KnifeySpoony

I made on the thread on the install: I left the solid line in the car in case I ever want to go back. I figure if I always ran the valve open and it interfered with pedal feel, I could just pull it out and revert to the old line. Oh and I had it backwards - when the valve is set to minimum rear brake, you can feel the mechanism reduce flow, hence "hitting the wall".

Just finished this and bled the system today. I do think the valve does something to the pedal feel. Sitting in the garage, when i press the brake, if the bias valve is open you can hear and feel a click within the valve and you can also feel it in the pedal. Like the pedal hits a wall and firms up. But if the valve is closed to max, no noise and more consistent/natural pedal feel. Not sure if it will be noticeable in track though. Did you ever do the upgrade?

Must resist urge to buy spares...

Sorry to derail thread, but does anyone know if the BMW diff LSD can be serviced/rebuilt without pulling the diff?

So after pondering this for a couple years, then my hand being forced by the abysmal quality of the stock Sierra calipers and shockingly short pad life in the rear, I finally upgraded the Caterham uprated brake kit. The hard part of this is installing the (supposedly mandatory) bias valve. Most of my trepidation was due to my complete ignorance and fear of brake line fittings/flares etc. Thankfully DPR Motorsports in the UK agreed to sell me their flexible line kit with all premade lines to simplify the install. Still need to bleed and leak check but it's all in. Pics below. Will give updates on braking performance and pad life as I go.

Yeah I've read 1-1.5x diameter of screw when going into steel. With both washers I'm just under 1x so I definitely need to make a change of some kind.

Loctite not enough to make up for lack of the lock washer?

Question for the learned folks here. I am doing the uprated rear brake upgrade and part of it requires new dedion alloy endplate "ears". I am going from 2deg to 2.5deg ears -because of this, the plate is thicker on the bottom (and is thicker on top too for some reason). Because of the thickness, the two most-rearward bolts that attach the ear to the dedion tube are a bit short. They are advised to have a flat washer and a split lock washer. See pic below for a picture of a stock setup. If I use both of the washers, I'm only getting like 4 threads of engagement - if I omit one of them, I get about 6 threads of engagement, which seems to be enough, but I'm happy to be corrected. Which washer is more important? My thought was omit the flat washer then it will be locked on but with a smaller area to distribute force. If I omit the lock washer, then I could use loctite on the bolt but not sure if that is really equivalent. I can get a longer bolt but they come in 5mm intervals and the hole in the dedion is a blind hole and not deep enough so I'd have to cut some of the bolt off. Thanks all

In my 420R I'm running Zerex G05 (since the beginning). Run it at the track too - it's not like bike trackays where coolant is banned. BTW running the proper coolant is no guarantee of a healthy radiator. The radiators on our cars are prone to failure/leaks. My first rad only lasted about 3k miles. When I put the second one on, I changed the upper hose from that rigid rubber hose to a more flexible silicone hose, as a few blatchatters have done (using a 620R top hose). Theory being that the radiator is under stress and flexing itself to failure. So far so good.

The bracket is held on by the upper control arm bolt;

I've even heard of some people running 10w60 in Duratecs.

Won't somebody please think of the children!

Wow, rare car and with an SB100 sticker...

How much track time is that and how much power is your car making?

Which pads in the rear? OEM pads I went through in 8 days, so I "upgraded" to Ferodo DS3000 and only was getting 5 days. And one of those sets had catastrophic failure on the 5th day (completely crumbled off of the backplate)