Trailering question

[MHKflyer52]

Hi Mike,

 

I have been following this posting and it sounds like you have it well under control and recived a lot of good info about towing. Only thing I did not read in the posts was about tire pressures for the trailer and the tow vehicle. You might want to consult your owners manual and make sure the tire pressures for both the trailer and tow vehicle are set to the recommended pressures as tire pressures being incorrect is the number one reason that trailer tires fail from what my tire dealer tells me. The second failure is from the sidewall of the tires on the trailer being abused when making turns from coming into contact with curbs and obsticles that cause brusing and seperation of the sidewall layers so becareful when turning.

As you found out when the kids steped out to advertize their car wah that it takes a lot more room to stop it also take a lot more room to turn just so you don't forget.

Becarefull and have fun at the track and post back your traveling experance with your new tow vehicle and trailer if you feel like it and maybe post some photos of your rig as it sounds like it is a nice setup.

 

PS: Here is a photo of one of the setups I have and tow all the time.

[jimrankin]

Since were getting down to the basics don't forget to pack the wheel bearings every couple of years. Trailers sit a lot and the grease gets a lot of moisture in it or hardens up depending on where you live and where you store your trailer. You can change a flat and move on but if you seize a race the whole axle is usually toast. Even though our car trailers don't get backed down into water a set of "bearing buddy" pressurizing grease fittings like you see on boat trailer is cheap insurance.

[Kitcat]

Speaking of trailering, here are a few lessons learned after a year:

 

Listen to your hitch-if it is squeaking like crazy, the tongue is most likely not properly loaded. Typically a frequent loud rattle indicates it's underloaded, a deep less frequent groan occurs if it's overloaded.

 

Make sure the ball is in the socket/receiver, not sitting on top (Oh yeah!).

 

Have 2 spare trailer tires (I have had 2 flats so far). And remember a jack that works and a lug wrench that fits

 

Ck trailer tire air pressure.

 

Don't leave w/o doing one complete walk around visual. Even if you know everything is packed and secured. I have spotted ramps unpacked, side door unlatched, blocks to prevent trailer from rolling still in place, etc.

 

Speaking of wheel chocks-spring for nice heavy metal ones. The plastic ones will just crush if you forget, and can wash away in a heavy storm.

 

Don't be in a hurry; you will be safer, get better mileage and arrive more relaxed. For a lifetime hotrod, this was a hard lesson. I was shocked at how many other people go the speed limit. Who knew?

 

Never wind your tongue up w/the trailer's emergency brake wire entangled.

 

Never drive with your emergency trailer brake line dragging-it will break apart.

 

Rotating the trailer's 2 safety chains 1-2x will keep them off the ground.

 

Keep your trailer brake battery charged.

 

Don't mistake reverse for park when you jump out to hook up your trailer.

 

Make sure everything is really secure in the trailer-loose items, say a semi-secure bicycle, can damage your car.

 

Remember to update your trailer license plate, and if you do, dont leave the updated sticker home as you leave for a 1500 mile trip to NJMP.

 

Have a spare key to the trailer door, locks, etc, in your tow vehicle, not 500 miles away at your house.

 

Try to never have to back up.

 

Other ideas/suggestions?

Edited July 2, 2012 by Kitcat

[DeanG]

+1 one the spare key - I arrived without a key once.

 

Does anyone have experience with the wireless backup cameras with an enclosed trailer?

[MBEARDEN]

Lights...check them the night before you leave...just before you leave...whenever you stop for gas. If you have an open trailer...throw them away every year or two, replace and rewire the whole system.

 

I always stop a few blocks from home...check the lights, chains and jump on the hitch to make sure it"s tight. If you have the Converta-a Balls on your hitch...make sure the pin is in line with the bumper so it can't slide into the back of the hitch...thereby releasing your trailer from the hitch...a friend learned this lesson the hard way when his trailer and two four wheelers got loose.

Edited July 2, 2012 by MBEARDEN
typo

[Guest Terry]

I am very envious, I drove one a year ago, what a great vehicle.

[slomove]

+1 one the spare key - I arrived without a key once.

 

Does anyone have experience with the wireless backup cameras with an enclosed trailer?

 

I have one, the cheapo version from the auto store. The camera is powered from the rear running lights.

 

It works with occasional flicker and is kind of useful for backing up so that you don't run over a pedestrian or fire hydrant.

 

But I had hoped it would also help as digital rear mirror while driving and for that it is completely useless. The fisheye lens reduces anything over 30 ft away to a fly speck and the tiny monitor is anyway too small.

 

I will see to get a better quality model with bigger screen and not-so-wide-angle camera.

[Kitcat]

Since someone else has posted on this general issue, I thot I'd update my previous comments.

 

Biggest lesson so far-A trailer is another vehicle, with all vehicle issues/problems: flats, license, insurance, storage, security, etc. And they are often old tech (bias ply tires wh/are easily punctured), wheel bearings that need to be repacked every 5K miles, drum brakes.

 

Yes, they are very handy to have but they do come with their own set of separate issues.

[Klasik-69]

+1 one the spare key - I arrived without a key once.

 

Does anyone have experience with the wireless backup cameras with an enclosed trailer?

 

Yes, I bought the "Swift Hitch" a few years back when my truck did not have a back up camera. It's a little better than no camera but nothing like the truck's built in back up camera. Now I use it on the back of my big trailer when backing up. Not great but better than nothing

[Klasik-69]

Kitcat listed every screw up I made. Were you riding with me ? Uncanny how you nailed every screw up possible. I got one better. My buddy put his Z06 in his trailer and drove 400 miles to Roebling only to find out when he got there that his car key(fob) was back home. Luckily, he left the window down on the car. He had to drive to the nearest Chevy dealer and buy a new fob, then wait over an hour to have re-programmed to the car. SO DON'T FORGET TO TAKE THE CAR KEYS TOO.

 

One more thing I would recommend is an IR handheld thermometer to check the tire temps on the trailer, and at the same time, check the temp on the wheel bearings. Every hour or two when you stop, depending on how much tea or coffee you've been drinking, check the temp. It only takes about 45 seconds and will tell you way ahead of time if you've got a bearing starting to go bad or a tire with an issue. As they say, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

 

On the subject of trailer tires, most are made in China now and that is a big problem. Goodyear has one brand still made in the US but it is hard to get and it is expensive. Buy radial trailer tires. Don't install car or truck tires on a trailer, it doesn't work very well and will fail sooner than later. Keep pressures up to at least 45 psi. If near the load limit, crank that up to 55 to 58 psi. Low pressure kills tires by increasing the temperature. If you have electric brakes and a brake controller in the tow vehicle, take the trailer on a dirt road to see how active your trailer brakes are. If your wheels lock up too soon or too easily, adjust it so it doesn't or barely on dirt. On good asphalt, the braking will be better and it won't tear up your tires. Also, you'll prevent jackknifing the trailer if the road gets wet. Don't be afraid to test it out away from traffic to make sure it's good rather than waiting until you're doing a panic stop in traffic.

 

Also, really big point that some have already brought out.............IT DOESN'T STOP AS FAST AS YOUR TRUCK ALONE. Allow more distance between you and the vehicle ahead of you. Also, other drivers can make your life miserable. They will pass you and then slow down in front of you. There is a temptation to drive up on their butts.................however as an old gentleman told me, you can't wrestle with a turd without getting poop all over yourself. Back off and live another day.

[drew...]

If you have the Converta-a Balls on your hitch...

 

Make sure you didn't leave the 2" ball in place when you hooked up the 2 5/16" trailer. It will make a lot of noise and the trailer can come off........ It's for that reason I won't tow the car trailer with the converta ball hitch anymore.

[Kitcat]

Bump.

I will add to things I think I have learned:

When possible pack stuff in your tow vehicle, rather than the trailer, to help keep it from being overwhelmed by the overloaded trailer.

Replace bias ply trailer tires w/steel belted radials as soon as possible.

Maintain a trailer mileage log and do the necessary maintenance per that log (grease wheel bearings). They sell an after-market mileage device that attaches to a trailer wheel and records distance.

Don't show up with 10' to spare to get your trailer out of storage after a winter of non-use. Twice I have found various locks rusted tight and impossible to get off in order to gain access to the trailer or the trailer hitch. Yes, with penetrating oil, a return home for a crow bar and a heat gun I was able to open it up. But way behind my already too tight schedule.

Edited June 11, 2014 by Kitcat