danilo Posted March 28, 2013 Share Posted March 28, 2013 Might this all be simpler more directly effective, to insert a Mazda 2 or 2.3 litre drive unit. Mucho Mo' power and Emissions compatible from the get go... double bonus. Yes it's a taller unit but that's a problem that was long ago solved. Worth V little $ at a wreckers.. likely far less time /$$ involved than trying to convert the Fred Flinstone engine to passable current standards? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee break Posted April 4, 2013 Author Share Posted April 4, 2013 Darrell, Your package arrived. The carb and manifold look good (32/36 Weber on an aluminum manifold). I also got intake and exhaust gaskets from Pegasus. I need to make some corrections to the exhaust system. I'm looking for suggestions on setting idle mixture. My old school way is to adjust the idle mixture screw to achieve the highest vacuum level. Also, what adjustments to ignition timing. The standard setting is 10 degrees at idle. The distributor is a centrifical type. Thanks y'all. Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee break Posted April 5, 2013 Author Share Posted April 5, 2013 What torque value is good for intake manifold bolts to cylinder head on a crossflow? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darrell Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 Carl, Once you have it running and have the engine up to temp adjust the idle mixture screw for "best lean". If you have a tach / dwell meter it helps. Turn the mixture screw in 1/4 turn at a time until the rpm's start to drop and then turn it back out 1/4 turn...that's it. I would start with around 3 degrees initial advance on the timing. If you could take the car to someone who has a gas analyzer you can adjust it much more accurate. You may also need a PCV valve , about 10-15 dollars worth of parts. Darrell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bball7754 Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 The Wallage Crossflow book lists 13-15 lb ft for the intake manifold. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee break Posted April 6, 2013 Author Share Posted April 6, 2013 Darrell & Steve, Thanks, Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee break Posted May 3, 2013 Author Share Posted May 3, 2013 After much fettleing with correcting the mistaken addition of a catylitic convertor, I'm moving on to installing the manifold and carb Darrell has loaned me. The engineer in me wants to know more about what's going on with the mixture. I have looked at several A/F gage kits and I'm thinking it would provide me some readings on the how fuel is burning. Has anyone used a lamda sensor (A/F gage) this way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xflow7 Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 I've never used one, but I've heard only good things about the wideband lambda setups from Innovate Motorsports like this one: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm2.php I keep getting tempted to pick on up, but there are too many other things on the "to buy" list. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedwagon Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 Buy a broad band!! I have the Inovate lm-1 and the only problem is it is hard to read on the fly and drive too. You need an empty road. One of these makes tweaking a carb so much easier. And essential for turboed engines. Sure wish they were available in the 50s. There are some real good rite ups on the weber progressive on thesamba.com and here is one specific http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=386388 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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