KnifeySpoony

Ah ok without any oil cooling it makes perfect sense. You may be able to get by doing autox with heavier oil, but i think you will definitely need a cooler for track work.

What is the oil cooling setup on that?

Hmm strange to see oil pressure drop like that -no oil temp gauge right? What oil weight? Seems strange for oil to get hot doing autocross (not very much extended high load/high rpm like on a big track). Granted I have a dry sump, but I would have a hard time ever getting my oil even warm doing autox.

Damn that sucks, what happened? The car looks very fixable - i've seen some gnarly crash vids of UK 7s racing with rapid repair and return to the track in short order.

Dry sump?

put PPF on the side panels - problem solved

oil cooler mounting brackets

Ok now, that I put in the RS14 up front, I have same pad material front and rear. First trackday today with this setup. The bias valve is now fully rearward - previously was in position 3/7. Now in 7/7. It does feel great and the pedal is even firmer, but I'm wondering if I could/should push the bias even more rearward to optimize even further. I suppose I could go to a more aggressive pad in rear at this point. Maybe splitting hairs though. It's just nice knowing that the bias is fully optimized, and to have wiggle room on either side from optimal baseline to adjust for conditions, tire wear etc. Also interesting is that with the RS14 I was seeing occasional mild pad knock-back, which I've never had with the car before.

I bent it towards the transmission tunnel so that I could brake without hitting the throttle at same time. Most people bend in the other axis, which it sounds like you might want to do if you can't adjust cable enough to get it where you like it. There's many mentions of this on UK build blogs/blatchat.

The free play bolt on the throttle pedal isn't really important (mine doesn't do anything the way it's set). The position of the throttle at the point where the cable slack is taken up is what is important. That is set by adjusting the throttle cable, and by bending the throttle pedal itself, which many people do. I bent mine towards the tunnel, but didn't need to bend it in the other axis to have it at a good height for heel toe.

Maybe Darren can weigh in on why the duct was removed, but on blatchat people talk about removing it to decrease underhood and footwell temperatures, and don't see any difference with coolant temps. Hard to measure front lift, but presumably that's the only benefit of the duct. If you're tracking the car the marginal benefit may be worthwhile.

Can you take a picture in your pedal box - your description of the position/orientation of the pedals doesn't seem right.

https://caterhamparts.co.uk/other/1724-radiator-ducting-csr-models.html

$60k - even though it would I think it would take 80k+ to replicate now. Prices have gone way up.

Just got my Hagerty renewal - premium went from $1046 to $1406. May have to shop around.

Don't ignore the effect of pad material on brake feel. The stock front pads that Caterham fit to my car are lifeless and wooden with zero bite when cold. I just put in some RS14s up front (to match the RS14 that come with the rear upgrade kit) and the difference is night and day. Not only do they bite wayyyyy harder (even when ice cold), but the pedal feel is much firmer.

Shame to see that SB100 sticker leave CA... pure gold right there. How many SB100 CSRs are there... not many I'd wager.

You can run a windshield with the SLR cage, but not with doors. You'd have to switch to a different cage/rollbar type if you want full weather gear.

yet more teasers

I just assumed they all did that. I would say i get spillage/overflow on at least half of all fill-ups.

Just for another data point, I calculated mileage after a fillup - got 23mpg on a highway cruise back from the track with some intermittent light traffic that kept speeds down a bit.

These cars have terrible aero. At over 100mph, mpg could drop pretty far...

My 420R with roller barrels (and Caterham tune) gets crap mileage. 70mph cruise doesn't even get 20mpg. I think around 15-18. Always been that way. That's with aeroscreen, no doors, sticky tires.

I wouldn't trust linearity of the gauge. Also, given that your gauge would read full with your prior filling technique, it suggests that you were probably getting the tank mostly full, unless your gauge is way off. I say drive it till you run out of gas (if practical), then you will actually know how much gas you've used to get to that point.

So have you ever driven it from "fully full" until empty, or tested the range since a true fill up?