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Another one broke! Does anyone "manufacturer" replacement Birkin brackets that won't break and are not too heavy? I hammered out a temporary replacement for the first one... but fabrication is not my forte :smash:.

The title should have said "Cycle Bracket" rather than clam.... My car has less than 3K miles. I've fabricated one from 1/8" mild steel, double from the mounting to first fender bolt (around the 90 degree bend). I also have purchased a couple of new ones that should arrive in September from S. Africa...

This is great. Thanks!

While out for a drive this afternoon, the passenger side clamshell suddenly tilts back, front in the air and bottom rubbing the wheel. It was one bolt easy to pull off to get home and the problem is obvious, the metal strip bolted to the fiberglass clam is broken :puke: The car is an '02 Birkin and the broken piece looks like: Does anyone know where to get another piece reasonably and how to keep this part from breaking in the future?

The state (geographically ;-) you are in completely determines the process you'll need to go through.

Wow, that look fantastic! Where's the local pickup?

FWIW, the standard Jenvy "target" map is between 12.5 and 13.0 at WOT depending on RPM.

Love the link. While it was my second car (and a ''68), I camped across the US and Canada with a group of friends in the summer of '75 in Chevy van.

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks. I'll contact them to see if their manifold might work with big ports.

Any suggestions for a Zetec 3 intake manifold that works with Jenvey throttle bodies and won't restrict flow into a ported (Massive) head? It doesn't look like the current manifold has enough "meat" for grinding to match the head. Jenvey says they don't sell a ported manifold. :bigear:

I use an Odyssey in both the Seven and Elise without any issue. The exact same battery was in my R1100S and R1200S BMW. Earlier this year I replaced the R12 battery with a lithium and could not believe the difference in weight :hurray: It actually cranked stronger and held a charge better (no need to hook it up on a tender - even for weeks at a time). When it's time to replace other batteries, I know which way I'll go. I believe the net difference in weight was 8 lbs. When considering the net difference in cost, less than $10/lb for weight loss. Pretty cheap.

:bigear:

Galt looks like about 80 miles from me but it's a nice drive :driving: . Here are some quick pictures from this afternoon. Some history of my car is in the for sale section as posted by the previous owner, Marine7. A third to a half the cost of a new system sounds fair to me given it's only very slightly used...

I'll be taking it out tomorrow. Initial startup show the exhaust has no effect at idle. Just off idle though it's lean. I had to richen the injection tables for low RPM / low throttle. Tomorrow will bring a better look at the real impact. :jester:

Thanks! They are 15X7 with 195/50/15s. I like the look too but am thinking about getting some lighter wheels and tires. My budget is in recovery mode now though after fitting a new 2 1/2" exhaust and buying a Massive head and stage II cams (installing next week).

Sure, I'll take pictures tomorrow. Let's talk and come up with a fair amount. Depending on where in the central California your friend is, I might be able to deliver or meet him/her half way.

I just took the stock exhaust off of my '02 Birkin S3. It (and the car) have about 2K miles on it. It's in fine condition and there is a OX/wideband sensor bung in the front section and the heat shield and mounts would all go with it. With the rear exit, the main piece is pretty long and shipping probably wouldn't be inexpensive...unless it's cut into two pieces.

Thanks Tom!! I couldn't find a Ford Racing head and am waiting for one from one of the big claims companies. It's been promised to ship "any day now" for several weeks.... Going with a Ford head gasket and fel-pro for the rest. Ford head and cam sprocket bolts. I"m also moving from a 2" exhaust diameter to 2.5". The header collector is already 2.5" so the change is from that point back. If I understand correctly, once everything is together and running OK, do a standard compression check on a warmed up engine with the starter. Move each cam slightly until the compression is highest. Separately, tune the Emerald ECU to the extent possible then, once this and the cam timing based on compression is the best possible, head to the dyno for final cam and Emerald settings. Shift at 6,900, soft rev cut off at 7,050, hard at 7,200. Does this sound like the right plan? :bigear: How important is building a stout bottom end and raising the compression ratio via after market pistons for a street only motor? :bigear: Any tips on ignition timing and A/F ratio across RPM and Load sites in the Emerald tables? :bigear:

It would be great to hear more details :drool: I will be esthetic if my engine makes 190 at the wheels after the head and cam change and without doing anything to the bottom end, i.e. limiting revs to 7,000.

I'm starting the process of "improving" my blacktop. It already has Jenvey throttle bodies. Searching across tons of forums lead me to the conclusion that head flow is a limiting factor in the Zetec. Some folks like the Ford racing head. Others favor different shop's products. I went with Massive (with Crower stage II cams) and am hoping it shows up next week.

Calling Zetec experts :cooldude: My new-to-me Birkin has a Zetec Blacktop with fairly low miles, Jenvey throttle bodies, Emerald ECU and adjustable cam gears but is otherwise stock. While I'm having endless fun sorting the car and tuning the Emerald, the desire to take it to the "next level" is overwhelming :ack: I would love feedback on the details to watch for when upgrading to a ported, big-valve head and stage II cams. Points like: best gaskets preferred assembly procedures valve clearance break-in etc. Is there anything else that makes sense to do at the same time as swapping the head and cams? Finally, from other threads, it seems like ~7200 is the maximum practical RPM. Are there relatively inexpensive precautions that should be taken to make sure the engine stays together at that level? Note, "inexpensive" precludes aftermarket rods, pistons, and balancing... at least at this time. Thanks! :bigear:

Tom, It looks like C-F-M is "out" of the billet oil pump gear... Besides the gear, is there anything else to watch out for when going to ~7200? For example, is there any benefit to ARP rod bolts on a N/A tuned Zetec 3 that will hopefully get to the 210-220 range?

Thanks for the suggestions. Reloading the USB driver was the first thought too... it did not work. I also tried disconnecting the power from the ECU so it might "reset". That didn't work either. Fortunately the folks at Emerald, i.e. Karl, are fantastic. A call and a brief follow up email exchange had me on the road to correctly diagnosing the problem, a bad "lead" (cable in US English). I've temporally patched the old one and it's working fine. A permanent replacement is on it's way from Emerald as well. Thanks again for the help.