KnifeySpoony

I did the brush on stuff on the underside of my rear wings when I built my car to try to prevent star cracks in the GRP. I did a few coats but it is chipping up quite a bit after just a couple years. I doubt it would last well on the front of the wings, which really take a beating. But maybe my product was just not a good one or I didn't get enough on there. You would need a super thick, rubbery layer to perform well I would think.

Slosh is definitely a factor. The starve doesn't happen until after a certain amount of time on track; quicker on stickier tires, slower to happen on less sticky tires. I think I will just drop in a new pump and see what happens. Simple job and no complexity added. The only challenge is that stupid little connector. Oh and tariffs. Thanks all for your guidance. If the pump doesn't fix it, I'll be back, probably ready to redesign the whole fuel system. Shudder...

I mean, I hate adding complexity, and I'm extraordinarily lazy/dislike "projects" or "upgrades", unlike most of my car-modding/racing peers. So my inclination is to just drop in another pump, if that's likely to solve the issue. It just seems odd that the pump would already be failing in a 4 year old car with 5k miles on it, when they go for 150k miles in a focus/etc...

I don't have a port on the rail - will a port/bung need to be welded on? Also what do you recommend for a simple datalogger?

I fixed the float, which fell off into the tank. I have that external fuel pump module thing on outside of the tank. I'm just not sure why I this issue arose. I never had fuel starve before. What is likely to be failing?

Yeah I wondered what was it doing out there. It almost looked like it was on a nearby road lol....

Switched back to hard compound ZZR and still getting apparent starve, but not quite as quickly. Still nothing like the car was behaving previously. Trying to figure out the best way to diagnose before I just throw a new fuel pump in hoping that's the issue (or is that the best strategy?). I could tap the fuel rail for an electronic fuel pressure meter, then monitor for dropouts. Anything that can be done via easymap to confirm that fuel supply is actually the issue?

Not sure, it was a few years ago. IIRC I went to hardware store and got a few sizes to experiment with.

I had to buy some different P clips and custom bend them to work well. The top mount of oil tank was still too high so I shimmed it with some washers

Nice glad it's sorted. BTW what the heck was that red car at 2:05?

My build was 2021. I am on the older ECU, I think it's the 9A4. I am black injectors, even though they sent me the green injectors with my roller barrel kit. My ECU is meant to run on the black injectors even with the roller barrels. My idle is between 1000-1100.

Your DMV person definitely didn't understand what you were trying to do. What does it say on the reg/title re: model/year of car? I would be concerned if I was in your situation tbh. You may end up with a real problem when you get a smog notice if they think it's a model 2024 year car. At that point it's too late to reg as SPCNS afaik.

My 420R on roller barrels is nothing like this. It pulls smoothly from idle and has immediate throttle response at any RPMs. Is your car a new/recent build? If so I would press your dealer/CC about it. Are you at altitude? I wonder if that could play a role as well. I would be very frustrated if I were you - if a warranty claim is not an option, I would consider going standalone ECU and having a pro tune it. Will be pricey and possibly inconvenient but at least the car will be right.

By sticker do you mean the SB100 sticker, or just the reg sticker? In the past, the SB100 sticker came straight from the BAR inspector, not DMV. You def need the SB100 exemption or you will get a smog check notice (although not for 8 years).

I did Alameda county sheriff, and BAR in Livermore and had good experiences.