WestTexasS2K Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 Thanks RNR It shows exactly what can happen. I have pics of my braces somewhere just can't seem to locate them on my computer. John can get the idea from yours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimrankin Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 Made this with (1) 2" X 2" X 4 1/2" section of 1/4" steel "L" angle, about 30" of 1" X 1" X 3/16 wall square tube, less than a foot of 1/2" ID steel tube, two heim jounts and nuts and bolts as shown. I can't seem to find the fabrication photos but it was quick and easy. The 1/2" ID tube was for the spacers joining the upper and lower frame mounts into compression to share the load. Foto from the top is to show that it's pretty much out of the way of anything else you ned to do suspension-wise. I'll try to dig up the actual plan/fab I made for it and the photos but it's pretty straight forward. OK, just found some more photos so will attach a few. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WestTexasS2K Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 Hey Jim that looks great to. There are several ways to build them. Yours allows the use of the tie down hook. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimrankin Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 I,ve done a lot of track days and more burn outs than I care to admit since I installed this and it's holding up fine. Could have made it out of aluminum and would still survive. Even with the large tires I run the cat is just too light to put really serious torque loads on the brace. I also reinforced the front mount and replaced the two rear bolts with a couple of harder than stock units RNR gave me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimrankin Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 Should have read "the CAR is" instead of "the CAT is", being this is all on an Ultralight instead of one of those "imports". LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rss Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 here is a diff brace a la WestTexas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sevnn Posted October 23, 2012 Share Posted October 23, 2012 Diffs have the tendency to tear the sheet metal that hold the front of the diff up on the front. The rocking back and forth overtime will just fatigue that U shape brace that the diff is mounted in. I tore the front mounting bung twice in my S2KR. The first time I just recircled the weld around the bung. That held for a few years of hard road use until it tore through to the edge. I got 2x 3" washers with a 1" hole, hammered them to the shape of the housing, welded them on both sides of the housing and then made a nice rubber mount that better distributed the torsional force. It ran well until I started taking the car apart again... On the steering wheel location, my car is apparently the only one built with "tilt" steering. The cross beam is cut and reinforced. There is a sliding mechanism that holds a tie rod end. That mechanism can be loosed then moved up/down. I've found the best position is with the steering shaft going right through the middle of the main dash bar. I'll get pics posted of either setup if anyone is interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGTorque Posted October 24, 2012 Share Posted October 24, 2012 very interested in pics of the tilt wheel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MudHut Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 Digging this thread up from the grave of past posts. Most of these posts delve into the ratio and not the Limited slip portion of the rear. I've got a 4.44 VLSD and I believe it is at the end of it's usable life. Can anyone elaborate on the failure MO of the Subaru viscious limited slip differenial? Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGTorque Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 when mine failed it would spit the pass side axle out as soon as i would pull away. upon disassembly i found the fluid inside had turned to molasses. i have bought several rears, of various ratios, for as cheap as $50 off car-part.com and ebay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimrankin Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 There are a few of us with "tilt" steering. My steering column is above the chassis cross brace and the exact angle/height you want is derived by raise/lower of a large threaded heim joint at the universal end of the steering column. I have sat in another S2K with the low mounted wheel and agree that it didn't feel "natural" to me, too low especially if you have a small wheel. I don't have assisted steering and with slicks or large street tires it's a chore to steer if the cars not moving. not a problem on tyrack but it would be helpful to have assist or an even faster ratio rack if you do autocross and they put in a "box" of four 90 degree corners in about two car lengths. My S2K can do the corners faster than I can move the wheel LOL. With the right pads you can stop the car at speed with light pedal pressure, once you get some heat into the pads. I drag my foot on the brake all the way out of the paddock and try to remember on the street that I have a bit of lag when not warmed up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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