Marek

This seems like a situational problem to me as well. In the past ~6 weeks I've had shipments from The Netherlands, Germany, and Italy via UPS and DHL and from shippers accustomed to shipping to the US. One over the de minimis and the others below. All have been been quick and on time. As far as I can tell we aren't yet experiencing any significant shipping disruptions.

The nose is a clever take on the styling possibilities for a Seven by borrowing from decades predating the Seven. I see Healey Silverstone, Allard, and early 30s Ford Tudor hotrod.

Apologies for not posting the link.... https://www.odysseybattery.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/odyssey-installation-operation-and-maintenance-manual.pdf The excerpt above is on page 10.

While the Odyssey is an AGM, not all AGMs are alike and Odyssey says their TPPL batteries require a specific charging profile. From the Odyssey manual: In order to recharge a battery that has been discharged, it is best to use an automatic charger with an AGM setting that has the appropriate charge voltage and current per recommendations. For optimum charging, the current output should at least 40% of the battery’s C10 rating. This means a battery that has a 10-hour rating of 100 amp hours should be charged with 40 amps. Charge current should never be less than 10% of the battery’s C10 rating. Voltages higher than 15.0 volts will cause irreversible damage to the battery. Please refer to Figure 2 below for a graphical representation of the recommended charge profile for ODYSSEY AGM2 batteries used in non-starting applications The NOCO chargers I tried would not provide the 14.7 volts. The battery would charge, but not within the Odyssey specs.

This thread helped me address a problem I did not realize I had; as so often happens on this forum. It convinced me to add lightness. My Seven came with a heater, but not connected and the fan does not work. I did intended to fix it eventually. But I've had to remove the cowl for other reasons and the heater is now out in the open just staring at me. This thread convinced me that removal is the obvious fix. In cool weather my lower body is never uncomfortable. And with a barchetta-height windshield, no heater is going to affect my upper body.

Yes, get a CTEK or Schauer; the preferred options on Odyssey's approved list of chargers. Both will use the multi-step charging profile recommended by the manufacturers of these batteries.

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Look for SFI "dual durometer" padding. It has inner and outer sections where the outer is less dense. Pegasus lists it as, "Dual Durometer SFI 45.1 Roll Bar Padding"

Another simple option for turning plates (to make the front wheels turn easily) is a square of linoleum (or other tile) lubricated with a spray bottle of soapy water.

I have this exact one. It measured out square, flat, and straight and has been repeatable and accurate for me. If ordering one, I would check it before relying on it. Now stringing a car or using plates, regardless of the tools you use, does depend more on the attention to detail of the user than an automated rack. My own opinion is the reviews are probably more a comment on the users and their cars than the plates. I've been stringing cars under various professional conditions for a long time, so my confidence might be higher than for some; but the technique is simple to learn. Most importantly, adjust the tips on the plates such that the plate is square to the wheel and they don't move between measurements. Make sure your measurements are repeatable.

One easy and accurate option is to align your Seven with a basic set of plates and tapes. For $35 you can find something like: https://www.ebay.com/itm/114130836633

A Seven with a rotary, but I am confident not a Rotus - the front suspension is outboard and the nose and front bodywork are all wrong. Note the Mazda Cosmos sitting behind it.

@Reiver I've read the one notable downside of shipping containers for car storage is they can be quite hot and retain the heat. What is your experience? Does the pole barn help or solve it?

If I suspect coolants have been mixed, what is the advice on effective flushing of the complete system? A good flush is on my winter list. The coolant is off color and cooling efficiency has not been good with this car. So best to reset and start from a known place.

All-white harnesses have become common in professional motorsports. They are often labeled with colored bands according to the EIA color code. When built to a high and consistent standard, they are easy to work with. I have also seen harnesses use white and grey only; where one denoted the low current/higher gauge leads and the other the higher current/lower gauge leads.