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Posted

Dermot, the older (C2 - C4) vette setup is similar to jag, but does not have the inboard brakes.

 

I do not have an opening tall enough in my frame to support upper and lower Aarms. I'm hoping that the Jag/old-vette setup that uses the the half shaft as the upper link would fit.

 

Is your Jag at a place where we can pull a wheel off? I can drive the rotus there and do some side-by-side measurements.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

well, I found a complete '75 Jag rear setup for $50 locally. I'll pick it up saturday and see how it goes.

Posted
well, I found a complete '75 Jag rear setup for $50 locally. I'll pick it up saturday and see how it goes.

So Mazda what are you going to tell people what Franklin 7 is after you put the Jag rear end into it....Not really a Rotus any more. :seeya:

Posted
So Mazda what are you going to tell people what Franklin 7 is after you put the Jag rear end into it....Not really a Rotus any more. :seeya:

that ship sailed long ago... if it works, the rear that i'll be taking out wasn't from the the original Rotus either.

Posted

I know I am a little late in repling to this but the main problem with a ride quality in a stick axel 7 with high HP and more wieght than the normal 7 is that the rear trailing arms are to short,with a stick axel out of a big car like Mazda has the front of the pinion is forward of the trailing arms pivot point at the frame,also the arms are paralel, This makes the arc that the pinion travels and the arc that the avel tube travels differant and causes susspention/drive shaft bind I have lots of experiance with 4 link set ups,we use them in big HP drag cars and pro street cars,they ride very nice and have great wheel control,I am building a high HP V8 powered 7 and I have moved the trailing arm pivot pionts forward abougt 12 inches on the lower and 9 inches on the top also the upper bar angles downward about ten degrees this puts the instant center at about the middle of the engine block,this will allow the suspention to plant the tire on accelation with out squating the ass of the car also it allows more rollin the suspention when one wheel is moved verses the other without bind

 

David Planakis

Seven on steroids

Posted
I know I am a little late in repling to this but the main problem with a ride quality in a stick axel 7 with high HP and more wieght than the normal 7 is that the rear trailing arms are to short,with a stick axel out of a big car like Mazda has the front of the pinion is forward of the trailing arms pivot point at the frame,also the arms are paralel, This makes the arc that the pinion travels and the arc that the avel tube travels differant and causes susspention/drive shaft bind I have lots of experiance with 4 link set ups,we use them in big HP drag cars and pro street cars,they ride very nice and have great wheel control,I am building a high HP V8 powered 7 and I have moved the trailing arm pivot pionts forward abougt 12 inches on the lower and 9 inches on the top also the upper bar angles downward about ten degrees this puts the instant center at about the middle of the engine block,this will allow the suspention to plant the tire on accelation with out squating the ass of the car also it allows more rollin the suspention when one wheel is moved verses the other without bind

 

David Planakis

Seven on steroids

It's been a while since I even looked at it, but my car came with ultra short 9" trailing arms. When I ripped the chassis apart, I lengthened them to I believe 14" (not 100% sure about that), but they are definitely located forward of the pinion.

 

Mustangs and Camaros suffer from this problem to a lesser extent when going over bumps, and they have more than twice as much sprung weight, so it shouldn't be a surprise that ride quality is not good, especially given the fact that we sit much closer to the rear axle than in typical cars.

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