Low Profile Car Jack for a CSR

[Red Duck]

I have fished around on the site and there's some discussion on this topic but just ahead of a purchase I thought I'd ask for updated advice.

 

On the topic of jacking up a CSR, with lowered floors, and then jack stands.

 

What success have you had with a low profile jack? I see the Harbor Freight and Craftsman ones and I guess you get what you pay for. But in terms of the height of the thing. They say they are 3 1/2 inches. Is that low enough? Is there anything lower?

 

And as for jacks themselves, what about the flat topped ones with like a hockey puck surface on them. They look appealing for putting them under a flat floor. I'm wondering if the jacks I have which has a U shape to go under and axle will be a problem on a flat floor?

 

Thanks

[JohnK]

I wrote, and there was some discussion on, a post with pics of my experience with a Craftsman jack that I felt was a very good jack for Sevens. I think the thread was "A particularly good floor jack for a Se7en...". I also and often use full-size floor jacks with 2 x 2 x 36 square tube between the jack and the chassis for longer term work, protection of the chassis tubing (just don't like to lift the car without distributing its weight more widely when the chassis tubing is so light), and general paranoia about having the car fall on me.

Edited June 1, 2013 by JohnK

[RGTorque]

my favorite jack

 

http://atdtools.com/7325

[Croc]

JohnK - your earlier thread is here:

http://usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?t=7937&highlight=craftsman+jack

 

I have the same (or very similar jack) and think it is brilliant for sevens. I like how the rubber pads protect the chassis jacking point. However, while it worked on a Caterham with regular floors it is too high for my current CSR with lowered floors if I want to jack from the side. You are left with a small chassis tube lip (1.5 inches) on the side of the tub with which to work with. Works well under the chassis at the nose. My adding a diffuser to my rear end makes jacking there rather interesting but even removing the diffuser I am unable to get under the diff with this jack unless I put the rear wheels up with jacking wheel dollies.

 

Ideally with the CSR I would want a 2.5 inch entry height jack instead of a 3.5inch entry height jack with a rubber jacking pad for protection. Definitely no U shape jacking pad as most of the jacking I do is with a level surface being jacked with the exception of the diff. They are out there - Roman has identified one and I have seen others for sale from time to time. There is a thread on the CSR forum about jacking points in a CSR.

Edited June 2, 2013 by Croc

[a.moore]

I honestly don't know if "you get what you pay for" really applies to jacks anymore. Almost all of these seem to come out of the same factory - the only difference being colors and price tags. I refuse to pay twice as much for the same product just because it says Craftsman.

 

I've had the HF 1.5 ton aluminum jack for several years. It has seen quite a bit of use (several times a week) and it hasn't let me down yet. 3.5" has worked fine up to this point. The only issue I could see would be with a really low track car.

 

I just added the 2.5 ton steel jack to my collection to lift the truck. It is as low as the aluminum one but has a higher load capacity and 6-7" more lifting height. The downside is that it weights twice as much so it isn't nearly as portable.

Edited June 4, 2013 by a.moore

[speedwagon]

think that this has been mentioned here before, but I have a horrible freight motorcycle aluminum jack that is generously rated at 1500lbs but with the extensions off it will lift either end but you do need a cross pice to contact the frame rails and because rhe jack platform stays level were as the car frame tilts as it lifts, I have actually lifted the whole car in the center to put it on the roll-around but that is right at the jacks limit and you have to be careful with the f/r balance.

[powderbrake]

I have an aluminum floor jack from Harbor Freight, and it works well.............................BUT..................... It is the fast lift or "racing" jack and that's fine for a seven........BUT....... It is VERY DIFFICULT to control the drop, as it is too fast.

 

When I lift my Tahoe and am lowering it I have to be very careful, it just wants to drop too quickly.

 

If I had to do it all over again, I'd probably buy a slower lift jack.