ianashdown

Looking way too far ahead I’m thinking about the final color, finishes and parts for my ‘61 Lotus 7! The car was originally white with red trim and will be that again. I’m still uncertain how many of the aluminum panels will need to be replaced so the white paint could be all panels, if I can re-use most of the panels, or if I have to replace them, only the fiberglass will be painted white, the panels will be polished. The question of wheels is still up for discussion. Silver Minilite style alloy wheels is one option, and the other is silver painted wire wheels, which I think look very ‘period’, which is the style I’m aiming at for the car. My car has the Standard 10 axle with drum brakes so I’m wondering how the splined stub-axle is attached. I assume the wheels used are Triumph Spitfire which should be an easy conversion for the front, I’m just not sure how it is best done at the rear so it looks authentic. Any insights appreciated! Ian Here’s a good looking example.

You will need to explore the type of welds on the original chassis and the repair section. If either part are Arch built it will be Nickel Bronze Brazed. You will not be able to TIG close to any Brazed joint. Nickel Bronze is a low temperature repair, and in my opinion ideal for this type of repair, but there are relatively few in the US who can do it in the way Arch does. I did a similar repair to a Formula Ford many years ago and it is quite difficult, given the hand built nature of these chassis. There are small dimensional variations. Be very thorough checking, measuring, etc before you cut. A basic jig or fixture would be a very good idea. Good luck! Ian

Thank you!

The other one from Mike Brotherwood does also fit perfectly. I actually like the straight levers appearance better, but I’m not sure how it would work unbent. I assume it can be bent fairly easily. I had a plan to keep both until final build, but if you are hurting for a lever I’d be OK letting it go. The price for this was not inexpensive however, I’m in to it for $463. It that can work for you, then great! If not, plan A lives on. All the best, Ian

You just reminded me of the essence of the 7! Its also the cheap way, much like ACBC! Ian

Things are moving ahead slowly, mostly due to very long work hours, but there is minor progress. I'll post some pictures of the finished Screen assembly soon. One decision I have to make it whether I should fit a heater or not. The car did not come with one, probably due to its, low level, competition past. A few things, handbrake, wipers, heater (it was in Arizona!), hood frame etc., were clearly jettisoned for weight savings. I'm in Southern California and I do not think lack of heat will be my issue, probably the opposite, but should the heater be fitted for authenticity? Was it possible to option these cars when ordered, without a heater? My 1956 MGA, long gone, was a California car and came from the factory without a heater, just a nice cover plate, so it was not unheard of in 'the day'. I appreciate any thoughts and opinions. Of course, if the answer is "yes, it should have one", you know the next question . . . where can one be had? Thanks! Ian

Quick update of the Handbrake saga. The Caterham lever seems to fit perfectly. I just bolted it up finger tight but it fits like it was made to go there, and the ratchet and release mechanism works well. Now it’ll just come down to finding a cable, but that’ll be a couple of years down the road. Ian

Birkin Project https://www.copart.com/lot/79700493/2010-lotus-coupe-ca-sacramento Was any member here the previous owner of this Birkin? Just wondering if there is any more information available. Thanks, Ian

You make some really good points! I especially like Bear Claws, my Saturday morning breakfast of choice, and they all different 😋😜. Sorry, couldn’t resist! I guess this it what you get when the cars are all hand built and with a variety of spec’s. Mine was originally a BMC powered car, but the 105E was fitted in ‘64 or ‘65, it too has the Triumph shifter extension. My tunnel seems to have been made to run with the front part open, the edges are nicely rolled, but a Fwd cover was supplied although I’m not sure how exactly it will fit. I guess I’ll keep both until I get to a more complete assembly stage; one of them will fit! Thanks, Ian SoCal

For some reason I thought it was bent downwards! I’ll do a test fit tomorrow. Ian SoCal

Anyone on the forum buy this 7 from Copart? Ian

I recently found a Caterham Handbrake Lever for sale in the UK, it looked authentic so I bought it and had it shipped to California. It does appear to be an original lever, but I believe the bend is in the wrong direction. I suppose this could have been for a LHD Caterham. I didn't even consider that possibility! How easy might it be to reverse the bend so it works on my RHD car? I have the Brotherwood Lever which fits and seems like it would work, although it is straight and might need a little bend too, or should I try to make the 'real' one fit? An unexpected curve-ball to be sure! Ian SoCal

Looks about right! Ian

I did measure and make a CAD model of the handle for any possible future need. I didn’t think to check out Moss, I’ll do that today - thank you! Ian

My Handbrake lever from Mike BROTHERWOOD arrived recently, but unfortunately suffered some abuse in transit from the UK. The plastic handle, some 70 years old and a bit brittle, broke into 3 pieces. I’m sure it was just flung around as the package was quite small and light. I ordered some black CA adhesive (superglue) and bonded the parts back together, while trying, not entirely successfully, to not glue my fingers together! The result is not perfect, but by the time I’ve dressed it up a bit, it will be. The lever fits the chassis, and and will give an authentic, if not original, appearance. Slow progress, but progress it is! Ian

Hi, Various places unfortunately! If it’s a ‘Universal’ chassis it’ll be on the lateral tube under the passengers thighs. I think Arch chassis are by the master cylinders. Ian

If you do, please report back with your findings, opinions and hopefully some photos. Ian

Does anyone know anything about the 1961 Lotus 7 currently on Copart? It lists the car as SB1039. It appears to be a ‘real’ 7, but has suffered a few previous owner mods. Ian

Message sent. Ian

I have one on the way from Mike Brotherwood that he reconstructs from some donor lever. I’ll post some photos once it arrives. Ian SoCal

Lotus or Westfield? How early do you think? Ian

I am only going by the holed drilled in the chassis side rails. I’ve never seen this car assembled. Also, just for information purposes, this is a 105E car and it is a pretty small engine. Ian

If this question was directed to me, I’m not able as my car is a bare frame and a pile of parts. Hopefully others will contribute. The Caterham balance you mention seems like a good target. Ian

Has anyone here mover their engine rearward from the standard position? My ‘61 appears to have some ‘extra’ holes in the lower chassis side rails about 7”-8” rear of the original pair. Was this a mod done on competition cars? Is it considered that the weight distribution is too much forward weight as standard? I even have a short driveshaft so this seems be a real mod! Im just having trouble understanding the motivation. Ill be very interested to hear your thoughts. Ian

I have a strong suspicion that this company may have done the tuning that is evident on the 105E engine that was in the 7. The 120E was a planned upgrade apparently. I have a nice Cosworth cover that I plan to use when the 105E engine goes back in the car so this one might become a wall ornament. It is cool to piece the history together though.