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Project Beatrice. (1999 Birkin S3)


Jackal

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Managed to hit the garage again today.

 

I got to finishing the Idler pulley mount for the exhaust side of the motor. I only needed to get an extended bolt for the top of the water pump, and get a spacer for between the bracket and the pump. Thankfully there was not a whole reconfiguration of the bracket needed to make it work.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_8741.jpg

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_8739.jpg

 

I'm also planning out the top bracket for the alternator and needed to mount the intake manifold. Tomorrow I'll take the opportunity to set up the filter on the intake to cut the backplate. With the intake on I got to thinking about where to run the fuel lines. I have a 90 fitting on the far end of the fuel rail, and a 45 on the input. I'm planning on running the return under the intake back to the regulator mounted by where the ECU will be. There I'll 90 to the return hardline. A picture is worth a thousand words though.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_8747-1.jpg

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I got to laying down some more foam today as well. Three more batches got laid down to fill most of the bottom of the tub. I will add a little more as well to fill the back up all the way to the crease at the back of the tub.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_8717.jpg

 

Important thing to remember is to use lots of PJ to keep the foam from sticking to the tub. I am not sure it's needed, but I also take the smooth finish off the previously poured foam to ensure that the new stuff sticks to the old. I find the best tool for dealing with foam is to use a Multimax style tool.

 

Here is how it looks right this moment.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_8750.jpg

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Why are foam filling the rear? I never seen this done before.

 

I want to have a place for all the tools I'll need on the road. The foam is structural and can keep the jack and large tools from shifting during blats.

 

Assuming it works out, I should have space for the jack, socket set, screwdrivers, multimeter, locking lug key and the posts for the weather gear. When rolled up, I hope the full top will fit on top as well.

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I'll be doing my first engine pull ever on Sunday to install the CPS bushing. I am hoping to get it done in the one day. I have a hoist that wi9ll be meeting me there.

 

I'm looking for advice to be able to accomplish this. I think I'll be lifting the whole car up on tall sawhorses, and then dropping the motor out the bottom, working on it under the car, and then lifting it back up into the car.

 

If you want to join me on Sunday PM me and I'll get you the address. Beer (within reason) and Pizza will be included.

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I have stuff in my Birkin boot and dont hear it rattle on blats or have it move about but then I dont have any tyre gear as I dont carry a spare as it weighs too much, but then the foam is a intresting concept for what your trying to do with it.

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The foam os structural, and should give great support for jack, roof bars, tool kit, multimeter, spare fuses......

 

I have a few major projects with Bea on the go, so the foam is on the back burner. I have finished pouring it though, and it waits for carving.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/673338e0.jpg

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As many of you know, I had a tonne of work this weekend that I was really concerned over. The main project was the installation of the bushing for the Crank position sensor. I was really debating if I was going to pull the motor to separate the trans and flywheel to put in this part.

 

I decided that the best way to get the most reliable timing was by putting in the bushing, and using the stock location for crank timing. I am sure glad that I did. Some friends volunteered to help me with the task, and gave up an entire Sunday to do so.

 

Dropping the motor out of the car was easier than I thought. We used a jack under the motor and the engine hoist to haul the car into the air. The motor dropped out pretty easily. Once out we cracked the motor and trans to see what's what. Unfortunately we found that the bolts holding the motor to the trans were all just finger tight it seemed.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_8860.jpg

 

Opening the trans I was curious to see if the pilot bearing was in place, as through the help of this forum, research and follow up with the fellow who assembled the motor, I knew it was needed, and was assured it was there. It was not. :banghead: A couple quick calls, and a trip to Auto Value there was a pilot bearing put where it should.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_8857.jpg

 

Pulling the clutch plate, we realized that those bolts were also just barely on there. In fact the only bolts we found that were actually to spec was the flywheel bolts. Pulling the flywheel we got to the final destination for the days events. We mounted the bushing, and started to put everything back together.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_8864.jpg

 

Unfortunately we found that the collars that are in the bell housing that help line the the motor up to the bell housing were what caused the two bolts to feel like they were stripped. It was actually the collars that were rotating in the holes in the transmission. We settled on drilling the collars out and using a nut and bolt combo in those spots.

 

I am happy to say that I chose to go ahead and crack the motor because if not, there could have been some serious challenges that would find me later on. I'm a bit disappointed at the stuff I found, but I feel good that it got sorted out.

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Duane,

 

Great progress. In the end, pulling the motor isnt that big a deal until you get coolant, fuel and sensors to deal with. I had a similar experience with my pilot bearing and the engine to bellhousing bolts. Both are simple enough to fix if you catch them at this stage.

 

I assume you're going to utilize the stock flywheel? Its certainly simpler at this stage. Swapping out flywheels can create other larger issues such as bellhousing clearance, starter pinion throw, and clutch clearance. Ask me how I know!

 

You're on the right track with your fuel lines and pressure regulator. I'm happy to send you close ups of my lines. Budlight utlized a rigid line from the FPR to the return line and its a very clean install. You can find it here: http://www.usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2287

 

While you've got everything out, its a great time to install heat reflecive material on the inside of the trans tunnel. You also want to make sure the spedo drive on the T-9 is blocked off as you'll be utilizing an inductive pickup on the rear driveshaft. You might also want to take this opportunity to install a means to fill the tranny from the top cover. You can either weld a boss on the stock cover or pick up a Quaife reinforced cover with vent and drill/tap it for a fill plug. Way easier than trying to fill from the inside of the drivers foot well.

 

Good luck and keeps us updated on the progress!

 

Jason

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Wow! Duanne you are having quite the experience with your build. Good on you mate. Your patience and fortitude is a credit to you. Sorry I couldn't give you a hand, so glad you had some others who helped you out. Keep plugging away, soon be on the road. Steve

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Well, after four long weeks it finally came in.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/ce38d276.jpg

 

Everything I should need.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/f44272af.jpg

 

Tomorrow I start the install.:party:

Edited by Jackal
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I didn't make it to the garage, but I decided I had to get some work done today though. I found some good looking LED's in mounts at a local electronics shop. I like that they are ready to use on 12v systems, but I didn't like the way the wires came out the back. They are just 22 gauge wire without terminations.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/524e41cc.jpg

 

I set out to make them a little more robust. Male tabs were fitted, soldered and heatshrink on each connector. Then I shrunk on an outer layer of heatshrink and finally another bit os shrink to help with strain relief.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/5a4426fd.jpg

 

I like the detail work, but with all the crawling around yesterday, crouching over a hot soldering iron for an evening has destroyed my back.

Edited by Jackal
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Got out to the garage again last night and started getting in some anchor points for the harness. Just the odd bit of drilling and such.

 

I laid the rear wire pack out in the garage, and I'm amazed that they give you so much in the kit. For the rear they give you almost 20 ft worth of cable just for the rear. I was pretty amazed.

 

The only think I don't like about the kit so far is the way the bracket that hold s the fuse box mounts. It has a couple slide tabs, but I don't see any parts in the box that would act as a recievers for the mount.

 

No Pictures today, but tomorrow I should be able to reveal the dash as it is drilled out now. Tonight I also plan on installing the turn signal switch, and the wiper/washer knob.

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Just a few shots for the thread. The wiring is underway, and a shot of the mostly finised dash. The dash has three more switches to add; turn signal, horn, and wiper-washer.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/521bfa3d.jpg

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/d13556c9.jpg

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/176ed756.jpg

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The wiring mess has continued. I have not only cut two wires to length, the rest are coiled and hanging out of the car.

 

I have been using the wiring diagram from Slomove, and have been following it completely. I know there are some revisions to the diagram found on the Birkin yahoo page, but I will adjust the wires once I get them all in.

 

It has been a long process so far, but I think it will save me time in the long run. I am picky about the way the wires get run, so I am taking lots of time to pull them in, and pull them back out as I don't like the way they break out of the bundle.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/shot.jpg

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_9028.jpg

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_9023.jpg

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_9026.jpg

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I wanted to see the way the switch plate will fit in the car, and plan the wires to the panel. The switch plate will be the home for the headlight switch, high beam, hazard lights, and heated windshield switch.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/f4c19f78.jpg

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/c9da0975.jpg

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/4b90dfc4.jpg

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I won't be ready for this weekend, but I am hoping to be off to see Terry before the end of the month.

 

Where is the event? I may want to get of the garage at some point.

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