sdaddy

Sorry if you already know, basic troubleshooting generally begins with checking good spark at the right time at the plugs. Once that is confirmed, start on the "fuel" part of the equation. For more specific advice with injection from the group, I suggest posting details about which system is on your 7.

My '03 Birkin's steering wheel is ~300MM outside diameter. I'm thinking of going to a larger size for comfort and to "unblock" the view to the tac, speedometer and oil pressure gauges. What size steering wheel are others running? Any recommended sources for new or used Momo or similar flat-dish wheels at a reasonable cost?

Just received the "new" plate...

I have a Massive head with stage II cams and am extremely happy with the output. Haven't measured it on a dyne yet though.

Wow, what a fantastic car! I'm sure it will go quickly.... the "reverse auction" price is extremely reasonable for the build.

I had a good experience with Intercity. Connecticut to San Francisco. I recall the cost was about $2K.

I'm not sure about the sticker but I have an S3 Birkin with a Zetec and it's so easy to change the belt, my advice would be to just do it.

Thanks for the reminder!

Thanks. On my way now. The resistance from ground to positive terminal of the alternator is 100K ohms.... not enough, I'm pretty sure. Even without the alternator in the car, the emergency flasher circuit is shorting somewhere. Fuse in, only 12K ohms across the terminal wires of the battery. Fuse out, infinity.

Thanks for the info! Not sure of the battery and charging voltage. The battery holds a charge fine for weeks when it's disconnected so it's in good shape and it stays charged while the car is running, so the alternator is working. What's throwing me off on the relays is that there seem to be only three terminals, not four as described. Thanks again for the help and other ideas and/or a wiring diagram are greatly appreciated!

I'm trying to troubleshoot an electrical problem with my '03 Birkin S3. The battery goes dead when sitting a few hours. The tach jumps around if the parking lights are turned on. The amp meter runs between 5 and 10 when ever the car is running without lights or anything on (even when the battery is fully charged) 1) Any ideas where I can get the correct version of a wiring diagram? (older versions seem to be around) 2) The relays all seem to have one ground and two non grounded wires. It would be great if someone can explain the principle of activating the relay to me - sorry I'm not knowledgable. 3) At best, the ohms between the positive and negative battery wires (with battery unhooked) are about 250K. I think this is low and might be OK. Can someone confirm? Thanks!!

I bought four 400lb bathroom scales and made some wooden "ramps" to roll the car on and off for corner weighting. Total without spare, spare carrier, or much gas, was right at 1200 lbs for my '03 Birkin. It's nice to have scales at home so the impact from changes (recently bought new, lighter wheels), can be seen right away.

I agree. There's lots of info on http://www.focusfanatics.com/ There are fundamental differences when the same motor is in a "7" such as throttle body injection or Webber carbs, straight through headers, etc. Tom on http://www.focusfanatics.com/ is a common and valuable resource between the forums. :hurray:

Looking forward to seeing you again too! Brining the Seven. Planning to take the "back roads" to Tahoe. Just sold the Elise - after almost nine years of enjoyment.

I have reservations for the hotel and will be registering with GGLC a bit later

Thanks. Great idea!

I'm planning to attend the West Coast Lotus Meet in October, about 400 miles round trip from home via a scenic rout My '03 Birkin needs prep in at least three areas: 1) making the electrics bullet proof. 2) making sure the cooling system is functioning correctly and completely. 3) shopping for top and doors. 1) The electrics need work. There's a short somewhere, when the lights on the tac doesn't read correctly, the temp gauge fluctuates, etc. While the fix of course are matter of tracing the problem(s) down, I have seen others have "marine grade" electrics, i.e. protected from water, heat, and other elements. One thought is to "marine grade" my electrics while tracing the current problems. Question: 1a) Please let me know your thoughts on what products and techniques would be needed for me to improve the protection (and reliability) of the electrics. Question: 1b) Please let me know of a good resource in the SF Bay Area that could potentially do the electrical work for me (if I don't wind up doing it myself). 2) As noted above, the temperature gauge seems to fluctuate and, while the fan is set to switch on at 95C, the temp displayed on the dash gauge is well over 100C before the fan comes on. As the pictures below show, the routing from the "overflow" tube near the pressure cap leads to a tank. The tank also has a larger hose that goes right to the cooling system. Other closed systems I've seen separate the overflow tank from the main system. Question: Does the hose routing seem correct?. 3) Finally, I'm thinking of buying a full weather top and doors. If you know of anyone selling a set, please let me know. Also, I have a new, still in the package, Birkini top that I could trade. Thanks for your help!

Looks like you're located only about 80KM from Porsche headquarters in Stuttgart.

It was great. An amazing variety and number of cars. From flat head Fords to Lexus LFAs, there had to be over 100 sweet rides. Only one 7 though :jester: Free coffee and tickets to the museum too. We should organize a "7 swarm" this summer. :party:

Just wondering if anyone has been to the Blackhawk (SF East Bay) first Sunday of the month event. I've heard from some non7 friends that it's pretty good and am thinking of going tomorrow....early to get a good parking spot :cooldude:

Thanks. If the factory is looking for feedback, I think a reasonably "hot" Zetec or Duratec needs 2.5" from header to exit. Just MHO based on the outcome of changing my exhaust.

Thanks Tom, Interested in hearing about the weight. Another thing I'm wondering about... the size of the exhaust from header to outlet. My Birkin was only 2". Had to replace several items to make it 2.5"...

Tom, What is the weight difference between the Wide Body and S3? You knew someone would ask....

This matches my experience last year perfectly. After dealing for weeks with the BAR, they finally let me through after I forwarded pictures of the construction. It turned out they have been on the look out for cars that are constructed commercially (which mine wasn't). These cars do not qualify for SB100.