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Project Beatrice. (1999 Birkin S3)


Jackal

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Managed to get a good few hours in the garage today.

 

First the old wiring had to come out to make way for the new Painless harness. Seems a shame to do this all again, but with the wires cracking and bnot terminating because of corroded insulation, it's the best way to go. This will set me back a little, but I consider it good time to catch up on the other little things that need doing.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_8280.jpg

 

Then I figured I needed a better way to access the fuse panel, and relays was to build a drop down shelf. I started by getting rid of the old fuse tray and the heater inlet, then used a piano hinge on some aluminum plate to make the tray. I riveted the piano hinge to the frame rail at the front of the foot box. I will say that getting under this dash is a huge challenge, and I hope this is the last time I have to lay in the contorted positions I had to, to drill the holes.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_8297.jpg

 

Once the tray was in, I figured I wanted to use bolts to hold the tray upright. I do not want the tray to drop during spirited driving and causing an electrical problem, or worse yet injuring my passenger. I lined up the tray, and then riveted an L bracket to the fram under the dash. In this L bracket I used a couple Riv-nuts to allow the bolts to get a solid hold of the bracket. I have to get some 1/4" bolts for the tray, and I am considering butterfly bolts. Now I have plenty of room to mount the fuse panel, and will make another tray for the drivers side.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_8288.jpg

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_8290.jpg

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Finished the paint on the switch box. I got the switches mounted, but a couple of the guards are a little crooked. I left a little wiggle room to level them out, but I'm beat, and will sort out the guards tomorrow.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/bc5150e2.jpg

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Very neat looking job, can't wait to see "Beatrice" all in one piece...

 

 

Thanks. It's not perfect yet, but I'll spend more time on it tonight.

 

Tell me more about your switch panel. Where did you find the switch guards? I like it a lot better than mine.

 

Rgds

 

Jason

 

I got them from http://www.periheliondesign.com/switchguards.htm but I just noticed that Cbsonline.co.uk has them too.

 

On a side note, they are a little bit of work to lay out and get lined up correctly. Lots of holes have to be lined up, or they will be noticably off. I had pre-existing holes to work around, and the switch box is not even remotely square.

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Due to the weekends activities, and friends visiting, I did not get all the time I would have liked out in the garage. Unfortunately I only got over there for a short time yesterday to look at a couple odd little jobs while I continue to wait for the Painless wiring kit.

First of the odd jobs was the pedal extensions. I have been waiting to do these until I got closer to the fire up date, and since I have some time now, I thought I would get on it.

These should allow me to have the seat all the way back when I drive, and Kitty will only need to have the seat moved half way forward.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/b3e088f4.jpg

 

Another little annoyance has been that the snaps for the top have not been getting attached firmly enough for my liking. The snaps all had some play in them, and could cause rattles, or break off due to the flex. I had only put a few on before stopping to investigate the challenge, but like many of the little fiddly bits, I left it until now to get back to.

I found the problem was that the rivet gun was not fitting inside the snap fully, and left a bit of a gap between the rivet and the tip of the riveter. I ground down the tip of the riveter and replaced the few snaps already in place with ones much more firmly attached. Now I will put a little dab of paint on all the rivets to ensure they are blacked out. I know they won't be seen, but I'll know they stick out like a sore thumb.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/9497da9b.jpg

 

I also had another attempt at the dash layout. I layed the pattern out in Visio, and lined it all up based on measurements that I have taken. The small grouping of gauges is still about 1/8 inch too far from the speedo, and I'll line up another template today. I plan on taping it all down, then drilling the pilot hole first. Luckly I was able to find hole saws that are exactly the diameter's I need for the gauges, and shouldn't have to bodge the holes to the right sizes. (3-1/16, 2-1/8)

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/79aa0b1e.jpg

Edited by Jackal
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Its coming along nicely, the anticipation of driving her must be killing you..looking forward to the first group blat..:drool:

 

Very much so.

 

Kitty and I hope to make a dry run trip to Vancouver this year and hit the Vancouver Island Sevens for 2012. I also have a date with a GTR this year at the ASA regionals.

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Little more work last night.

finished installing the pedal extensions on the pedal box, and tentatively mounted the pedal box. I want to do a test fit with Kitty and see how she fits in the car. I am able to have the seat all the way back and access the pedals comfortably. Kitty should only need the seat half way forward.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/9895cb49.jpg

 

Just to give a reference as to how small this car is, here is a shot of my feet wearing semi chunky hicking shoes.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/caa9fec5.jpg

 

Second revision of the dash is printed and pasted in. I need to start drilling the holes, but I have a lot of tension over it. I don't want to be a mm off drilling into the new carbon fiber.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/25e1993e.jpg

 

.....and just a pic of where the car sits right now.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/a553bd87.jpg

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If you can fit it; make a copy of the pattern and fit it to the back side of the dash. Insure that the patterns on both sides line up. By doing this you can be sure that pesky tubes, brackets, hoses... won't be in the way.

 

Good luck and keep posting pictures.

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If you can fit it; make a copy of the pattern and fit it to the back side of the dash. Insure that the patterns on both sides line up. By doing this you can be sure that pesky tubes, brackets, hoses... won't be in the way.

 

Good luck and keep posting pictures.

 

I like to use rare earth magnets. They show me the clearances, and allow me to attach lengths of metal to simulate the depth of the gauges.

 

Thanks, I sure will.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Couple small projects in the works, but one big headache off my mind.

One thing I took from the meeting last weekend is that there will be a need for rescue and service tools on the road for the first year. The rear tub off the Birkin has some weird angles and spaces in it and just laying the jack in the tub spells certain disaster.

I decided to make a foam insert that I will carve out spaces for the tools and jack to rest in. I use 6lb foam found at hobby shops, and have found this to be plenty strong enough for these purposes. It is important to find a good medium that the foam will not stick to, and keep in mind this has to be the stickiest stuff you'll ever use. I like to use Petroleum jelly to keep foam from sticking.

 

The tub jellied....

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/0c716e71.jpg

 

The first pour of foam.....

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/34053d80.jpg

 

Double checking that the parts are still removable....

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/15354fce.jpg

 

Eventually there will be across the whole bottom of the tub, and I'll carve out the spots for the jack, and tools.

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Next up was putting a fender on for the cuts needed to the exhaust. A couple of shots with the fender on and the wheel half mounted. Of course, only half the holes in the fenders line up, and there will be a little drilling needed to get the fender properly mounted.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/6537b0a3.jpg

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/b2c736e5.jpg

 

The angle I'm looking for from the exhaust tip.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/7a89f558.jpg

 

The look I'm going for with a scrap bit of metal in the shop.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/47558951.jpg

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There was some work accomplished on the Alternator front as well. Bottom bracket is fabbed, and welded. It lines up well, and now I need to work on mounting the intake as the top bracket will mount on the last two intake bolts. Once done, both brackets will get powder coated to ensure they don't rust. The only snag so far is that the crank and idler pulley's have 5grooves, and the alternator pulley has four. This causes a little angle to the belt an may contribute to wear and tear. I plan on swapping the pulley on the small alternator, with the slightly smaller pulley from the big original alternator.

Big thanks to STI-Guy for all the help welding these brackets on his time, with only beer as payment.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/78143606.jpg

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/7b73355a.jpg

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/a9feb4c6.jpg

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Duane,

 

Nice looking bracket. Great welds. As you know, I mounted my alternator directly to the block but I prefer your bracket. I was able to swap out pulleys for nothing at a local alternator rebuild shop.

 

If you're utilizing the stock muffler, Dick Brink has a factory one with side turnout. Just a thought.

 

I love the foam idea. The Birkin rear trunk is a bit odd. It's also a pain to remove and get to the rear shock mounts. Please post some "after" shots when you finish.

 

rgds

 

Jason

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Duane,

 

Nice looking bracket. Great welds. As you know, I mounted my alternator directly to the block but I prefer your bracket. I was able to swap out pulleys for nothing at a local alternator rebuild shop.

 

If you're utilizing the stock muffler, Dick Brink has a factory one with side turnout. Just a thought.

 

I love the foam idea. The Birkin rear trunk is a bit odd. It's also a pain to remove and get to the rear shock mounts. Please post some "after" shots when you finish.

 

rgds

 

Jason

 

 

Thanks Jason,

 

I struggled a bit with the bracket, but came up with one using the old bracket from GBS online, and some cardboard templates.

 

My goal was to push it as far down as possible, while still being able to service the oil filter. once tacked, we wnsured the gussets were adding to the structure while not inhibiting the servicability. Then notched the bracket so that it will fit the alternator like a glove.

 

Next up is the top mount; hopefully that will be a little smother to deal with.

 

Thanks for the idea of the pulley swap at the alternator shop, I'll look into that straight away.

 

The trunk organizer has been on hold for a couple days now, but I should be back on it this weekend. I'll keep taking shots as it progresses though.

 

Now for a general poll. I have been searching for an intake gasket for Beatrice for a while now. I just need a paper gasket for the intake so I can start working on the top mount for the alternator. For those with the Zetec motors, and ITB's, what have you used for the gasket from the manifold to the head? Ford parts guys can't/won't search by engine type and flatly refuse to got the extra mile. Here's a picture of the one I'm looking for.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/06c8f093.jpg

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