Exhaust ceramic coating question

[Sabbot]

I'm just about to install shiny new exhaust primaries as part of an engine swap and want to get rid of the asbestos wrap that I used on the last system to keep under hood temperatures partially under control. Does anybody have experience of ceramic coating and if so does it work well enough to prevent the cylinder number 1 primary from frying the alternator (I have 1/8' clearance between the two parts). Also any recommendations for companies in NJ or Eastern PA that could do a decent job of the coating would be appreciated?

Thanks

[blubarisax]

I did mine with Jet-Hot. Works well, but I just coated the exterior. They have a local shop in Hackensack that can take care of it for you. I think they ship them somewhere though.

[S1Steve]

Stu,

My old header was Jet-Hot coated 10 years ago, if it's prepared correctly it last a long time.

As Karl said, Hackensack is alot closer than coming down my way.

[MichaelD]

Caution on JetHot.

 

If you have modified your motor, be sure to let them know. Your temps may exceed the limits of their Silver coating.

 

I have a Zetec and the Silver coating burned off in ten days of driving. They said it was because I did not tell them it was a 216 hp Zetec. If they had known that they would have recommended the high temp Black coating.

 

FIW: Even burned it lowers the temps in the car. I have also covered the engine side of the foot boxes and the transmission tunnel. I also stuffed the trans tunnel with foam to eliminate the hot air flow into the tunnel.

[WestTexasS2K]

I found you need to cure the Jet Hot. It usually holds up well. It has worked pretty well on 240hp Hondas. The black holds up a bit better. I don't think it will protect the alt if its that close

[Sabbot]

Thanks to all for the suggestions, I'm assuming most of the coatings are external, does anybody know if it's practical to coat a new stainless steel system internally?

[jlumba81]

Can you put a small heat sheild on that cylinder 1 primary? Just use the header bolts to mount it.

[HOTTTCAR]

Ceramic coating is pretty much worthless as an insulator but it looks nice.

An aluminum heat shield works for me but 1/8" ....that will be difficult. Can you move the alternator even a little further from the exhaust?

[Off Road SHO]

A lot of today's stock heat shields are made of two layers of thin steel sandwiching a non heat conducting layer of fiberglass looking material. All three layers are extremely thin, so you may be able to search the junk yards for something that will fit.

 

Tom

[80-CU.IN.T]

I'm just about to install shiny new exhaust primaries as part of an engine swap and want to get rid of the asbestos wrap that I used on the last system to keep under hood temperatures partially under control. Does anybody have experience of ceramic coating and if so does it work well enough to prevent the cylinder number 1 primary from frying the alternator (I have 1/8' clearance between the two parts). Also any recommendations for companies in NJ or Eastern PA that could do a decent job of the coating would be appreciated?

Thanks

Jet hot, one of the most commonly known, or other types of commonly available ceramic coatings will not insulate enough to protect your alternator from heat in this application.

 

I Jet hot coated my 316 stainless header leading up to my single turbo 13B. Jethot used black 2000 exterior & an interior coating which I don’t know what. (Temps up to 1900F during dyno runs) The interior stated to flake in about 3 hours of total run time - that included break-in. It damaged my exhaust turbine blade beyond repair. I scrapped my manifold - couldn’t get the stuff out & made a new manifold.

I had the exterior of my new manifold coated with 2000. I didn’t have to pay for the coatings & If I did, I would. I only used wrap. (Wrap is so much better as an insulator) The Jethot 2000 was wrapped with ceramic type tape & held up very well - looked acceptable even when re-wrapped couple of times.

If you wrap, - Stainless steel only - preferable 316 - to last for a while or thicker 304 for commonly available Stainless. Carbon steel doesn’t seem to take the heat & breaks down faster.

1/8” is too close for anything other than wrap but if you modify the header tube, use a heat sheild.

Heat shielding should sandwich a heat barrier cloth fabric for best results 2 + layers if possible - asbestos preferred but getting hard to obtain.

If you used real asbestos wrap, I would be interested in purchasing some - most sources I know have dried up.

 

Link below might help for shielding material.

 

http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/productdetail/exhaust-wrap-and-header-heat-wrap/lava-wrap/37/19

[DavinceCode10]

I did my own with Jet-Hot. Performs well, but I just covered the external. They have a regional store in Hackensack that can manage it for you. I think they deliver them somewhere though. . . . . . . .

 

 

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Edited October 7, 2016 by DavinceCode10

[80-CU.IN.T]

Jet hot, one of the most commonly known, or other types of commonly available ceramic coatings will not insulate enough to protect your alternator from heat in this application.

 

I Jet hot coated my 316 stainless header leading up to my single turbo 13B. Jethot used black 2000 exterior & an interior coating which I don’t know what. (Temps up to 1900F during dyno runs) The interior stated to flake in about 3 hours of total run time - that included break-in. It damaged my exhaust turbine blade beyond repair. I scrapped my manifold - couldn’t get the stuff out & made a new manifold.

I had the exterior of my new manifold coated with 2000. I didn’t have to pay for the coatings & If I did, I would. I only used wrap. (Wrap is so much better as an insulator) The Jethot 2000 was wrapped with ceramic type tape & held up very well - looked acceptable even when re-wrapped couple of times.

If you wrap, - Stainless steel only - preferable 316 - to last for a while or thicker 304 for commonly available Stainless. Carbon steel doesn’t seem to take the heat & breaks down faster.

1/8” is too close for anything other than wrap but if you modify the header tube, use a heat sheild.

Heat shielding should sandwich a heat barrier cloth fabric for best results 2 + layers if possible - asbestos preferred but getting hard to obtain.

If you used real asbestos wrap, I would be interested in purchasing some - most sources I know have dried up.

 

Link below might help for shielding material.

 

http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/productdetail/exhaust-wrap-and-header-heat-wrap/lava-wrap/37/19

 

Just re-read my post from 1/1/13 & what I intended to say was I wound not purchase exterior ceramic coatings for heat retention. Use thermal wrap for best results - For visual appeal, ceramic coating is hard to beat.

 

I have used their 2000 & 1300 for different application both looked very nice & held up well. Jet Hot has a new 2500 which is suppose to be much more heat resistant than the 2000.

The 1300 was applied to my headers on my SCCA D spec Lotus Cortina & held up exceedingly well under racing conditions. Jet hot had just come out with the product at that time.

The 2000 on my FD3 RX7 - 430RWHP - 2800LBs with me in it beat to death with 1900 degree exterior exhaust manifold temps measured with a calibrated Fluke infrared lazar. (That was the exterior Jet hot 2000 temps before I wrapped them.) Many similar results with acquaintance tests.

I have also used & have had acquaintances use Swain Tec coatings - piston side skirt & crown application. Timing had to be reduced on some engines with top piston coating. Skirts held up well even though I don’t think it’s necessary. 13B rotor faces coated also but water injection would steam off the coating. Had to reduce timing also on the engine.

Hope this helps - Stile looking for Asbestos wrap if anyone has a source.

 

P.S. - Recommended after New Years overindulgence. Next morning (Ramos Fizz) I think that is spelled correctly - Grand Mother’s recomendation & used for generations - mine being the third.

6 oz Jin

6 oz 1/2 & 1/2 or whipping cream

6 oz Frozen concentrate lemon Aid - I don’t remember which kind but I remember what the can looks like

6 Ice cubes

Blend in blender

Add or subtract condense per self preference.

[Racing Mind]

I used Swain Tech on my last race engine. It actually works as opposed to many of the cosmetic ceramic coatings on the market. I used to have my personally generated data to support this but will have to locate.