toedrag

Curious. It used to redirect properly. I may check with them to see if they would like some pro-bono IT help.

Hmm, interesting. I didn't think friction from the clamping force would handle the worst-case loading. Kind of flying blind here...I suppose one approach would be to just not worry about the grip length and check the bolts a few times during the year.

Thx, Shane & coffee break. I'm definitely not a mechanical engineer by any stretch, but it seems like these driveshaft bolts are primarily loaded in single shear when the car is moving, and with only 3 bolts holding the system together, I'd like to err on the conservative side and have as much surface area as possible in the shear plane.

Thank you for the suggestion. Even though an M12 socket head is only 18mm in diameter vs the 19mm width of an M12 hex head, I don't think the extra 0.5mm on one side will clear the u-joint. But, even if that worked, it's still a question of grip length. All the grip lengths I've found for the socket heads, either locally or online, are too short by a considerable amount. In the 40-50mm length range, most socket heads are fully threaded, for whatever reason. And of the ones which are partially threaded, the grip length is always 10mm or less, which is too short.

I considered it, but I think if I'm going to modify the bolt, I'll just trim the threads, which looks like what I'll have to do to all three of them since I was unable to find an M12 bolt 40mm with enough grip length (15mm-20mm). I've got some thin AN washers, so I'm not worried about running out of threads for the nylock nut after I trim the bolt. The trick will be getting the three bolts the same length. It'll just take a bit longer to cut, grind, file, dress the threads, and measure the length to get them as close as possible to each other. If only someone made metric bolts with a selectable grip length like AN bolts...

I wish it were that easy The interference is caused by a piece of the u-joint whose position is fixed; even if I completely removed the driveshaft, the bolt would still not fit.

Here's the driveshaft bolt situation I was referring to earlier. As you can see, the 50mm bolt included with the kit contacts the u-joint, and it's also too long to fit through the other side. Had the flange been rotated a few degrees before welding, this bolt probably slides in without issue. The other two bolts had no interference problems. I think it was luck of the draw with how it was welded: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27817&g2_serialNumber=3 I shortened the bolt to 40mm and installed it, and then I realized that I probably don't want different bolt lengths on that rotating assembly; the over-thinker in me considered it might cause vibration and/or unwanted stress due to it being out of balance. Knowing that it's unlikely that I can cut 2 more bolts to the same length as the first, I'll be making a trip to my local bolt supplier to find replacement M12 bolts that are 40mm long, hopefully with a proper grip length. Fingers crossed. I suppose another option would be switching to AN bolts, but an AN7 will be .035" smaller in diameter than the M12, and an AN8 will be .027" larger in diameter than the M12. Neither of those ideas is too appealing.

Looking really good, jevs!

Messing with the driveshaft just now and ran into an oddity...It appears that the driveshaft flange has 3 different sets of holes, spaced at various distances from the outer edge, which I suppose is to allow it to fit w/multiple differentials. I was able to get 2 of the 3 bolts in, but the 3rd bolt's head is contacting part of the u-joint that is welded to the mounting flange. The bolt might be a bit too long. I tried inserting the bolt from the other side, and it's too long for that as well. I guess I'll try cutting off about 1/8 to 1/4" off the threads, which still leaves plenty of thread beyond the nylock part of the nut. On the upside, on the driveshaft-to-differential bolts, I was pleasantly surprised to see that the grip length is long enough so that no threads are in the shear plane.

Thx, Shane & Gale. My fiberglass experience is exactly zero/nil. I'm not sure I want to start learning on the nice shiny dash piece. Maybe if I end up doing fiberglass work on other parts of the body, I might go back & try the dash. Probably not...for the time being, I'm planning on hiring out any fiberglass work. Gale, your approach is pretty close to what Brunton has come up with. How has your shifting been? Any close calls or mis-shifts?

I went ahead and installed the starter while I was at it: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27813&g2_serialNumber=3 Top view showing where the shifter ends up (behind the dash). Brunton has a shifter relocation bracket, and I'm also checking with another company, Sikky Manufacturing. I want to bring the shifter rearward about 5 inches: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27848&g2_serialNumber=3

At this point, I had to remove the motor mount brackets from the engine in order to position the drivetrain properly. Once I had it positioned, I put the mounts back in. With the drivetrain in place, it was time to move the chassis so that my wife could regain her parking space. The bulk of the weight is held by the chains. The blue tie down straps are there just to keep the front & back level. The only had maybe 10-20 lbs of tension. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27807&g2_serialNumber=3 The chassis resting on jack stands back on its side of the garage: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27797&g2_serialNumber=3 With that completed, I could continue working. First, the flywheel inspection covers (GM 24261714 & 24261712): http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27809&g2_serialNumber=3 Oddly enough, my oil pan had blank holes for the bolt that holds the covers in place. I had to tap it (M6-1.0). http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27811&g2_serialNumber=3

Drivetrain buttoned up & ready for installation: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27789&g2_serialNumber=3 Because I was using a 1-ton hoist, I had to make some compromises. First, I had to move the chassis off my 3' tall build table and onto some jack stands. The second compromise will be evident shortly. On my first attempt at drivetrain install, I tried approaching from the front of the car: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27799&g2_serialNumber=3 Once the engine got down into the, I ran out of room and couldn't move the hoist forward enough to lower the engine onto the mounts. On attempt #2, I turned the drivetrain 90 degrees to the hoist and approached from the driver's side (compromise #2): http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27803&g2_serialNumber=3 This method worked much better. Plus, I was able to bring the boom back 1 notch, to the 1000 lb mark, instead of keeping it on the 500 lb mark, which had been making me nervous since the engine is ~400 lbs and transmission is ~130 lbshttp://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27805&g2_serialNumber=3

Major milestone achieved!! :hurray::cheers: Couple of notes first: The bellhousing I ended up with is American Powertrain BHCV-11001, which has the following number cast into the Aluminum, Tremec 13-86-212-905. Interestingly, I don't find much when googling that Tremec part number. I've found one similar, which is 13-86-212-005. I'm not sure what the difference is between the -905 and -005. Both the T56 Magnum Close Ratio (TUET11009) & Bellhousing (BHCV-11001) came from American Powertrain, and they went together like butter. For the clutch slave cylinder installation, the Spec instructions called for measuring the distance between the pressure plate fingers & the Throwout Bearing with the spring removed and pressed as far back as it will go. When I did this, the measurement came out in the acceptable range, which meant that no shim was required behind the slave cylinder. And believe me, I quadruple measured. I even went to the trouble of checking lots of different fingers on the pressure plate. Plus, the included shim was 1/8" thick, which would have completely put me out of the acceptable range. This is in contrast to the Brunton build videos, where they indicate that pretty much all the M-Spec T56 & LSx setups require the shim. Time will tell if this was a good decision by me. I should know pretty quickly if I'm unable to change gears. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27785&g2_serialNumber=3 http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27787&g2_serialNumber=4

Made some small progress on the fuel system the last week or so. I didn't like the plumbing routing & fuel filter selection on the shopping list, so I went in a different direction. Refer to this thread, started by user jevs: What are people running for LS motor (V8) fuel filters? As I've now learned, the rule of thumb for a fuel filter setup on a fuel injected engine is a 100 micron pre-pump filter and a 10 micron post-pump filter. However, there are also various resources out there that indicate the post-pump filter should be no larger than 10 micron. That being the case, choosing a fuel filter seems to be a trade off between size, flow rate, pressure drop, and filtering capability. Here are some good articles on fuel filters: Fuel System Filtration Pre-Pump Fuel Filtration Post-Pump Fuel Filtration This being the case, I chose a compact 100 micron fuel filter, mostly for plumbing routing reasons, Aeromotive 12316. Note the differences in filter media between the Summit 40 micron filter (SUM-230105) on the shopping list & the 100 micron Aeromotive: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27763&g2_serialNumber=3 The post-pump filter I chose was a 1 micron (not 10, '1') canister style from Canton Racing, 25-911. It flows a massive 90 gph (more than 2x what the LS3 needs) and as has essentially zero pressure drop. It was a bit cheaper than the I found a good serviceability tip on another forum, which is to install a fuel shut-off valve on the output of the fuel tank to make checking & cleaning the fuel filters & other components a little easier & cleaner. I found a simple ball valve rated for fuel on Aircraft Spruce's site. I know the local HW stores have ball valves for water, oil, and natural gas, but I don't think they are rated for fuel, which isn't to say they will fail miserably - I just prefer to use something listed for the application. I'll come back to the fuel system later this week, hopefully. I've ordered most of the fittings I need, but I need to get them installed before I can order my hoses & hose ends to finish things up. Updates on engine/trans coming shortly :hurray:

Here is a view from the bottom of the car, looking up at where the pump & post-pump filter are: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27769&g2_serialNumber=2

Received my filters today and a few fittings. First things first...here is the SUM-230105 vs Aeromotive 12316. Take a look at the huge different in the size & configuration of the filter media. Additionally, the Aeromotive has 3/8" NPT female fittings, which if you want to use AN fittings, it makes the body a little longer than the Summit one http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27763&g2_serialNumber=3 For my fuel system, I think I have a workable solution now. I need a sanity check, however...please tell me why it is a terrible, terrible idea to run the fuel pump *under* the passenger side half-shaft. This part of the half-shaft shouldn't really be moving much up & down, so I don't see it being a problem clearance-wise. Obviously, in the event of catastrophic failure where the CV joint, half-shaft, and/or differential meets the true death, it would likely destroy the pump & plumbing and would lead to a fuel spill. On the other hand, I'm having trouble coming up with any plumbing routing variation which would guard against that. Intuitively, what I'm proposing feels wrong. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27765&g2_serialNumber=2 http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27767&g2_serialNumber=2 For my post-pump filter, I purchased a Canton Racing 25-911, which is a 1 micron (yes, '1' = one micron, not a typo) canister style filter. Why '1' micron? Well, I found a Bosch article where they recommended a http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27771&g2_serialNumber=2

Does having a tank with a sump, along with an external pump, reduce the risk of fuel starvation? Is it difficult to use an in-tank pump inside a tank that has a sump? Seems like it may require a fair bit of tank modifications to make it work. Might be easier to just start over with a new tank. (I won't be the one to try this, btw) And when I hit a bump, if it makes the tank, sump, and pump go thump, will it hurt my lump - as my wallet goes....ker-plunk? :jester: - channeling some Dr. Seuss for you all

Thx, Jevs. Here is the SUM-230105 filter. The quarter-sized filter element is "it". The remainder of the blue aluminum tube is entirely hollow. It's kind of mind-boggling that, one, this thing costs $30, and two, that I would put the trust of my fuel system and engine function in the hands of this filter that has maybe 1 sq in of filter media: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27761&g2_serialNumber=2

Looks good! And I see you got the hitch receiver mounted On the upper control arms, why did you use the middle mounting hole of the frame bracket instead of the bottom hole?

Ooooh, I see....I completely missed the fact that you're using BOTH the air oil separator (shiny can on the right) on the Dirty side on the Jaz can (tan w/breather filter) on the clean side. I, for whatever reason, thought you had replaced your original setup with the Jaz can, but I now see you supplemented it. Makes perfect sense! http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27172&g2_serialNumber=2

Seems like I overlooked a detail in your current setup... I can see from this photo of yours that the two valve cover ports connect to the catch can. Do you currently have the valley cover port connected to the IM or other vacuum source? http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27186&g2_serialNumber=2

Ran across this implementation just now on ls1tech where a guy welded a bung to his exhaust and uses that as a vacuum source to draw the crankcase vapors out, buuuuut if the gasses are combustible, that seems like an approach that could have surprising results once the exhaust gets good & hot...not sure? (I won't be doing it this way):

Thx, Shane! Great info on the history & evolution of your setup. If I follow your current design, you're not allowing the PCV system to pull a vacuum, which means there is no path for the oil to enter the inktake. And when pressure builds in the crankcase, it's drawn up & out of the valve cover hoses due to the pressure differential, and then through the breather on top of the catch can? It my understanding is correct, it's another interesting variation on the PCV system's implementation. It solves the oil ingestion risk and, in theory, still allows the icky gasses to escape from the crankcase. I'm not opposed to atmospheric venting either. Although, upon further consideration, I wonder if the gasses would have any corrosive effects on surrounding material over time? Perhaps since you have the hood vents back there it allows the gasses to escape pretty easily? That's the only thing that might prevent me from doing it your way since I don't have hood vents. Right, with a simple breather like the following, I had seen where people had problems with oil eventually saturating the filter and later slowly spraying the top of the engine with oil droplets: http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/700/710/710-68841.jpg Here's one example of the miniature catch can I was referring to. It's fully enclosed and then has a tube to connect to a fresh-air/metered inlet. The idea is that b/c this is the "clean" side of the stock PCV system, the oil that is temporarily trapped is also still "clean" and can be allowed to drip back down into the valve cover. The question is whether or not it fits under the hood and if it's big enough: http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server1800/581ad/products/174/images/470/i_ZFvVD8P_S__22995.1405381066.1280.1280.jpg?c=2

And because I'm a data driven individual, I decided to look into the fuel pump on the Brunton shopping list to validate that it's a good match to the application, and I'm happy to say that it is. GMPP indicates that the LS3 requires 40 gph @ 58 psi. From http://www.vepetersen.com/images/stories/PDFs/Catalogs/walbro_aftermarket_catalog_2013.pdf http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27743&g2_serialNumber=3