KnifeySpoony

You need to change the dipswitches on the back of the tach.

Re: the ECU flash - one of the first files they sent me was incorrect and the heated seats didn't work - they had to update and send another file. Re: the tach - does it not work at all, or just misreading? Definitely rebleed after first drive. Some bubbles always seem to materialize.

Not sure who are you actually replying to here? MV8 suggested nothing of the sort...

What was the approximate cost for that service?

Nice. Super slick looking

No idea, but I would run what you usually run and see how they do. Maybe a couple extra PSI given their warning about liking higher pressures.

I see you're also in the bay area. I also see you're running aeroscreen. I'm much more often too hot than too cold in the car. The car roasts you pretty well in anything above 60deg temps. I also don't have carpeting so the metal tunnel conducts heat really well to my right leg. In cold weather, more heat coming underneath the dash doesn't seem all that helpful to me if you're running an aeroscreen. There's so much turbulence at speed that warm air will not stay in the cockpit. On cold AM drives to fall trackdays it is wicked cold. I have heated seats but the cold turbulent air really sucks the heat out of you. However I can't imagine the heater would help all that much unless you are running a hood/sidescreens. Would be more useful to wear a heated jacket/gloves (which I am considering trying after a 36deg drive to Laguna one morning that just about killed me).

Flipping or getting otherwise launched isn't that uncommon with Caterham racing because of the exposed front wheels. I personally have made contact with another car on track (a tin top however) and was not launched thankfully. I should 100% have the full cage but I live dangerously.

You might be surprised how much belts stretch in a crash. That said we all have our risk tolerance. I don't have any padding on my bar. Even with a helmet (which I always wear in my car) it's not ideal from a safety perspective.

This is the tray. I used double stick tape to keep it from shifting on the old battery tray/platform. I also put some adhesive backed foam to line tray so the battery fits in snugly. I cut off the two tabs that were in the way. I also cut off the vertical tabs off the old platform, obviously. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09L2WFQVZ?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1 And this is the top bracket. The J hooks are extra long, I just cut off the excess. The hooks work perfectly in the side holes on the factory tray. I also chose this bracket as it does not interfere/cover the restart button on the battery (though I have yet to need it) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TZ365CD?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1 This setup has been rock solid for me. I initially wanted to have the battery laying down (for aesthetics only, as it's so light the weight up high really isn't an issue), but this was simpler and has worked out fine.

Not to dissuade either of you from that slick looking solution, but just fyi this is what I did for my car - I can provide links to parts if you are interested.

You have to deflect the bush enough to get the bolts in. Massive PITA and takes a lot of muscle/prying/hammering/swearing.

Thank you. Yeah the ride height/gearing consequences are a concern for me as well. Geometry wise, I'm ok raising my front (currently, my front is quite low, with LCA parallel to ground). Raising the rear is ok too but that would mean a smaller tire and shorter gearing. I'm right at the top of 4th on the longest straights on my 2 home tracks so I'd really prefer not to have to go to 5th (nitpicking I know). Why is rear ride height change an issue for you? Seems just as easy as the front. I'm as low as I can go on my spring perches on rear (actually I've removed the locking perch in able to go as low as I am currently), so any larger diameter tire in rear will require raising the front. I have also considered going to a 15" setup to run A7s in 205/225 but the diameters are quite a bit off. Would require new wingstays and front wings as well. Also I drive my car to the track, so driving on slicks is kinda sketchy. I'm severely grieving the loss of the ZZR in our sizes...

Tell me about the sizes on the R7s and slicks

My tach started having an issue yesterday. Was working earlier during a long drive, then at some pointed I noted that the tach was reading high, but still moving/responding generally normally. It seems to be reading about 1k too high. With the car off, the tach comes to rest at 1k, it's not zeroing out. Any thoughts? It's almost like i just jumped a tooth or something.