SENC

Whether silhouette or front-on, I prefer the minimalist approach. Headlights are part of the distinctiveness, to me, and worth the extra busy-ness - rollbars not as much (IMO).

I like that idea, too. There 7 someway mimics the sngle of the windshield.

I like simple too. I think I'd like green better than red... and someone with some artistic talent could do a lot better, but conceptually...

I'm no artist so can't draw or design it, but I've always thought the front view of the 7 was among it's most unique and distinctive. A more artistic rendering of the following that uses "USA" as the windshield and "7s" as the grill?

If they are Lotus 7 parts (vs Caterham - or other), you might reach out to Ted Taylor. He buys and resells parts for old Lotus, and is relatively close in Delaware, as I recall. http://taylormadeclassiccars.com/parts/lotuschassistypeparts.html I have no affiliation with Ted, but have bought a few used parts from him over the years. Otherwise, hopefully a MD-based member might see this and offer assistance.

The "2"s would be of that time. My 7 has "2"s with numbers matching the Lotus logbook.

I've had the same experience.

I'll be at my shop later this morning and will grab a couple pictures for you for comparison, but as others have suggested I think you'd have noticed other chassis or aluminum mods if they move things back 6". The most visibly obvious would be gearshift location in the car, exhaust outlet hole in port-side aluminum, and chassis/firewall entry point for the gearbox (I don't recall exactly, but I'm certain my gearbox couldn't go backwards anywhere close to 6" before fouling on the chassis).

Ugh, what a loss!

Here's how mine was done (likely when it lived in Australia), in the event it helps...

I'm sure others will disagree, but if you're aligning for toe, it isn't worth huge effort to get perfectly level. Digital levels are nice, but a long spirit level or even a short spirit level on a long, flat board are perfectly sufficient if you want to get close. But IMO for toe, the main thing is to make sure the surface isn't horribly uneven/sloped and shifting the cars weight. Loading the drivers seat with body weight is more important for toe than getting level within 1/4" or so. If you're also doing camber (and caster), then sneaking up on level is more important.

I missed the measurement "by front tire bulge to rear tire bulge". I'm not sure how you'd determine toe in or out without 2 measurements per wheel (preferably at the wheel), and tire bulge suggests to be 1 measurement at each. Comparing front to rear rather than side to side is also confusing. Perhaps TLK can clarify and we can help better.

I'm an Android user (Samsung Flip), and downloaded their beta app for Android. It's not as "fancy" as the iPhone screenshots in the video, though that may also be part of buying the package. I did the initial sensor test and the app reported more variance than ideal. I then did the parallel surface test (start on a flat vertical service to get initial "lock", rotate it 10 degrees or more while keeping it on the same flat plane, return to the same vertical surface) and could see the variance visually. I think I have an app on my phone that recalibrates the gyro sensors and will play with that some tomorrow and try again, but it may be that my phone sensors have different tolerances than the iPhones for which the product appears designed. Notwithstanding the above, it's pretty easy to see how you can prove to yourself it would (or wouldn't) be accurate enough for you by mimicking the movements and choosing 2 known parallel surfaces for the 4 wheel readings. I'd be interested in findings of others, if you try it out. Very cool and simple. Hope I can get it to work on my phone or that future software enhancements allow calibration to more phone/sensors types.

Now that is a cool product! Have you (or anyone else here) tried it? I may download the app just to check it out.

Are you saying there is rear toe-in only one 1 side? Assuming you have the Standard 10 live axle that would suggest to me an issue with axle location, perhaps from a bent or incorrectly installed radius arm? But I would expect toe-out on the opposite side in this case - and a tracking issue. If you're saying you have toe-in on both sides, then probably as designed. I don't remember checking mine. The live axle doesn't have provision for toe adjustment. But if you look at other Lotus of the period (like the Europa) that have independent rear suspension with ability to adjust, the manual specs are for a small toe-in (1/8" on the S2 Europa).