subtlez28 Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 Hmm.. Again I wish you had built yours first! Good find on the shifter. How did you find it, since it isn't on the site? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted November 4, 2014 Author Share Posted November 4, 2014 Hmm.. Again I wish you had built yours first! Good find on the shifter. How did you find it, since it isn't on the site? I had found an old thread on ls1tech here: http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1525162-tremec-magnum-t-56-shifter-relocation-assembly.html, then I emailed Sikky and they confirmed that they still sell them. They don't have them on the website due to all the different T56 configurations; they don't want people to order the wrong part. Note that the currently shipping unit has been completely revised from the previous version, which had issues with leaks and broken bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted November 7, 2014 Author Share Posted November 7, 2014 Flying home today, thank goodness. Been buying parts all week: catch cans, alternator, hoses & hose ends for fueling & cooling, rotors, misc cooling fittings, driveshaft loops, and might finish up my ordering frenzy with the parking brake & calipers. I've been trying to wait patiently for Brunton to make progress on a driveshaft brake, but I don't want to wait any longer. Also...Correction on the harness & ECU: OEM wiring harness? I'm told that's the GMPP ECU kit (19258270), which [hopefully] should play nicely with the GMPP crate motor I plan to buy. I had *assumed* it was the GMPP harness & ECU (or that's what I remembered from a previous conversation with Brunton), but that's not what arrived in my kit. The harness is from Current Performance Wiring, and the ECU is an E38 (12633238). I discovered this when deciding how to stimulate the T56 Magnum's reverse lockout function. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the Current Performance harness has both Reverse Lockout & Reverse Lamp pigtails. And thx to jevs for telling me to check the harness :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 (edited) Finally got around to fitting a rotor & brake pads and found that I needed to use a file to round off the edge of the front mounting ears on the caliper brackets in order to allow the pads to slide fully into the caliper. The one on the right has been adjusted, and the one on the left still needs correcting with the affected areas circled in Red. I notified Brunton about this so that they can make adjustments on future pieces. It's worth mentioning that my car has the 6-piston front calipers, and this issue may or may not exist on the cars that have the 4-piston front calipers since those use a different bracket. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27900&g2_serialNumber=2 Started assembling the cooling system hoses. I'm using Aeroquip Startlite hose & Race Flux fittings. The Race Flux fittings are cheaper than Aeroquip and also carry a 1 yr warranty just like Aeroquip fittings. Once I finish the AN16 hoses (waiting on the hose to show up), I'll do the steam vent hoses, and lastly, the PCV/catch can hoses. I also did a test-fit of the hood with my dual catch can setup in place, and I'm happy to say that there is plenty of clearance everywhere. With the catch can on the left, there is also still plenty of clearance to the AN elbow on the water pump to unscrew the bottom of the can to empty it. I may make a little heat shield for the can on the left since it's just a few inches from the header. The one on the right has more like 6 inches of clearance to the header. The catch cans are Elite Engineering's gen 1 can (b/c it's slightly smaller than their gen 2 can, and I didn't want to risk them not fitting). The catch can brackets are the "hockey stick" bracket from Elite Engineering. I bought them from JDP Motorsports for $150 ea, and they are listed as being used for a 2005-2007 LS2 Corvette. Also, the way my hose routing will work, I needed 4 right angle barb fittings, and since each catch can kit only comes with 1 right angle and 1 straight fitting, I bought 2 right angle fittings locally and tossed the straight oneshttp://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27892&g2_serialNumber=3 Mounted the Moroso coolant overflow tank using some 3/8" thick nylon spacers that I found locally. I couldn't figure out how to mount the thing without using the spacers because the mounting bracket would either contact the steel rocker bracket or the rocker. The way I have it, there is about 3/16" of clearance to everything. There is also plenty of room for the rocker's nut & bolt, contrary to what the angle of the picture would have you believe. Don't ask me why Moroso includes a teeny little ball valve on this tank (that's the fuzzy silver & red thing in the picture); I don't believe it gets connected to anything. The hole just below it is the vent hole, and Moroso put it there; I didn't drill it. Interestingly, this tank appears to be entirely molded plastic or other composite. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27901&g2_serialNumber=2 Next on the list is to finish the cooling & pcv hoses, then move to seats, parking brake, and fuel hoses. Edited November 13, 2014 by toedrag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted November 14, 2014 Author Share Posted November 14, 2014 Forgot to include this earlier today: Regarding the vacuum line from the brake booster to the intake manifold: The IM has a 1/2" barb, and the booster has a 3/8" barb. I was poking around Autozone and found their in-stock rubber PCV Elbows. Dorman 46017 seems to be 3/8" on one end and a little bigger than 1/2" on the other. Even though it's a little big on the 1/2" side, it still seals fine with the clamp. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27889&g2_serialNumber=2 After adding the 1/2" to 1/2" barb & some 1/2" hose, it's done: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27896&g2_serialNumber=2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted November 14, 2014 Share Posted November 14, 2014 Did you happen to notice that Brunton seems to have a shut off valve on this hose? I wondered what for, but I have not had time to ask yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted November 14, 2014 Author Share Posted November 14, 2014 Did you happen to notice that Brunton seems to have a shut off valve on this hose? I wondered what for, but I have not had time to ask yet. I did. I figured it's just to have that good 'ol manual brakes feel, but I didn't bother to ask. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted November 14, 2014 Share Posted November 14, 2014 Did you happen to notice that Brunton seems to have a shut off valve on this hose? I wondered what for, but I have not had time to ask yet. I did. I figured it's just to have that good 'ol manual brakes feel, but I didn't bother to ask. Maybe to regulate vacuum? :rofl: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted November 14, 2014 Author Share Posted November 14, 2014 I suppose I should also add a check valve. Yes/No? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted November 14, 2014 Author Share Posted November 14, 2014 I suppose I should also add a check valve. Yes/No? I went ahead and ordered a 12mm check valve from UPR Products off ebay (p/n H5032-28). I'll just replace my 1/2" barbed union with this little guy. It also prompted me to look into a check valve on the fuel line, and thankfully, the Walbro GSL392 fuel pump has an integrated check valve in the outlet. The UPR check valve: http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/m/mGmkxVRySXQ9iziHOyRqtuQ/140.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted November 14, 2014 Share Posted November 14, 2014 If we need that, I wish I would have known. I saw those on the site I just ordered fuel lines from yesterday for only $4.99. Too late now, I would have to pay shipping again which makes it a little more than eBay. They shipped fast. http://www.anfittingsdirect.com/an-adaptors-for-stainless-steel-line/aluminum-one-way-check-valve-12mm-barbed--p-9583.html?osCsid=b7ba4be32f1f5b826c0b650035dd4d78 I was thinking that elbow you used was an actual PCV valve. I guess it is just a 90º hose? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted November 14, 2014 Author Share Posted November 14, 2014 If we need that, I wish I would have known. I saw those on the site I just ordered fuel lines from yesterday for only $4.99. Too late now, I would have to pay shipping again which makes it a little more than eBay. They shipped fast. [/url]http://www.anfittingsdirect.com/an-adaptors-for-stainless-steel-line/aluminum-one-way-check-valve-12mm-barbed--p-9583.html?osCsid=b7ba4be32f1f5b826c0b650035dd4d78 I was thinking that elbow you used was an actual PCV valve. I guess it is just a 90º hose? Maybe call 'em up and add it to your order? Looks like shipping from them is $5.99 for it, so I'm only out $1 vs the shipped ebay price Yeah, the Dorman 46017 is just a rubber elbow, no integrated valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted November 14, 2014 Share Posted November 14, 2014 (edited) They shipped a couple hours after I ordered, which is a good thing, but too late to add stuff Are you sure we need a check valve? I don't see one on the factory diagram. I looked up a 96'. I could not remember exactly what year the Miata booster is. I don't see one on the lines diagram. I wonder if it already has it built in, or what....? I don't see one on the Brunton setup, just that ball valve. http://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=305251&ukey_make=995&ukey_model=14360&modelYear=1996&ukey_category=20230 I don't see anything on the white car. Just a hose. Looks like a 2010 Camaro SS has it built on the booster. I was wondering if it might have a check valve on our motor fitting, but judging by this, no. Edited November 14, 2014 by jevs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted November 14, 2014 Author Share Posted November 14, 2014 They shipped a couple hours after I ordered, which is a good thing, but too late to add stuff Are you sure we need a check valve? I don't see one on the factory diagram. I looked up a 96'. I could not remember exactly what year the Miata booster is. I don't see one on the lines diagram. I wonder if it already has it built in, or what....? I don't see one on the Brunton setup, just that ball valve. http://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=305251&ukey_make=995&ukey_model=14360&modelYear=1996&ukey_category=20230 I don't see anything on the white car. Just a hose. Looks like a 2010 Camaro SS has it built on the booster. I was wondering if it might have a check valve on our motor fitting, but judging by this, no. Definitely no check valve on the LS3 intake manifold (just checked using a few breaths in & out => no restrictions). The booster...not sure, but I doubt it has one built in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted November 14, 2014 Share Posted November 14, 2014 (edited) Hmm, after some reading it seems that people are saying the Miata hose has a check valve integrated into it. That must be why it is not shown as a separate part. One guy replaced the hoses with some fancy open ones and then the pedal was pressurizing and pushing his foot back or something. Found this picture where someone is indicating the location of the check valve in the hose. So, I think we do need one. I still wonder what Brunton does. Buying the Miata hose might solve the problem of the check valve and the 90º elbow though. It might cost more than buying the parts though. Do you remember what year Miata our boosters are from? I am not near mine to look at it. What size and type of hose are you using for the booster? I need to order some. Edited November 14, 2014 by jevs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted November 14, 2014 Author Share Posted November 14, 2014 (edited) Interesting. My booster is from a 1995 Miata EDIT: I think I like having a separate check valve. The Mazda hose isn't likely to be long enough, so you'll still need another barb union and more hose. Edited November 14, 2014 by toedrag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted November 14, 2014 Author Share Posted November 14, 2014 I have 12" of 1/2" ID heater/coolant hose from Autozone, and some of that will be trimmed once I add the check valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted November 14, 2014 Share Posted November 14, 2014 (edited) I have 12" of 1/2" ID heater/coolant hose from Autozone, and some of that will be trimmed once I add the check valve. Do you think 12mm ID silicone vacuum hose would fit over the engine and booster fitting (50 miles away from my car right now at work )? I found a 90 degree silicone elbow for $3 and the line is less than $10 shipped for 10 feet. I could put the 12mm barbed check valve between those and it would look pretty clean and last forever. Oh, Brunton responded about the ball valve, and yes that was just so that customer could adjust the level of assist. They don't use it on their car. They did not say about using a check valve, so I asked again. On the car with the ball valve, I don't think the ball valve would work very good with a check valve though. When your not using the brakes, the vacuum would still build in the booster and hold until used even if the valve is only set to a small opening. It would just take longer to build the max pressure. Edited November 14, 2014 by jevs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted November 14, 2014 Author Share Posted November 14, 2014 (edited) Do you think 12mm ID silicone vacuum hose would fit over the engine and booster fitting (50 miles away from my car right now at work )? I found a 90 degree silicone elbow for $3 and the line is less than $10 shipped for 10 feet. I could put the 12mm barbed check valve between those and it would look pretty clean and last forever. The IM fitting is 1/2" (13.2mm as measured), so it may work on that end. But, the booster's fitting is only 3/8" (10mm as measured)...if you could find a silicone reducing elbow, that could work. (The Dorman 46017 is a reducing elbow). Edited November 14, 2014 by toedrag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted November 14, 2014 Share Posted November 14, 2014 The IM fitting is 1/2" (13.2mm as measured), so it may work on that end. But, the booster's fitting is only 3/8" (10mm as measured)...if you could find a silicone reducing elbow, that could work. (The Dorman 46017 is a reducing elbow). Good info. I did not catch that you were using the elbow for the reducing purpose at first DOH!. Trying to work at the job and get car parts sorted at the same time, so I skim through things fast sometimes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now