Lotusfan

Sorry, can't help you out. My car has a cable clutch. My problem turned out to be that the release bearing that was installed was not correct. I had ordered a replacement to have on hand when I had the engine out and when I compared them, the new one was a bit thicker. With it installed, the problem went away.

Promised to alpinaturbo.

Obviously there would be quite a bit of leeway in the shifter to brake opening. A guess on center to center for the brake lever to gearshift would be 12". I don't know what model it would have been from for sure, but since it came with the seat pads from Caterham Tillets a good guess would be S3 rather than SV.

Leather tunnel cover for central handbrake car. Leather is perfect but foam backing is disintegrating. Free + Shipping. Probably easy but fussy to glue a new foam backing on. I got it along with leather seat pads on eBay and have no use for it as my car has an under dash brake. http://www.usa7s.net/vb/blob:http://www.usa7s.net/1bf1808a-3dd7-4cfd-a82d-5a9d7ebb269a

Depends on what your driving skills are you want to do with it, but driving it and getting to know it before dropping $$$ on more power upgrades is never going to be a bad idea. My opinion is that any Caterham can be more fun and car than 99% of drivers out there. Less HP, less tire. More HP, more tire. On the street, too much HP and tire can actually be less fun.

The valve cover color is not a reliable indication of the Swindon state of tune. I bought my car from the original owner who bought the kit from Sevens and Elans and who kept all of the original paperwork. 1993, H in the 7th digit, 218HP Swindon engine with red cover, QR Racetech wheel as an option, specified to delete seats and delivered with standard bench type seat as owner was tall. As Mike has said though, just enjoy the car.

Congrats on a great purchase and an fantastic road trip plan! A couple of things to consider in planning your pick up... If you decide to go with the aero screen, will the tonneau fit with the aero screen in place? If you decide to go with the windscreen, think about mirrors. The mirrors that are on the aero screen will need some fussing with the mounts to use them with the windscreen and will the doors still work with however you mount them? Running with the doors on and windscreen is tremendously more comfortable on longer rides than without the doors and would be my choice, but I've never had the aero experience to compare (I think I'd have to wear a full face helmut and shield or worry constantly about a rock or bug). SPA mirrors fit easily on the windscreen and work with the doors on or off (I have an extra set if you're interested). Does the car have a center mirror? With the harness on, you can't easily see over your shoulder and I think that you're actually more invisible than on a motorcycle because you're lower to the ground and below the nightlines of trucks and SUV's. It's been on the track for years - Does the horn and do all of the lights work? You should also think about mounting a third brake light onto the roll bar - Just a few minutes if you have what you need. Congrats again - I envy your epic trip plan!

Got the wheels some time ago. Sorry, I didn’t post to close out this discussion.

While I don’t intentionally go out in the rain, where I live rain is unavoidable. How bad are those Toyo’s in the wet? Also, 6” is within the recommended specs for 205 tires, is there really that much of a downside to that combination? thanks again for the replies!

Thanks for the reply and suggestion which I'll keep for my vintage rides, but for my Caterham I'm more interested in handling and the feel. Thoughts on 185/70 v. 205/60 or should I go 185/60 and then just change the ride height? I think the gear ratios as they are are about right so I was inclined to keep the same rolling diameter. Thanks

Bumping this thread. I just bought a set of 13x6 Panasports to change my "93 16" 205/45x16 out. Primarily street use. Suggestions on 185/70x13 tires, Kuhmo or Vredestein available or 205/60x13 Goodrich or Vredestein available at Tire Rack. Other vendors to check or size suggestions? Thanks!

There are two smaller books that say Lotus Dennis Ortenberger. If you can send me details on those please. Thanks. Ken

Bumping this thread. Still looking for the set of 13” wheels. If I have to look for new, what would the offset to look for be for Panasports and source in the US?

I’d like the mirrors if atill available. Pm sent

Thanks, Dave. PM didn’t come through for some reason. Please try to send again.

Thanks, but looking for street wheels.

Looking for a set of 13" Wheels for a DeDion. 4x108 Ideally Caterham 8 spokes but let me know what you might have. Thanks

Here's the link to the register, http://www.lotus7register.co.uk/regipage.htm

Make sure you let the Lotus Seven register know that your car has been stolen. Someone buying it may check with him to determine authenticity and that may help catch to low life who stole it. I hope that it isn't parted out and that it doesn't have it's identity wiped away. So few of the real thing. Good luck.

Had time to test whether it is an overextension problem causing the clutch to drag and it isn’t. Will start taking things apart tomorrow. Another question though, why would warming things up make the problem worse, ie when first started getting into reverse works ok, possibly without the clutch arm hitting the bell housing in it’s full extension. After the car is fully warmed up and taken a few trips up and down the driveway, reverse is much harder to get into, requiring the full travel of the clutch arm until it is hard up against the bellhousing and then getting reverse only with a bit of a grind.

Wayne, This is all a bit over my head so apologies if this is a stupid question. When you say pivot arm bolt is that the same thing as the clutch arm fulcrum pin which is attached to the bellhousing? I’ve seen a picture of the inside of the bellhousing and there is a washer behind this pin and I can appreciate how that would change the throw on the clutch arm. I’m interested in your solution on how to make it externally adjustable. Thanks.

If it has to be an engine out, I certainly want it to be just once!

That's interesting. How did you know that was the problem? I added a pedal stop to stop the arm at the bell housing and that made it impossible to get into any gear telling me that the clutch was really not disengaging.

Question about a T9 5 speed with a cable clutch. In adjusting the clutch cable when I was having trouble getting into reverse, I've found that the clutch release arm is hitting the bell housing and has actually put a small notch into it where it hits. It has to go this far in order to fully disengage the clutch, and I'm not sure that even then the clutch is fully disengaging as reverse is still a bit difficult. Is there an adjustment that I'm missing or is this a sign that the arm has somehow bent? Could the release bearing be causing this? Any suggestions? Thanks.