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bball7754

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  • Location
    St. Louis, MO
  • Se7en
    Caterham

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  1. I purchased a Crossflow over the summer, and he had at least one other to sell. Believe it was a 711M. He is in SC, and can put you in touch if you’d like. But, I came across this post after I’d purchased the engine. Wish I’d seen it before - I could have gone and gotten the engine rather than paying for shipping. https://usa7s.net/ips/topic/13328-locost-parts-for-sale/
  2. I have no wisdom to add, other than sharing a few photos of my experience with insufficient octane. This happened after about three (maybe two) laps at NJMP. I had filled my fuel containers on the way to the track, and have wondered if the attendant didn’t fill them with Premium as requested.
  3. Did Caterham/Arch notch the chassis, or was that a modification made once kits reached the US? My recollection is that some of the first, if not the first, Zetec’s were installed in US cars. The lack of a body patch on the right side to cover where the Zetec exhaust would have been confirms to me that this always had a Duratec. Believe the early Duratec cars had the notched left rear fender as that was all Caterham made at that time. This may be a one of one Seven, with the combination of clam shells, Duratec, red interior, wagon wheels, and white piping on the tonneau cover.
  4. Hmmm…. first review I looked at on Pistonheads had multiple statements that the sidewall is “very stiff”. Not good for a Seven.
  5. Anyone ever use Nankang tires? Saw these on a Europa on BAT, and was pleasantly surprised to see they are available in 14”, both 55 and 60. https://www.nankangusa.com/passenger-tires/ns-2r-sportnex/ Steve
  6. I thought the rear fenders looked different. They seem narrower, more Series 1/2 like. They would look good with my clamshells, I think.
  7. Found the KitKat thread: Sounds like Redline is your best option. Steve
  8. I know Mike (KitKat) had a half-shaft issue, so I expect he’ll be around soon to provide info on his experience. As I remember, it was quite a challenge to find parts. Steve
  9. Just booked a VIP Suite, and will register shortly. New helmet arrived yesterday. Oil changed, brakes bled, new front pads. And I’ve squeezed in an econo $10 polish job. 😊 Targeting arrival around 2:00 on Saturday. Have been in touch with TJ to do a quick alignment, although I’ll run even if I can’t get it done. Steve
  10. What did you decide regarding the head gasket? Just curious. That photo that showed the small round opening sort of looked like a plugged channel, particularly thinking back to all the rust removal efforts you went through. Steve
  11. I needed a new helmet regardless, so that’s been ordered. Many racing organizations, including the VSCDA that I run with, are still accepting SA2010 helmets this year. But next year I’ll need a 2015 or 2020.
  12. After a long hibernation, my Caterham is back running. So……I’m now a possible. My belts are fine, but primary issue is a new helmet, which I’m working on. Need an oil change and brake bleed, but those are scheduled for tonight or tomorrow. And I have to accept that it wouldn’t get a fresh polish before the event. Steve
  13. Do you have a Pertronix ignition in the distributor? I had an intermittent issue with the Crossflow in my Mallock which got worse and worse. It finally cut out on track at Road America, and it wouldn’t start. I had a spare ignition, which I installed, and it still wouldn’t start. It had fuel, and electric from the coil to the distributor. I had read that the normal brown color rotors can be a problem. Pulled the rotor, and showed it to an extremely knowledgeable mechanic who prepares vintage race cars. He took a one second look at it and said it was bad, and was shorting out. I found a replacement red rotor at the track, put it in, and it started immediately. No issues since. Steve
  14. I also found that pumping slowly was the key, and agree 1/2 is about the max. However, I still have the occasional overfill, usually right after I’ve polished the aluminum.
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