waltermitty

Got it torqued using just the timing bolt, cam locating tool and the indexing bolt on the crank damper/pulley plus a big ole screwdriver on the flexplate to take some of the strain off.

Thanks for the information. The Ford D4ZZ-7600A, Mazda F801-11-303 cross to the National # FC-65354. Between the Ford, Mazda and bearing house, I ought to be able to get one tomorrow.

In the process of getting the drive train together on Birkin using Duratec 2.5. The steel shim over the aluminum flywheel is give me a fit as the hole don't quite like up but I think I have that licked. I looked down and realized I didn't have a pilot bearing in the rear of the crank as this engine came from an automatic car. Transmission is T9. I'm guessing that the Mazda F801-11-303, one used in early Miatas, is the one and there is a Mazda dealer down the street. Input?

Yep, I would see if it met the weight limit for checked baggage.

Not sure, I'll check. Thanks

I need to reinstall crankshaft damper/crank pulley on Duratec 2.5, I think it is the same as 2.3. Anyway I have torques specs (74 ft/lbs then 90 degrees more), got ARP bolt and washer, have everything lined up, bolt in side of block tool on back of cams, tensioner in place cams torqued to spec. 6mm bolt in hole through pulley into timing chain cover. What is the proper way to hold the crank stationary while doing this?

The 2.5 is rated 170 hp in the '12 Ford Focus. With the ATPower throttle bodies designed for the 2.5, Crower street cams, and the Birkin 4 into 1 headers I can't see how it will make less tha 200 hp. I will be running the Subaru 3.70 rear which gives about 140 mph at redline in 5th with the T9 transmission. Not real sure how launch will feel with T9 with just tall 1st. 2nd. The biggest pain with the 2.5 has been pulling head to get it modified for low profile cam cover.

Any way to check fuel pressure at the fuel rail.

Another option: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/aerovoltz4.php

Something to consider is the new stretched Birkin, I think 3" wider and 3" longer.

Thanks!

Got the EGR blocked off with plate from Massive. Threaded plug is on exhaust/passenger side. PM sent.

O.K. building Birkin with Duratec 2.5 power. There is a treaded plug in the side of the block, right side near rear. I think you can use a block heater in the hole. What size is it? I need to use it for the coolant temp sensor probably with a 1/8 npt or 3/8 npt single wire sensor for the coolant temperature gage.

:bigear:

Bunker Hill and nearby Old Ironsides (USS Constitution) in Boston. Martin Guitar Factory and museum in Nazareth, PA (also Mario Andretti's home).

What are folks doing for a dipstick on the Duratec using the Raceline sump? It came with a fitting, pipe thread on one end 3/8" barb on the other.

It is under the differential at the junction of the rear brake lines.

A quick way to diagnose between spark and fuel is to spray a little starting fluid into the intake. If it fires momentarily it is a fuel problem. The things on the spark plugs are stick coils. You can pull one off and stick something metal, small, round like a small phillips screwdrive up into it and short it against the engine to see if you have spark.

I have a surface that is level front to rear and side to side. I have never had a car I could really adjust so this will be my first attempt. I already use this surface and the tools I have to check/adjust camber, caster and toe on C7 Corvette. I'm running Toyo R888R (195/50-15) on 15x7 wheels. The tire literature say they like negative 1 -3 camber. I planned to start at 2. Any recommendations? And maybe 20 psi (cold).

Texas has pockets of liberals like Austin and the Rio Grande Valley. Kinda like rattle snakes they den up. I think I might just get one more scale so I will have two scales. I am more interested in the side to side balance than the front to rear. On the horizontal thing, the scale(s) I'm using are digital. I think I will using them with some makeshift turning plates, two pieces of vinyl tile 12x12 with some talc in between to allow for some lateral motion.

Texas is very liberal, no fender, no windshield, no hood required.

Hmmm. I measured my scale. It is 1 foot square and about 1 1/4" thick. I need to build 3 dummy scales.

. . . well, partial wrap. I'm building a bare bones Birkin I picked up from Tom mid February, no interior, no fenders, no windshield, no heater, Kirkey seats. I was going to paint the nose some sort of metallic silver color to match the bare aluminum body. Someone suggest a wrap might look better. I found something that looks pretty good 3M "Brushed Aluminum", imagine that! Anyway, I'm wet sanding the nose with a 180 grit flexible sanding pad. I had planned on priming it but I might not have to. There are a couple of gouges and a little indentation where the badge is supposed to go I'm gonna give a little touch of filler. Gonna paint the inside flat black. Because the tail lights are normally in the fenders I'm running some sealed led trailer lights that incorporate a license plate light, very bright, very light, very weatherproof, very cheap. It is looking like I might pull off a 3 month build if I don't get hung up on the engine. Head is with Tom for machine work. All the big parts are either in my hands or Toms with the exception of the sump. The 7s have gained weight over then years. I'm curious how much this one will weigh when I'm done. I found a really clever bathroom scale, digital, relatively cheap, measures up to 400 lbs. I have one and plan to buy another so I can weigh the car one end at a time. I will have to take it to a weigh station to get a weight slip as part of the registration process buy they only weigh to 10 lbs accuracy but they do give you a front/rear split.

The is gonna work out like Top Gear.

The faired in headlights are interesting. I wonder what they weigh?