Driven

Hadn't thought of that, although a quick google search doesn't show any simple plug and play options... while I wired up a K24 into my Noble, I don't feel like tackling ANOTHER wiring nightmare if there's a P&P option, but will do it if it means having more freedom and visibility on what the engine and EMS is doing. Would you happen to have any links that I should look thru?

I got an email from Webcon today basically saying the same. Nice to know, even in it's prime, Webcon was terrible for customer support I guess it's either, yank the drivetrain, sell it as with harness and ecu... and swap a F22c in it, because Honda user base. Now, to convince the SO to pull the trigger on it.

What EMS is everyone using for their Zetec powered cars? We have a Superformance S1 which has Webcon ITBs and an Alpha EMS... but webcon's support for this setup is nil, was thinking of swapping out the EMS for something more user friendly.

Be interested in reading that -- especially how they felt the Noble compared to the Caterham.

This might be one of the more vague for sale posts I've seen.

Per Katana, weight is at 18lbs per wheel, re71rs in 205/50-15 are 21lbs -- total package of 39lbs. Not sure what the stock wheels and tires weight, but I could go toss them on a scale and see.

And it's about goddamn time too: http://thekam.com/images/cars/S1/ext/20170119_Side.jpg Before / After: http://thekam.com/images/cars/S1/ext/20170119_BeforeAfter.jpg Looks much, much, much better than the terrible enkeis. They are some knock-off rays, since the car comes with a stupid 4x114.3 PCD and ~35 offset it made it difficult finding wheels that looked good and weren't custom. She also bought cheater tires, RE71Rs. The OEM set of wheels had some forgettable tires that had a stamp of 0501. Yes, 5th week of 2001. 16 year old tires. She initially wanted NT01s, but I told her that she should probably get something with SOME traction in the wet, despite the car being a fair weather car and we live in a desert.

Anyone have any idea where the brake rotors come from for the Superformance S1? The PCD for the rotor is 4x114.3 (4x4.5) -- I imagined they used Ford parts for it, since they used a lot of Ford parts for the Noble (both built in the same factory) .. but I don't know of any Ford products that use 4x114.3. The wheel stud is a little easier, since I can just remove one, measure it, and find extended replacements. BUT, I figured if the rotor came from x make and model, the studs are likely from there too. Brake calipers are wilwoods, they look like the common kit fitted to many 7s. Ah, the joys of owning a car that has just 56 examples.

Built my Lego Caterham to be LHD...

To revisit, the issue has gone away once we replaced the ignition coils and wires with a MSD unit. Car has been running like a top since.

Is there a photo gallery of all the variants?

S2000 drivetrain is extremely stout when in stock form, only things you got to be on top of is: - Timing chain tensioner - valve adjustments - diff fluid changes Now if you have the F20C (2.0), then you add to the above list: - valve guides / retainers (unless you swap them out to the F22c parts). Also, a 300whp miata 1.6/1.8 would be cheaper to build than a 300whp K20/K24, because of engine costs, but 300whp in a K20/K24 is a mild build and hardly pushing the limits of the K-series motor. While the Miata motor at 300whp is at the upper limits, especially considering you've nearly doubled it's output. But it really boils down to your budget: - S2000 drivetrain (engine, gearbox, diff) = $3000-$4000 - K20/K24 (engine only, plus adapter, plus S2000 gearbox) = $2500-$3500 - Miata drivetrain (engine, gearbox, diff) = $1000-$1500 S2000 drivetrain would be the most power out of the box and the most reliable, as well as the most fun. K20/K24 would require the most work and fabrication to make work (still pretty easy) Miata would allow you to use the money you saved to go to more track days

I'm in Vegas, also have a Superformance S1. We bring it to Cars and Coffee usually. Or if you're free this Sunday, there's a group of car types (mostly S2000s) meeting up for a BBQ at Desert Bloom Park at noon. We'll have the S1 out, more than welcome to swing by and sit in it.

A boosted Miata engine vs a S2000 engine isn't quite apples to apples, especially since a boosted Miata engine is likely to go boom way way way sooner than a S2000 engine ever will. But, the problem with the K20/K24 is the longitudinal layout. There's a guy who is running NASA TT in his S2000 with a K24 in it, and has lost two motors due to oiling issues. If you could dry sump the engine, I'm sure it'll do fantastic, but the oil pan options currently available don't seem to keep the oil where it needs to be for a longitudinal layout. To swap it in, you'd could use the ballade kit that fits a K20/K24 into a S2000: https://www.balladesports.com/products/hondas2000/s2000-to-k2024-swap-kit It's not cheap and you'd really only need the gearbox to engine adapter, as well as the exhaust manifold. Then you'd need to fab or buy the intake manifold so it faces forward. Would be a fantastic motor to use, since you could build it up to do 300whp NA, just go with a dry sump setup. Otherwise, use the F22C for the stronger valvetrain and torque, or the F20C for the revs. Can't go wrong with either. Bottom line, the S2000 drivetrain would be the best way to go, cost wise and reliability. If you ever get bored, throw a supercharger on it and go nuts.

Hah, brilliant, too bad it's fake, but funny nevertheless!

Nothing on that car makes sense. It's what I imagined someone giving a five year old child the opportunity to design a car and that's what the child came up with.

Thank you! Found it after removing the 3500 screws that hold that rear under tray. Quick trip to Autozone to find a replacement, and voila, we have working brake lights! next up, possible vapor lock issue

We purchased a S1 about 2-3 weeks ago, it had something close to +2000 miles on it... we have driven it maybe 150mi since owning it. And not a single time have we decided to make sure the brake lights work, until today. Well, they don't. Oddly enough, there's no switch at the pedal assembly. Not even any wiring. Fuse checked out ok. Haven't checked the bulbs. Here is how Off Road SHO's looks: http://www.usa7s.net/vb/showthread.php?9137-Superformance-S-1-Brake-light-switch/page2 Ours is barren and void of any switch on the brake pedal. I followed the front brake line from master to calipers, no pressure switch. Haven't followed the rear brake line yet, wanted to check the brain trust before I start pulling panels off the car. Any ideas where else to look?

The ecu in the Superformance is mounted inside the cabin, behind a small glove box. There's very little airflow to the area, but a lot of engine bay heat transfers to the bulkhead the ECU is mounted to, thus increasing the heat to the ECU. I'll check the temp, but it's not a dramatic difference between the ECU and the bulkhead it's mounted to -- Although leaving your hand on the ECU cover for more than 5 secs will leave you a nice burn, whereas the surrounding area is likely burn-inducing after 10 or so secs. I'll check for more loose connections. I haven't considered vapor lock ...

Vehicle: Superformance S1 Drivetrain: Ford Zetek Engine Management: Alpha Symptoms: Cold start, works great. At Night, works pretty good. But once the water temps start seeing close to 200F, the car will hesitate, then eventually die. Won't start until the engine has cooled down. This happens if while driving or idling in the driveway. What I've tested: - ECU is extremely hot to the touch, not sure if the Alpha will shut down once it reaches a certain temp. Considered installing a PC fan into the ecu cover. - Fuses behind glovebox were fine, but replaced them for good measure. Still happened after replacing. - Relays are also all connected properly. When the car was stumbling, I was pushing on the wires and relays to see if any change, no change whatsoever. What I haven't tested: - I did read about another person's issue with fuel system wiring... haven't looked into that yet. - fuel filter cleaniness. Car has less than 3000 miles, so not sure if the filters would be clogged yet, plus I'd imagine it would run poorly all the time vs. dying when it gets hot. Anything else I should look at?

NASA is a great org to run with, very professional and not often do they have incidents. I know the local PCA region banned "fenderless cars", as a friend with an Exocet found out the hard way (trailered car to track, was told to pack it back up). They let him install some fenders and run the next event though. PCA is the only group that runs consistently at Spring Mountain, and routinely (an event every three months). I know PCA flat out stopped letting people have passengers, unless it's a student/instructor type of situation. This hurt our local region's participation. Hoping they don't continue with more restrictions or outright ban 7s.

I dunno, there are a TON of track days for folks in SoCal, almost as many in NorCal. If those in SoCal wish to travel a little, Vegas has a track about 60miles west that is the best track in the SouthWest (Spring Mountain), if not the West coast. Oddly enough, Porsche Club is having an event there this weekend (they allow all makes). Was hoping to have both the s1 and the nob out there, but the gf is working and won't be able to track the s1.

Thanks for the advice! I'm not sure what pads are currently installed, so will have to pull wheels and check everything to ensure nothing is going to fall off next weekend. the girlfriend seems excited.... although the 300treadwear tires aren't going to help her any.

Thanks for the replies. Disappointing about the ECU, but I guess it is what it is. Another reason to move to a Honda drivetrain Brakes -- will research into the smaller MC. I haven't had a chance to check the balance, since we have only put maybe 1.5miles on it so far. You wouldn't happen to know what caliper model and what rotors the S1 uses, would you? Figured best to start ordering some pads/rotors to have on hand. I read this as S2K, as in the Honda S2000 (I'm a former S2000 owner), which made me think "Who is cross-shopping a Noble and a S2000?" lol. Least the Ultralite and the Noble share similar power-to-weight

The girlfriend recently blew the engine in her 350z -- again. So she started aggressively shopping for cars. Her initial goal was for an Exige, but finding one in a good condition and in her budget was difficult. Instead, I found the S1 while browsing wire wheel's site and passed it onto her. She liked it, but wasn't sold on it until she drove a friend's Exocet at a PCA track event. A few emails later, the S1 was shipped. Thankfully, the pedals move as she's 5' 5", so she has a hard time reaching them. May have to add some blocks on the pedals to extend them further, but otherwise, she loves it. She wants to paint it eventually. http://thekam.com/images/cars/s1/s1Garage.JPG The Zetec is a bit anemic, already started looking into either S2000 drivetrain or K20 with S2000 gearbox. That'll be a few years down the road though. Questions: 1. Does anyone know about the Alpha ecu and associated software? I found the DE9/DE15 plug dangling from the passenger side...would love to datalog stuff, if possible. 2. Brake booster. Anyone ever add one? I know the car is light and technically doesn't NEED one, the brake effort is significant compared to the other cars. Would want the effort to be relatively consistent.