toedrag

It is; I do like it and will leave it - unless something else with the remainder of the car requires me to do something different. It's as close to the feel of a "stock" pedal as I could get. The other location doubles or maybe triples the amount of effort required to move the pedal. I'm guestimating; I'm sure there's some math I could use here, but I don't feel like looking it up. I suspect the closer location may be based on Scott's personal preference to have a very stiff throttle pedal. The good news is that, as long as you don't chop off the end of the pedal first, you can drill a few holes to find what you like :cheers: The adjustability is useful for changing the angle/distance of the throttle pedal relative to the other pedals - if nothing else for the initial setup. I probably adjusted mine 5-6 times, and I imagine I'll adjust it a couple more times after I have a functional vehicle.

Major milestone achieved with the throttle linkage. Man, I struggled with this one...so many dependencies and chicken/egg scenarios trying to get it put together. For some background, the LS3 uses drive by wire, and the GM throttle pedal is included in the electronics kit from Brunton. The GM pedal base is too large for the footbox, so it gets located on the vertical section of the firewall shelf, and there is a linkage connecting it to the actual pedal, both of which are also provided by Brunton - sort of. The DIY part here comes when connecting the GM pedal to the lever included in the Brunton kit. Brunton started using heims & hex tube on their turnkey cars, but these bits aren't included in the kit. The other common approach is to just use flat steel bar. I like the heims & hex tube approach, but had another idea, which was born mostly out of impatience and not wanting to source tiny hex tube & tiny heims. I made up some clevis ends by bending some flat steel, tapped a 1/4-28 hole to use with some threaded rod, and drilled a 1/4" hole for the pin. I made two of these: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27596&g2_serialNumber=3 Here is a partially assembled linkage, minus the cut-out in the firewall shelf to allow the Brunton-supplied pedal to pass through. I have 1/4" bolts as the 'pins' of the clevis, temporarily. Locating the connection point high on the GM pedal allows a nice stock feel to the throttle pedal effort and should still clear the underside of the hood. I used bronze sleeves as thrust bearings (I think that's the term?). And yes, the ECU harness can still be easily connected with the pedal base mounted where it is. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27598&g2_serialNumber=4 Final throttle pedal position. All pedals are quite adjustable. When I climbed in and practiced my heel/toe, it felt good, but I was really guessing on the amount of brake pedal travel the car will have: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27600&g2_serialNumber=3 Top view of the near-final assembly. What's not shown is some temporary reinforcement on the other side of the firewall shelf where the GM pedal base mounts. The firewall shelf flexes a little too much for my liking when the pedal is actuated. I have yet to figure out exactly what I'll do back there, but it shouldn't be too difficult. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27604&g2_serialNumber=5 To finish things up: I'll add some nylon spacers to the clevises to keep them quiet Lengthen the pedal cut-out to allow slightly more pedal travel at the end of the stroke Add a grommet/boot for the cut-out in the firewall shelf Figure out reinforcing for GM pedal base Cut-off the extra GM pedal Add a 1/4" pin/bolt to connect the throttle pedal to the linkage lever. There is only 1 sheet metal screw holding it in right now, and I'm not going to rely on that to keep my throttle pedal attached.

Oh, and this goody was delivered today: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27556&g2_serialNumber=2 http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27560&g2_serialNumber=3 More pictures to come after I bring home a hoist & stand, hopefully on Sat.

Been a good few days working through pedal installation. 1/2" aluminum spacers under the pedals. Raising the pedals is a standard practice for Brunton so that the lower bolt holding the clutch MC is more accessible. Threading the pedal mount with 3/8-24 tapped threads is also a common Brunton practice so that you don't need access on both sides of the floor panel to remove the pedals. Nice touch. I chose to also tap the clutch MC with 3/8-24 for the same reason. The aluminum spacers are 3/8" ID x 1 3/8" OD, 1/2" tall - seemingly made for this application, Speedway Motors p/n 715BM4011, and is on a garage sale right now at $10 for 4 of them http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27544&g2_serialNumber=2 Here's the driver side footwell with a 1 3/4" hole cut on the lower right for the boot of the clutch MC. I lined it with common edge trim from the local parts store. It's a perfect fit around the largest part of the boot of the clutch MC. But, if the MC is pushed too far into the cockpit, there will no longer be a good seal. Next, you'll see where I used 2 stacked spacers to keep the MC positioned properly. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27538&g2_serialNumber=3 Close up showing the two stacked washers. I ended up cutting part of washers so that they didn't protrude too far into the hole. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27554&g2_serialNumber=6 Almost done. A few last touches to go. I have actually clamped the clutch hose at the barbs and have one adel/p-clamp holding the hose, but those aren't pictured. It's worth noting that the brake pedal pushrod is mounted ~4 inches above horizontal on the vertical brake lever; this was per Brunton's recommendation for cars with 6-piston front brakes. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27547&g2_serialNumber=3 I'm waiting on: A boot/grommet for the brake pedal pushrod In an attempt to quiet the Wilwood pedal at the pivot point, I need to find some washers that are 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD x 1/64" (0.015") or 1/32" (0.030") thick. Hopefully, Wilwood will see my nice email and just drop some in the mail for me. I found some Aircraft Spruce ones that may work if Wilwood doesn't come through. I also had a big pedal milestone today that I had been somewhat dreading, which was mounting the bracket for the throttle linkage on the firewall shelf. I had been pretty nervous about choosing the correct position of the throttle pedal, but I think I have something that will work well for heel/toe. I lost count of how many times I climbed into the floorless cockpit to awkwardly try to do a heel/toe action, visualizing where the throttle pedal needed to be.

Been prepping for pedal installation. Part of that required deciding on the mounting position of the clutch master cylinder. I had planned to do a remote mounting of the Wilwood reservoir, and when I mentioned this to Brunton Auto, I received a warning: when mounted remotely, the Wilwood reservoirs always leak, but when mounted directly to the MC, it's leak free. Further interwebs research confirmed Brunton's warning. Armed with this info, and not to be deterred, I did the following, applying some lessons from household plumbing troubleshooting --> soapy water spray bottle. Per Wilwood's instructions, I baked the pertinent pieces at 125F for ~10 min, making sure they are hot to the touch: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27524&g2_serialNumber=4 Next, I used some Sil-Glyde brake lube on the o-rings for both the MC & the remote mount base. After the baking was complete, I assembled things quickly, including attaching the clamps around the mating pieces and clamping them tightly. I waited until the next day to mess with the assemblies any more. That next day, I set up my jig to do some pressure testing of the remote mount setup. This involves some air fittings and a piece of scrap plastic to keep air from escaping out of the vent hole in the Wilwood lid. In retrospect, the pressure gauge wasn't really needed (although, I may use this setup again to pressure test the fuel tank, radiator, and other systems). FYI, I didn't feel the need to use clamps on the rubber hose. It leaked there a tiny bit, but not enough to impact the experiment. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27530&g2_serialNumber=4 Once the reservoir was pressurized to 20 psi, I sprayed soapy water on the joint where the reservoir & remote mount base meet. Bubbles indicate that air is leaking out. Bigger bubbles = bigger leak: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27526&g2_serialNumber=4 The presence of leaks being confirmed, I tried a few different orientations of the clamp, but what seemed to work the best is to ensure that the bottom ring of the clamp is very close to the rubber o-ring (fuzzy black line inside the assembly). It seemed like if the bottom ring was too low, no amount of tightening would stop the leaks. You'll have to take my word for it that in the following picture, the reservoir is still pressurized to 20 psi. I also didn't overtighten the clamp at any point; I tightened it with a wrench, using a light grip, until I felt a noticeable change in resistance. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27528&g2_serialNumber=4 Usually, I'm reluctant to declare success, but it seems pretty promising here, especially since the vented lid is active at low pressure, like 5 psi. So, I'll continue with my remote mounting idea, placing the reservoir adjacent to the brake booster. This should allow the clutch pedal to slide a little further away from the brake pedal and allows a little more convenient access to the reservoir from above.

Whoa...That sounds pretty enticing.

Good to know, thx. Although, for such an inconsequential bolt, I'll probably end up with a 15mm long one from my local bolt supplier vs paying for GM's version.

Since the bellhousing shape is from the LS1 w/T56 generation, I'm wondering if these covers are the right ones. 24261714, AC Delco 12558718 24261712, AC Delco 12561536 The bolts are 11515704, M6x1.0x17mm. One per cover. Just found this thread on ls1tech from subtlez28 where he asked the same question.

You could add an oil pressure switch and connect it to a buzzer, light, or shock collar system? The IR baffle, theoretically, should be easy to add in the Stalker. When I added one of their baffles on my last car, most of the battle was getting the darn oil pan off due to all the other stuff in the way. Had to move AC lines, slide the steering rack forward, lift the engine up a few inches, etc...In the Stalker, it should be much easier to remove the pan b/c it should just drop straight down without any drama (easy for me to say without an engine on hand).

Thx! The IR baffle should be sufficient up to somewhere around 1.2-1.4 G's, but IR is still doing final testing on the unit. Proto's are running in cars today and are doing well. More than likely, I'll be under 1.2-1.4 G's for a while, and if/when I exceed that or start seeing oil pressure issues, I'll figure out a solution, either Accusump or scavenge-only dry sump. I'll keep the car on street tires for a long time - at least that's what I keep telling myself - and that should help limit the G's. I wonder which has hotter oil, the pan sensor, or the at the oil cooler ports? It may not be enough difference to really matter, but I'm leaning toward the idea that oil near the edge of the pan will be a little cooler than oil at the bottom of the sump where the pickup tube is. Then again, the oil cooler ports measure filtered oil temperature, and maybe there would be some cooling effects between the pickup tube & oil cooler ports. Not sure...Like I said, it may not matter where it ends up... I might test both simultaneously to compare. No worries at all. Forums need verbose dialogue; it keeps away the riff-raff. The pan I have is 12624617, which is the lowest profile pan that GM makes *I think*. I think it's generally referred to as the LS2 or Corvette LS3 pan, and you're correct about the internal baffling. The guys at IR are creative :cooldude:. What they did is create a combo baffle & crank scraper system that bolts to the block, instead of the pan like the rest of their baffles. They originally were trying a weld-in kit for the pan, but ended up with this much more palatable bolt-in version. It's brand spankin' new and not yet on the website, but it will likely be launched very soon. You can order it over the phone now if you want. Once I receive it, hopefully Wed next week, I'll take a bunch of pictures. Although, since I don't yet an engine, it'll be standalone pictures, and once I have the engine, I'll take more pictures of course.

Received the LS2 Oil pan this week. I'm waiting on a new oil pan baffle & crank scraper setup from Improved Racing (EGM-215). More details & pictures when it arrives. I'm also waiting on CBM-10820, which is a nice piece that goes on the oil cooler ports of the oil pan and has tapped holes for sensors. I'll take my oil temp reading from one of these ports, instead of the sump of the oil pan. Alternatively, I could tap the existing oil cooler port cover with 1/8 NPT as many others have done, but I prefer to keep the cover in tact in case I decide to do something different. GM also has 12551587, which is a cover that has an M12 x 1.5 hole for a sensor, same as the GM ECT sensor. Of course, if I end up doing an oil cooler later on, the oil cooler adapter will be installed over the ports in the pan, the temp sensor will connect to the oil cooler, and all the previous cover business is moot. Next on the purchase planning list is engine & transmission. For the transmission, I know Brunton is working on a remote shifter setup for the T56 Magnum, but I'm also trying to find a backup source or two, which so far, is potentially Enjuku Racing & Sikky Manufacturing - have questions out to both to assess. Finally finished the brake line plumbing and securing them with Adel clamps. All the lines have at least 1/4" of clearance to any potentially damaging edge or surface. The only open brake plumbing item is that I'm waiting on a 10mm x 1.0 plug for the MC. Next on the install list will be brake & clutch pedals. I played with a few different configurations of fittings for the proportioning valve, pressure switch, and hard line. I'm comfortable with how things ended up. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27504&g2_serialNumber=3 http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27512&g2_serialNumber=3 Looking down the tunnel towards the rear of the car http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27514&g2_serialNumber=3 Up & over the differential and down to the Tee. This location is slightly different from the stock location, which I needed to do b/c of the hitch receiver. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27520&g2_serialNumber=3

A few small jobs today: Received more Adel clamps from Aircraft Spruce so that I can continue securing the brake tubing. 3/16" with the wedge shaped rubber is MS21919-WDG3 @ $0.36 ea. Although, for the last two clamps, I need to remove the differential to make room for the drill. Hood Hinges: They are 5" T-hinges from the neighborhood HW store with 3/16 steel rod as a removable hinge pin. The hitch pin on the end to keep the rod in place, and the white nylon washers keep things aligned & quiet. This is the standard Stalker implementation, I believe: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27498&g2_serialNumber=3 Received the 1/8 NPT Tee fitting (Allstar 50138) that I'll use at the proportioning valve to connect the tube from the MC and to connect the brake fluid pressure switch, aka brake light switch. Sadly, I didn't check the male threads before test fitting it in the proportioning valve. The male threads were a little malformed. To clean up the threads on both the male fitting on the Tee and the female fitting on the proportioning valve, I used a 1/8 NPT tap & die. I realize I could have just sent the Tee package back to the retailer, but correcting it myself was just easier, plus the whole instant gratification thing... Another useful factoid is that NPT fittings seem to be the same as IPT that you find at your neighborhood HW store in the plumbing section (just don't mix it with IPS, which uses straight, non-tapered threads). The downside with NPT vs other automotive fittings is that you need to use thread sealer. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27494&g2_serialNumber=3 Lastly, and I admit I'm feeling pretty clever about this one. As an engineer at heart, I have an intrinsic need to test things. So, naturally, I wanted to test the brake pressure switch (Ron Francis SW-32) before it's time to put fluid in the car (months from now). As I was rummaging around my toolkit checking for some NPT adapters, I saw my little blowgun nozzle. Wouldn't you know it, the tip of the blowgun is a 1/8 NPT female thread, which allowed the pressure switch to thread right into it!! :hurray: This switch should be active, shorting the two contacts, when the pressure is higher than 20-50 psi. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27496&g2_serialNumber=4

Perfect. Thx. I got nervous when I read their install instructions online, and they mention checking register bore run out and using offset dowels to correct alignment issues.

MightyMike, I think I saw in another thread that you used a Quicktime bellhousing. Any issues, tips, or tricks during installation? I'm probably going to use one and was curious if there were any gotchas or prep items, like grinding part of it to fit the starter, or drilling holes, etc. It looks like alignment dowel pins are sold separately. Do you have them? If not, any issues getting it aligned?

Brunton really didn't like my configuration of the brake lines at the MC, shown a couple posts earlier, where the rear brake line terminates to the port adjacent to the port where the front line connects. I'll be putting it back to the 'normal' configuration where the rear line terminates at the middle port of the MC. It's an easy change since I just need to trim a couple inches off a ~9" length of tubing. Received the 1/2" steel spacers for the toe rod bolt. They are a perfect fit. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27486&g2_serialNumber=2 http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27488&g2_serialNumber=2 http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27490&g2_serialNumber=2

degoetz, here's another thought: Have you tried measuring the brake fluid pressure at each corner? Speedway makes a pressure gauge with 1/8 NPT female fitting, which means it'll thread into the braided lines since they have a 1/8 NPT male fitting on the caliper end. The gauge also has a bleeder valve for removing air after installation: $29, http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Single-Brake-Pressure-Gauge,592.html http://static.speedwaymotors.com/RS/SR/Product/54544025_L.jpg

Got it. Thx for sharing! Noted for future reference.

In the second picture from the top, what is the vice grip clamped to?

Correct, straight copper isn't a good choice for brake lines. This is a copper-nickel alloy, specifically designed for brake lines.

Not sure if EBC has their Orangestuff yet for Miata brakes, but you could look into it. They are a pretty aggressive track pad.

Given that the latest versions of Stalkers seem to be front brake biased even with the proportioning valve fully open, I decided to try another approach. In the stock setup, the rear brake tube to be connected to the middle port on the Master Cylinder (MC). On this MC, the middle port receives reduced brake pressure due to internal proportioning. I decided to plug the middle port of the MC and connect the front & rear to the full pressure ports on the MC. The unterminated tube at the top of this picture will connect to the 'Input' of the proportioning valve, through a Tee fitting which will also hold the Brake Light Switch. I'm waiting on the Tee fitting to arrive. The bend in this top tube looks odd, due to the photo's perspective; it actually bends around & behind the MC Reservoir, not up & over. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27482&g2_serialNumber=4 On the rear end of the car, I had to relocate the Tee fitting slightly from its normal location, due to my hitch receiver. FYI, the fuel tank sits at an angle and doesn't interfere with the 90 degree bend near the Tee. I am in the process of adding Adel clamps to secure the tubing: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27484&g2_serialNumber=4

Re-worked the brake lines for a couple of reasons. First, I mangled the longest piece of tubing that Brunton supplies to use for the Fronts. Second, I decided to relocate the proportioning valve from the stock location in the tunnel to the firewall shelf, adjacent to the brake booster. Why? I don't expect to use the valve on a regular basis; it'll likely be a set it & forget it feature for me. Then, because I relocated the valve to the front, it meant that I could have one continuous piece of brake tubing going to the rear brakes, instead of the two pieces of tubing that come in the kit. But, in order to re-do the brake lines, I had to become proficient at flaring new brake tubing. Here are the tools & failed attempts. There are 3 vitally important techniques here: The cut must be perfectly square. If there are bends in the tube prior to the cut, the wheels of the tubing cutter will force the tubing cutter to make a skewed cut, which leads to a skewed flare. The two halves of the metal clamp must be perfectly flush. One side always wants to sit higher/lower than the other. It takes a lot of patience to get them flush. The wingnuts must be cinched down VERY tight. Use the metal rod/handle on the end of the flaring tool to tighten the wingnuts after they are hand tight. There are little cut-outs in the rod for this purpose. The rest is easy. Sometimes, preparing to do the flaring in steps 1-3 could take 5-10 minutes, especially if I have to re-cut the tube due to it skewed center originally. Use brake fluid as lubricant on the business ends of the various pieces. I had to use two different sets of flaring kits. My Harbor Freight tool on the right broke at the wingnut 'wing'. The Autozone loaner kit had stripped threads on the conical clamping bolt. It took about 15 tries to get things figured out. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27470&g2_serialNumber=3 http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27472&g2_serialNumber=3 Comparing my flare on the left with a factory flare on the right from a braided brake hose. I'm also happy to say that, not once, did I forget to add the tube nut before flaring the line. I came close twice, but caught it before flaring: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27474&g2_serialNumber=3 Relocated proportioning valve: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27480&g2_serialNumber=3

Been taking care of mostly small, miscellaneous catch-up type of items. I finally figured out the riddle of the hood fitment. Using some clamps, heat gun, & IR temperature gun, I was able to adjust the vertical profile of the hood to match the scuttle. Here is a side view, nice & flush: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27250&g2_serialNumber=3 Coleman Racing sent me the correct steering shaft, so I was able to do a dry fit of the steering column. I deviated from the Stalker stock setup for manual steering, which is 2 smooth & hollow steering shafts & associated u-joints. For my steering system, the lower shaft is a telescoping DD from Borgeson, and the upper shaft is a hollow splined shaft from Coleman. I'll wait to trim the upper shaft until I get my seats situated. The steering puzzle pieces go together like this: Coleman Rack (1 7/8" square) with 3/4-48 spline --> U-Joint (3/4-48 to 1" DD) --> Telescoping DD shaft --> U-joint (1" DD to 3/4-48) --> Upper Steering Shaft 3/4-48 --> Quick Release Hub adapter (Longacre 56605) --> Steering Wheel (Grant 762) http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27464&g2_serialNumber=3 http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27230&g2_serialNumber=3 Made some adjustments to the rear caliper bracket & test fit the calipers. Stalker will be sending new caliper brackets. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27461&g2_serialNumber=3

Here's an interesting read on Brake Bias: [/url]http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/white-paper---brake-bias-and-performance-why-brake-balance-matters What surprised me is how switching to a more aggressive compound on the fronts, or having a BBK could actually negatively impact stopping distance because it puts too much front bias in the system. What this car currently has is likely: -6 piston front calipers, and 4-piston rears => front bias -Using the middle port of the MC => more front bias -Proportioning Valve wide open, and no one seems to be complaining of rears locking up My conclusion: It seems like there is too much front bias in this system, and I'm more convinced now that the rear brake line should simply be moved to the now-plugged MC port, and the middle port of the MC should be plugged. I'll probably do mine this way, and I'll let you know how it turns out when it's completed in 6+ months

Fantastic! Glad you had a good time. Great to hear about the manual steering. On the coolant question...I know the LS3 runs warmer than most, but still, 240 sounds pretty toasty. Air lock in the system somewhere? Did you feel the coolant hoses at the radiator, were both hot? Is there any chance the gauge was pulling the PID for oil temp instead? Also, if you want, you could temporarily unplug the harness from the coolant temp sensor while the engine is hot and measure the resistance between the two pins of the sensor. Use the table below to compare with the reading from your gauge. The data below is from a Duralast SU112, which should be equivalent to the stock LS3 coolant temp sensor, but there may be a couple ohms difference. This would at least confirm if the gauge is accurately reading what the sensor is reporting to the ECU. R(ohms) | Temp (F) 37.2 | 320 40.6 | 310 45.6 | 300 51.7 | 290 58.3 | 280 70.3 | 270 77.2 |260 90.8 | 250 106.6 | 240 124.7 |230 145.9 |220 172.8 |210 204 | 200 246 |190 296 | 180 357 |170 434 |160 525 |150 634 |140 775 |130 970 |120 1237 |110