SevenHeaven Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 The little red light, is on. (and always has been, since I bought the car) (assuming this is the 'check engine light?) Its a 1998 Zetec, in a Caterham 1.) Not sure it's desirable or necessary, but NYS seems to want this off for inspection... 2.) Getting two codes: 1451 (my ford guy says, its: fuel tank pressure HIGH) & 171 (lean condition) Can anyone tell me what these really mean, and perhaps a cure? 3.) Also getting three codes that have to do with a missing or nonfunctional auto transmission. (NO KIDDING, I've not found one either) I believe these codes are 750, 730, 753, but did not write them down. So should it, or can it be a goal to get the 'little red light off'? And even so, what is the 'lean condition' and High pressure? Thanks -geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Croc Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 (edited) Ah.....this is like asking what is the meaning of life. After a long time I am still confused by my engine codes. Eventually I just ignored them and found a way around the problems. I have a description on all codes for the engine and this is what it says for each: P0171 - System to Lean (Bank 1) The Adaptive Fuel Strategy continuously monitors fuel delivery hardware. The test fails when the adaptive fuel tables reach a rich calibrated limit. For lean and rich DTCs: - Fuel system - Excessive fuel pressure. - Leaking/contaminated fuel injectors. - Leaking fuel pressure regulator. - Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel. - Vapor recovery system. - Induction system: - Air leaks after the MAF. - Vacuum Leaks. - PCV system. - Improperly seated engine oil dipstick. - EGR system: - Leaking gasket. - Stuck EGR valve. - Leaking diaphragm or EVR. - Base Engine: - Oil overfill. - Cam timing. - Cylinder compression. - Exhaust leaks before or near the HO2Ss. A SHRTFT-1,2 PID value between -25% to +35% and a LONGFT-1,2 PID value between -35% to +35% is acceptable. Reading beyond these values indicate a failure. P1451 - EVAP Control System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction Monitors the canister vent (CV) solenoid circuit for an electrical failure. The test fails when the signal moves outside the minimum or maximum allowable calibrated parameters for a specified canister vent duty cycle by PCM command. VPWR circuit open - CV solenoid circuit shorted to PWR GND or CHASSIS GND - Damaged CV solenoid - CV solenoid circuit open - CV solenoid circuit shorted to VPWR - Damaged PCM To verify normal function, monitor the EVAP canister vent solenoid signal PID EVAPCV and the signal voltage (PCM control side). With the valve open, EVAPCV will indicate 0 percent duty cycle and the voltage approximately equal to battery voltage. When the valve is commanded fully closed, EVAPCV will indicate 100% duty cycle and a voltage drop of 4 volts minimum is normal. Output test mode may be used to switch output ON/OFF to verify function. Both 171 and 1451 come up on my car too (2004 Zetec SVT) - they are standard Ford codes. As far as I could tell after a lot of investigation plus enlisting the servcies of a trusted mechanic they arise because the change in the fuel system where excess fuel vapor goes to a carbon canister before (in my car's situation) being vented to the manifold to be burnt. This is why my car pops and backfires happily on lift off whereas a standard Focus is all quiet. The standard focus recycles the fuel vapor differently and it does not go the manifold like the installation on my Caterham. As for 730 to 753 you are right it is the lack of an auto box. - P0730 Incorrect Gear Ratio - P0750 Shift Solenoid A Malfunction - P0753 Shift Solenoid A Electrical I have not found a way to solve this one. I also get OBD errors for the air conditioning. I guess you have air conditioning fitted in your Seven? I did try a little OBDII tool to read the codes and reset them. However, when you plug into emissions testing equipment, the computer will not read correctly and so (in NJ) you will have to go for a short drive for the computer to reset itself. Once reset you find the codes have come back and so you cannot get the OBDII read via the stanard emissions testing software. For what it is worth, in my Seven the engine light only comes on during start up, it goes off immediately afterwards. However, I still have the engine code exceptions prevent the DMV reading the car via OBD II software. Possible solution - Can you ask NYS to use a tail pipe probe like they normally do with pre-OBDII cars? The Ford codes document is one I pulled together after hunting the web. It is a little SVT motor focused with some of the engine diagrams but the codes piece of the doc are standard Ford codes for all Zetecs. It is too big to upload here. if you are interested in getting it, PM me with a private email and I will email you directly. Edited November 10, 2009 by Croc thought of something else Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pksurveyor Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 I feel a lot better since my two Caterhams are doing the same thing. The Zetec has the the automatic transmission error code plus a few others. The little red light also comes on randomly. The SVT has been popping and backfiring since day one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SevenHeaven Posted November 10, 2009 Author Share Posted November 10, 2009 As for 730 to 753 you are right it is the lack of an auto box. - P0730 Incorrect Gear Ratio - P0750 Shift Solenoid A Malfunction - P0753 Shift Solenoid A Electrical I have not found a way to solve this one. For what it is worth, in my Seven the engine light only comes on during start up, it goes off immediately afterwards. However, I still have the engine code exceptions prevent the DMV reading the car via OBD II software. How is it then, if you get air condition and auto trans codes, that your red light EVER goes off. I thought they all had to be clear??? I also get OBD errors for the air conditioning. I guess you have air conditioning fitted in your Seven? I do not get the air conditioning codes.. BUT now that I think about it, my Caterham came with the standard air package. . The down side is; to turn it off, you have to mount this cumbersome tarp like thing over the car, attached with cheap snaps, and held up with a couple of really weak tubes, that I think came from some one's umbrella. It mostly dampens the "air conditioning" but still leaves major inlets of air, the same inlets, in fact where all the rain comes in, on less nice days. Turns out, in fact, that this 'anti air conditioning' option, is so handy, and so useful, and so much fun to use, that I leave it home in garage, where it keeps the dust off my tools. Thanks much for you help. I will very much like to have the code document. -geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Croc Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 How is it then, if you get air condition and auto trans codes, that your red light EVER goes off. I thought they all had to be clear??? I just sent you the codes document - let me know if it does not come through. It is fairly large.... As for your question in red....it is a damn good question. I do not know and had not considered it before you asked. It was built by a Caterham dealer in Florida for a original owner and suspect they found a workaround from their history in building these cars. I will go hunting around on the weekend now...you have me curious. Have you asked Caterham USA (Ben) if he has a workaround? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Croc Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 I do not get the air conditioning codes.. BUT now that I think about it, my Caterham came with the standard air package. . The down side is; to turn it off, you have to mount this cumbersome tarp like thing over the car, attached with cheap snaps, and held up with a couple of really weak tubes, that I think came from some one's umbrella. It mostly dampens the "air conditioning" but still leaves major inlets of air, the same inlets, in fact where all the rain comes in, on less nice days. Turns out, in fact, that this 'anti air conditioning' option, is so handy, and so useful, and so much fun to use, that I leave it home in garage, where it keeps the dust off my tools. I love it! :rofl: You had me sitting here puzzled for a while trying to work out what was a "standard air package." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
athens7 Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 I was told that the red light, which is not connected on an SVT Zetec, was the alternator light on a standard Caterham/Zetec installation (?). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catracer Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 7Heaven. Go to http://www.car-parts.com, enter year, Ford Contour, then select the checkbox for "engine computer". Look and see if you can find an ECU for a manual (MT) transmission and "standard emmissions". Install it and that'll take care of the Auto trans codes. It may also give you a bit of a kick in the butt since the calibrations from ford are a bit more agressive on the MT ecus. Don't screw with the low-emmissions ecus. These, I understand, were rather ramdom installs from the factory to help drive fleet MPG averages up (tricky eh?). It may, however, help to have one of them on the shelf, for sniffer tests, if required. I know of no solution the vapor canister code issue, and also suprised that anyone is seeing a AC code. FYI the check engine light (if installed) is energized by the ECU shunting to ground on ECU pin #2. My notes (a mess) show that ECU pin2 has a black wire with an orange tracer that connects to pin#5 on the 13 pin connector between the injection harness and the chassis loom. The mating wire is black with a red tracer in the chassis loom and runs to the check engine light on the dash (if installed). The check engine light would, in turn, have a +12V supply. Any intermittent grounding on the black/red or black/orange wires would cause the light to flash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SevenHeaven Posted November 11, 2009 Author Share Posted November 11, 2009 I was told that the red light, which is not connected on an SVT Zetec, was the alternator light on a standard Caterham/Zetec installation (?). I was told the SAME exact thing. (maybe). I was told it was the alternator light, and shows WHEN ON(red) that the alternator is working. (hmmm) No so sure about this, as its on even when engine not running!!! Ie, ignition on but not started.. So tell me, what is the red light really? And why always on? The other lights, are the turn signal (green) and High beam (blue) Yes it is supposedly a fully "standard Caterham/Zetec". (As per the Delaware Dealer...) Sorry, I forget his name. thanks -geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catracer Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 That's the old Britsh standard issue, "not charging" light (i.e. insufficient smoke ). It will be on with ign on, engine not running and at low idle when the alt ouput is not sufficient to maintain battery charge. It should be off at anything above a low idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
athens7 Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 My understanding is that the red light is a low voltage warning light. It is on when the ignition is on but the car is not running to show it is working (as on a "normal" car). It should turn off once the car is started, unless the electrical system voltage is too low. I have no awareness of the red light being used as a check engine light, but my SVT doesn't have the light connected. I use a Diablosport Predator handheld tuning programmer to check my fault codes, and I have a couple of evaporative emissions codes, a high fan speed switch code, an OBD II test incomplete code, and one or two transmission output shaft speed sensor codes. All of these are supposedly normal, due to shoe-horning a transverse, front wheel drive engine into a longitudinal, rear wheel drive car using a completely different transmission. I suppose it's a minor miracle that the engine management systems work at all, considering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SevenHeaven Posted November 11, 2009 Author Share Posted November 11, 2009 That's the old Britsh standard issue, "not charging" light (i.e. insufficient smoke ). It will be on with ign on, engine not running and at low idle when the alt ouput is not sufficient to maintain battery charge. It should be off at anything above a low idle. Oh dear, so to be clear, this little red light I'm seeing (inside the speedometer, next to the turn signal, and high beam light) is NOT the check engine light, but rather the "not charging light" ??? Hmm never thought to check, cause the car starts (one year now), runs at night with lights on etc. What exactly is the next step? thanks much -geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catracer Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 Hmmm. I was speaking of the earlier dash layout where there are separate indicator lights positioned in between the tach and speedo. Are the LEDs you are refering in the speedo or tach? What year is you chassis? Caterham used a lot of different instrument variants. I guess 2002 or 2003 started to see the LEDs in the guage. I do not know if they changed the function at that time. I'd be happy to compare with what I have in the shop, but all I've got in right now is a 1999 and a 2009 (and a couple racers that are different) You may want to check continuity between pin 2 ECU and the pins in the connector on the instument. Please disconnect the battery first! If you find continuity, that would be the MIL light. The color codes mentioned earlier may be of use. If you strike out there, check the two wires in the alt connector back to the guage. If continuous, then that is the charge indicator, If not, then I would guess the red light may indicate that the ignition switch is on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SevenHeaven Posted November 11, 2009 Author Share Posted November 11, 2009 Hmmm. I was speaking of the earlier dash layout where there are separate indicator lights positioned in between the tach and speedo. Are the LEDs you are refering in the speedo or tach? What year is you chassis? Caterham used a lot of different instrument variants. I guess 2002 or 2003 started to see the LEDs in the guage. I do not know if they changed the function at that time. I'd be happy to compare with what I have in the shop, but all I've got in right now is a 1999 and a 2009 (and a couple racers that are different) Is there an easy way to tell what year the chassis? I believe it was built in 1999 or 2000. The LED's are for sure in one guage (the right one as facing, but darned if I can for sure remember which is which right now) There are three Leds, blue=hi beam, green=directional, red= unknown. Both the previous owner, and Delaware dealer, said the red light was supposed to be ON, to "indicate alternator working" (but I could have miss heard...) I became skeptical, when I had those codes listed eariler, and am still UNABLE to get the idle reliably below 1500 rpm. More than likely I confused everyone (including myself) by asking about the check engine light, which I guess, does not exist. SO I guess, what I'd like to know, is is this red light really supposed to be ON? You may want to check continuity between pin 2 ECU and the pins in the connector on the instument. Please disconnect the battery first! If you find continuity, that would be the MIL light. The color codes mentioned earlier may be of use. If you strike out there, check the two wires in the alt connector back to the guage. If continuous, then that is the charge indicator, If not, then I would guess the red light may indicate that the ignition switch is on. NOTE: I'm a novice to this car, so: "pin 2 of ECU"? how do I get to that? "that would be the MIL light"? Meaning "the red light may indicate that the ignition switch is on"? This may be exactly what they were trying to tell me, but it didn't make sense then, and I would still love to be sure. Also would love to have it idle correctly, (and maybe warm up could be smoother too.) Thanks for all your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catracer Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 MIL is "Malfunction Indicator Light" aka check engine light. I really do not think that the MIL was ever fully implemented in the Caterham USA Zetec range. Early on during development, the wiring harnesses were speced with connections allowing such, but the light, I believe, was never installed...or only in rare instances. How 'bout some other owners comments about the red LED in the tach? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxologist Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 i always have CELs from teh auto ECU in a 5MT car. The red light is always on and I take that as the key is at least in the accesory position on the ignition switch. i do not have a CEL light in teh dash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glenntwincam Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 have cat/svt , red light in tach not connected. have red light on dash for ford/pats ( immobiliser in UK ). I test drove 2000 zetec dedion, red led in tach came on when car started and stayed on while running. cat/uk manual calls this light " ignition warning light " owner didn't know what is was for. except it was always on while car was running. as for codes I have the "usual". no MIL on dash, but if ecu says MIL is on you probably will not pass emission test. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pksurveyor Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 Lately my Zetec's red light within the tech has been on/off very randomly like when I lift the throttle suddenly. It has never done this before. It has never stayed on while running. The battery is fully charged and the car runs fine. On the SVT, the light only turns red during starting. The Caterham manual calls it the low voltage light, same definition as Athen7. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 (edited) Is there an easy way to tell what year the chassis? I believe it was built in 1999 or 2000... Yes. The 10th digit of the VIN indicates the model year on Caterhams. http://7faq.com/owbase/ow.asp?ChassisNumbers (scroll down) Edited November 12, 2009 by Sean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SevenHeaven Posted November 12, 2009 Author Share Posted November 12, 2009 Yes. The 10th digit of the VIN indicates the model year on Caterhams. http://7faq.com/owbase/ow.asp?ChassisNumbers (scroll down) My Vin: SDKLDKANS10022003 10'th digit starting where? it was first registered in 2001. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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