Wheel Alignment for Radial Slicks on Track Caterham

[blubarisax]

I'm sure someone out there knows something about track alignment specs. I'm taking the car in for corner weighting, and plan to have the alignment checked as well. I've been using the standard settings from the build manual, but there is probably more I should know.

 

My setup is:

 

Caterham Superlight SV

Michelin radial slicks 20/54-13 and 24/57-10

-1.5 Degree Ears

Nitron 3-way dampers

 

Thanks!

[BlueMax]

I would say that the setup would be different for each track; IE LH turns versa RH turns. Taking tire temps consistently across the contact patch all while trying to keep the tire from blistering is what you’re trying to achieve.

Edited August 13, 2013 by BlueMax

[blubarisax]

Thanks BlueMax, I do understand the variation in tracks, just looking for a good starting point. Both tracks at NJMP (my home tracks) are made up of mostly left hand turns.

[Klasik-69]

I run mine almost exclusively on tracks (SCCA & NASA) and have experimented a bit to see what works best. I first went agressive with -2.5 camber on the front running on the spec miata wheels/tires (205-50 15 Hoosier SM6 tires) and it did OK. I read a lot of stuff on the British sites about wheel alignment since they make these cars dance whereby we just dabble. I came to the conclusion that the guys who race and do so with some success don't run that much camber. So I backed mine off to -1.2 degrees and set the toe-in neutral. Also, I went back to the 13" wheels which made a huge difference. I was able to shave my previous track times a good bit with a drop of over 4 seconds at Talladega GPR and 5 seconds at Roebling.

 

I saw the mention of RH vs LH track layouts and I don't think it plays very much either way, unless you have the skills of Massa or Hamilton from F1 and have the HP to match, I doubt that you would notice much either way. As you well know, the turns aren't a problem with a 7, you can outrun anyone in most anything there. The real bugger is the straights. And if you throw in some toe-out for faster turn in on the turns, you'll pay the price on the straights with more friction, and that is not where you want to sacrifice IMHO.

 

Incidentally, the Caterham assembly guide mentions calling them for track setups. They have the alignment setup for street use. Mine is viable to either use and I'm not having any issues whatsoever. Could I be faster ? Yes, but the car is not the limiting factor.

[Croc]

Karl - set up on a customized Caterham is not going to be found in the Caterham manual. I would start with a good corner weight. Make sure they set it for a single driver - I thought mine was until I set my fastest laps tag teaming with JeffH with a passenger. For the alignment you are running a similar wheel and shock set up to Joachim? Why not email him and see what he is running as a starting point and use that as a base. I have never set up a car without trying it and tweaking a little further. As for RH and LH tracks, yes in Nascar or competition, yes you do this. But for us running at a handful of tracks, I would go for a universal set up. Also NJMP has plans for modifying things to allow the track to be run both directions - maybe a few years down the track.

[blubarisax]

Mike,

 

I did email Joachim, but he is on vacation this week. I have a good shop to do the corner weighting and check to make sure the alignment is not out of whack.

[James A]

On the race car we bought -2 degree De Dion ears and set the front at -3 degrees. Tire wear is good and we like the way it handles. Oh we settled on front toe of 1/16 toe in, rear toe is 0 as set by the De Dion ears.

The recommendations to corner weight the car is a very good one, do it!

Jim

[Kitcat]

And be in the car when all this happens, or have your shop add equivilent weight to the driver's side. Also have the seat where you typically sit, if it is adjustable.

[MichaelD]

Karl,

 

I sent you a email with a PDF of Superlight settings.

[blubarisax]

Thanks Michael