Marek

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Look for SFI "dual durometer" padding. It has inner and outer sections where the outer is less dense. Pegasus lists it as, "Dual Durometer SFI 45.1 Roll Bar Padding"

Another simple option for turning plates (to make the front wheels turn easily) is a square of linoleum (or other tile) lubricated with a spray bottle of soapy water.

I have this exact one. It measured out square, flat, and straight and has been repeatable and accurate for me. If ordering one, I would check it before relying on it. Now stringing a car or using plates, regardless of the tools you use, does depend more on the attention to detail of the user than an automated rack. My own opinion is the reviews are probably more a comment on the users and their cars than the plates. I've been stringing cars under various professional conditions for a long time, so my confidence might be higher than for some; but the technique is simple to learn. Most importantly, adjust the tips on the plates such that the plate is square to the wheel and they don't move between measurements. Make sure your measurements are repeatable.

One easy and accurate option is to align your Seven with a basic set of plates and tapes. For $35 you can find something like: https://www.ebay.com/itm/114130836633

A Seven with a rotary, but I am confident not a Rotus - the front suspension is outboard and the nose and front bodywork are all wrong. Note the Mazda Cosmos sitting behind it.

@Reiver I've read the one notable downside of shipping containers for car storage is they can be quite hot and retain the heat. What is your experience? Does the pole barn help or solve it?

If I suspect coolants have been mixed, what is the advice on effective flushing of the complete system? A good flush is on my winter list. The coolant is off color and cooling efficiency has not been good with this car. So best to reset and start from a known place.

All-white harnesses have become common in professional motorsports. They are often labeled with colored bands according to the EIA color code. When built to a high and consistent standard, they are easy to work with. I have also seen harnesses use white and grey only; where one denoted the low current/higher gauge leads and the other the higher current/lower gauge leads.

The sources are much appreciated. I especially like your modular design. I am hesitant to over engineer the electrics in my car and going modular would be a good way to modernize yet keep maintenance within reach of a future owner. The Cartek is very simple, highly reliable, and very affordable. I understand the attraction. I've looked at the AiM, Motec, Blink Marine, and MicroPDM PDMs as well. Motec is always a great choice. But with a MicroPDM I could easily afford to carry a spare. Tough choices. The integrated logging of the AiM boxes is interesting as I would like to look at improving the engine and charge cooling in this car and logging would be a big help.

Thanks, Dave, for starting this thread. I am just now sourcing materials for a similar project. Could you share sources? My own experience was a 6 year career detour into professional sportscar racing. I started in data engineering and driver coaching and it later evolved into all manner of car electronics and harnessing. I still have my Daniels crimpers and other tools, but have found my parts sources are out of date. Recently, I've been using prowireusa.com as well as milspecwiring.com. I see you chose CarTek PDMs - I am curious why they were your preference. I don't see a fuse or breaker box in your pictures. What route did you choose for circuit protection? For anyone looking for a good background read, I recommend https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html.

The 85.5-91 Porsche 944 has all the same advantages at a much lower cost and better supply of used spares (look on FBMP for your local guy with a hoard behind the barn). I daily'ed a 944 from 2003-2016 and my son now daily drives the car.

Defenders and earlier G-Wagens are both excellent road-going tractors.

Option 3 is to not expect to rely upon OEM. Electrical systems in particular are well suited for modern replacements. Aftermarket PDMs have become quite sophisticated and ECUs options are plentiful. Of course this does assume we have a supply of shops with the needed skills. The odometer question for aftermarket dashes and ECUs deserves more investigation. Agreed the specific legality is often dismissed. But I recall there are conditions to replace a dash and satisfy the law. For example, 2021 updates to the Motor Vehicle Information and Cost Savings Act added flexibility to odometer rules for cars over 20 years old.

Performance Shock in Sonoma, CA. I have to believe there are small operations around with the knowledge and skill.