beast! The dry sump oil lines are almost complete. The fuel lines are complete. Tomorrow is wiring the engine!

 

:shocked:

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- don't be too distraught about your header cut-out job on the bonnet - use this opportunity to put a stainless steel sheet surround around the opening -

 

Seconded !! how about a pair of SS panels that butt together in the middle to form two small openings, one for the front pair and another for the rear pair?

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Thanks for the suggestions on the exhaust cutout. I may just try it.

 

I really wish I could figure out what the oil tank threads are (multiple bungs) so that I could plug them and prime the oiling system. :mad:

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Well, by God's grace I was blessed in finding the proper hardware to plug 2 of the 3 dry sump oil tank holes.

 

The very bottom bung takes a M14x1.5 bolt. This serves as an oil drain plug, so I added a copper washer and teflon tape for safe measure.

 

The bottom bung on the SIDE of the tank takes a 1/8" NPT thread. With that settled I ordered an Autometer oil temperature gauge with 1/8" NPT sender.

 

The top bung on the SIDE of the tank is still a mystery. I was told it was 3/8" BSP (British Standard Pipe) thread. I purchased a 3/8" BSP cap from McMaster-Carr and it didn't fit.

 

Any guesses? :ack:

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Here's a less-than-complete answer, but I found out the hard way that NPT and BSP aren't the same... :ack:

 

wish I could remember the details though. :confused:

 

For what its worth, don't force anything that won't spin in with light finger torque

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Woo who! 3/8" NPT it turned out to be. I put Teflon tape on the bung, screwed the cap on hand tight, and I finished it off with my channelock pliers.

 

I'm so happy right now. I only wish the parts I ordered this week would be arriving tomorrow:

Oil Temp Gauge

Oil Press Gauge

Coolant Temp Gauge

Odyssey PC625 battery

205/50/15 Falken Azenis RT-615's

Atm press sensor

starter relay

fuel pump relay

dry sump/tranny vent tank

fiberglass resin

 

I still need to order a piece of carbon fiber big enough for the Westfield dash. A UK company sells it pre-made, but I'm not having the best of luck in getting parts in a timely manner from Britain.

 

My 15" wheels are currently in transit (3rd time). No tracking number (3rd time). D'OH! :crazy:

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...Odyssey PC625 battery

 

A Odyessey 545 will probably be enough for you - keep in mind you really only need it for starting capacity - the 545 is plenty big enough to turn over a Hayabusa...

 

I have a 545 on my Yamaha R1 and it doesn't break a sweat....ever.

 

 

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Well, as far as the battery goes, I chose the PC625 to fit the Westfield supplied battery tray. Of course, I could build my own battery tray for the smaller PC545. If I run out of options to lighten the car the battery change nets me an additional 1.5 lb reduction. :jester:

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every ounce counts ! ;)

 

Well, as far as the battery goes, I chose the PC625 to fit the Westfield supplied battery tray. Of course, I could build my own battery tray for the smaller PC545. If I run out of options to lighten the car the battery change nets me an additional 1.5 lb reduction. :jester:
;) ;) ;)
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D'oh!

 

I have to wait until 5 am when SummitRacing opens again to order my Flaming River battery/alternator kill switch, push button starter, and split wiring loom tubing.

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Looks very nice! Again, don't be impatient waiting for parts. They are notoriously slow sometimes from the UK, but I've never had anything not arrive eventually, either from an individual on FleeceBay, or company site.

 

It always surprises me, however, that after thousands of these 7 cars have been built over the years, people still don't get proper instructions with them. How does Factory Five do it, and why hasn't anybody copied their format? ie. things arrive in numbered containers.

 

My so-called kit (Deman originally) had instructions that were written by a 3 year old. And although it's not highly recommended, I have spent 3 years obsessing over something that isn't work related, that may or may not be finished by summer. That's just how these things go.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Wheels finally made it from Britain (2.5 month journey). I mounted them in 205/50/15 Falken Azenis RT-615's. A little bit of electrical work is all that remains. Should be cranking the engine soon. I spent most of today tightening all of the bolts and marking their current location to a reference on the frame.

 

SO CLOSE!

 

http://www.hanksmegabusa.com/thebuild.htm

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