KnifeySpoony

Sounds like a sweet build. What track(s) will this thing be terrorizing?

I thought the story was that these were supposed to be in between the A24 and A64? You're saying they feel the same as A64?

Yet another vote for coil loom - mine went bad and symptoms were identical

Diff install was a royal cunt for my build. I wish you godspeed.

That's a crazy rule. They won't let 5yo tires on track?

I think i have a pair in a box somewhere. LED version

For us Bay Areans, I have just heard that Roger Kraus has closed up shop...

Is yours' steel? I thought they were all plastic.

Ah gotcha. If you are getting a 7 to track a lot, I would definitely go for a dry sump car if you can. Oiling on track is a challenge for many "normal" street cars once they are modded to go fast. Having the dry sump is a nice "luxury" of 7 ownership if you get one fitted as such imo.

Is this in an exocet? Isn't that transversely mounted? That could make a difference re: starve compared to longitudinal applications.

Given that NC miatas run basically the same motor with wet sump, presumably they do OK for light track duty. However a 7, even on 200tw will generate more lateral grip so I would be cautious. Modern 200TW tires are very sticky.

Ah gotcha. I would say whether or not you will end up upgrading rear brakes depends on your pace and how often you track the car. Certainly no need to do anything at this point. I would run at least a few days and see how your pad wear is. Unless you are a driving god (some people are), you will be learning the car and it will probably take a couple days to learn the car and start really pushing. If you find the rear pads are vanishing before your eyes, then you may start thinking about upgrading. Keep in mind, you will lose the handbrake, and you have to plumb in a bias valve if you do the "factory" race rear brake upgrade. I have a thread on it. For ride heights, I am at 119F/138 rear. This puts my front LCA parallel with ground. Rear can't go any lower with my current dampers - To get this low I had to remove one of the collars, and the remaining collar is wound all the way down. Your cup spring rates are the same as my "track" setup (250/215), but your damper design is different and has helper springs, so you probably have much more adjustment range to go lower. I haven't felt the desire to go lower in the rear, my balance is good where it's at. Very neutral with just a hint of high speed push so you can really lean on it with confidence.

You can get 2.5 ears for the standard rear brakes AFAIK. FYI the wheel bears like to self-immolate during disassembly, so if/when you do the ears, make sure you have a spare set of bearings ready to go on. Shims are another option- I have them but decided to just swap ears. I would run a season on the stock rear brakes and see how you get one. Then decide if you want to upgrade. If you start having pads crumbling apart after 4 days, or the caliper puking all its fluid at once, it will make the decision easier...

FYI as per my comment above, for fasteners that go through powder-coated parts, a paint mark check is not sufficient. The bolt/head can not have moved and it can still be loose.

I frequent Laguna/Sonoma and here are my takes Brakes - Bite/braking force will be fine once you get them up to temp. The rear brakes eat pads and are generally poor quality (I had 2 different rear calipers seals fail, one of them catastrophically, early in the car's life). Laguna is especially hard on brakes. Depending on your pace, you will probably want to upgrade the rear brakes. If not plan on replacing pads frequently. The front pads last forever Alignment- Front camber between 2.5 and 3.0. I prefer the feel of zero toe, but that's down to preference. Standard rear camber ears are 1.5deg and that is not enough for track work. Car will feel ok, but you will get very uneven wear. I swapped to 2.5deg ears and have perfect rear wear now. Sway bar - which suspension setup do you have? Rear ARB is easy to play with at the track. Leave front alone for now. If car balance is way off on your first day, you can adjust the rear bar to try to compensate. Rake/ride height is your other major lever here to adjust balance Tire pressure - agree with around 23-25 hot. Check after every session Cooling - It takes a LONG time to get the oil up to temp and the oil is overcooled for anything but hard running on warm days. Idling for 10 min from cold will have water up to temp, but oil will be still be barely above ambient. Once warmed in the AM session, it will retain some heat and come up to temp much quicker. I block off the oil cooler for the first AM session (as well as the drive to the track in AM). Make sure to do a proper spanner check. Any fasteners that go through powder coat (there are many) will loosen. Check your engine mounts, suspension arms etc