SkinnyG

I had a similar issue of the fronts locking on my Locost when I was autocrossing it. I tried all sorts of solutions, but the best fix, hands-down, was switching to dual (dissimilar bore) master cylinders and a balance bar. Still keeping a proportioning valve on the rears, the brakes are now beautifully adjustable and I can dial the brakes to do whatever I need them to do. Dual masters and a balance bar were probably the best improvement I made to my Locost.

High CO and HC means running rich. The cam could certainly be contributing to this, as could tune. Are you running a catalytic converter? A cat and a good tune might be enough to squeak through.

Do you feel it was "Christianity" that did untold damage, or the "people in charge at the time?" What are your thoughts on "western culture," "wealth" and "materialsim" being a contributing factor towards the drop in church attendance?

Does the diagonal on the Volvo count?

"Local" counts me out. Who's next in line....?

How narrow is "narrow"? By "not perfect" are we talking scratches and "use", or are we talking cracks and "defects"?

Or maybe you just "finished" the kit this year. And it will be titled as a new construction 1957. Did you keep your receipts?

I have a bluetop 4AGE in my Locost 7. If I were to do it over, I would have just bought a JDM blacktop or silvertop and NOT rebuilt mine. It would have been cheaper, and have more power. However, since I am doing this all again, Locost 7 #2 has a Duratec in the shed. Bigger, better, cheaper, easier to replace, and a "current" and thriving aftermarket.

I've had GL5 gearlube in a GL4-spec transmission by mistake, it started eating the synchros, but not a shift gate issue. Perhaps it's something else? I can't see the oil doing that....

I tried corner-balancing mine to 50/50 cross weights, but I kept locking up the RF wheel on braking (quite a spread between front weights). I later corner-balanced it so the FRONT weights were 50/50, and braking seemed better. But I haven't autocrossed it much since then (2008), or done any further testing.

I made my own toe plates for even less. Yes - they work great!

Some measurements I wrote down a while back of the 2.0 in my shed. They ~should~ be reasonably accurate. Pan to crank: 9" Crank to top: 17.5" Height: 26.5" Pulley to bellhousing flange: 20" Width @ crank @ front: 13" The 2.3 is for sure taller (but I don't have one to measure).

Try lower pressures. On Toyos, I've always found higher pressures let go quicker and are harder to reel back in. Low pressures let go more gradually.

If you treat the tires with it, will they stick better in the wet?

I have! I bought a set of 20.5x7x13's from him a few years back. No idea how much use they had. They were "as described", and the transaction was fine. I'd do it again. I soaked them with 50% Xylene and 50% Toluene to put some life back in them. Certainly cheap, though, compared to buying slicks new.