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Clutch: Powertrain Technololgy 7.25 3 disc clutch and button flywheel (3 discs x .105" thick / 1-5/32" x 26 tooth / Chevy LS V-8) ( CH316A1Z90) with Button Flywheel (FH105) 7.25 Discs -Ceramettalic (3pk .105 6R, 2E+1C Zsprintgs with Bolt Kit NK105166) 1 https://www.powertraintech.com/collections/clutches-flywheel/products/7-25-clutch-flywheel?variant=32944934092940 500 Powertrain Tech 168t Flexplate 1 Clutch, Button Flywheel, flexplate all bought on facebook marketplace 0 Throwout Bearning (Hydro-MAX drop-in floating HRB for small diameter racing clutches, 1.385" ID Standard Height - OAL 2.28 - 3.03" / With external bleeder kit, no supply line) RH7101 part number 1 https://www.powertraintech.com/collections/hydraulic-release-bearings/products/hydro-max-drop-in-floating-hrb-for-small-diameter-racing-clutches-1-385-id?variant=33664925663372 333 Clutch Alignment Tools (Ram Clutches 03-013 Steel Alignment Tool) 1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008LX9WJS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 49 Allstar - ALL46100-24 -3 24" Clutch Line Kit (NE -3 AN STRAIGHT END AND ONE 3/16 INVERTED FLARE 90 END) 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009Q750Q2?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details 27 Detailed install instructions are above with pics. I love the 7.25 inch lightweight flywheel. Car spins up so quickly and also helps with engine braking which allows me to carry more spread before and into a turn. Triple disk is overkill as a single disk can hold 400hp/torque but I got crazy deal on the kit off of facebook so I guess if I every decide to add twin turbo's I am set!

Transmission: Tremex TKX TCET17722 GM close Ratio https://www.speedwaymotors.com/TREMEC-TCET17722-TKX-Close-Ratio-5-Speed-GM-Manual-Transmission,452008.html?utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwJWdBhCYARIsAJc4idCLaTZyTE2LFj- sJ41h306pYWq6Yn6NQH4dLeaKryFbgKJPCvaBhlYaAt_5EALw_wcB 2655 Sonax 31 spline 1350 size slipyoke https://www.sonnax.com/parts/3347-slip-yoke 100 original driveshaft is a 1310 size so if you get this you will also need the moog uJoint listed below MOOG 348 U-joint size 1310 (driveshaft) to 1350 (sonnax slip yoke) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N8NIWQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details 25 again driveshaft side is 1310 so make sure you match this to your selected yoke Transmission Mount - Duralast 2268 Autozone 8 Bell housing GM 621 Offcially Licensed Repro from MelroseCorvette.com 1 https://www.amazon.com/Melrose-T-Top-Int-Licensed-Bellhousing/dp/B00LNEQCPE 189 Not much to say here but the TKX transmission is great. About 100lbs so 25 heavier than the old T5 but can handle up to 600hp and Torgue or more. Remember to get the close ratio part listed above. It is so nice to be able to use a 5th gear now! The old t5 it was pointless and 5 was overdrive ratio.

Never finished my postings for the next guy that does the conversion but I will say I HIGHLY recommend it. The LS power is fantastic. Driveability is the same and it is so nice to be able to keep up with and pass most folks out there again! Below are the rest of my parts list and other knowledge gain from doing the conversion and tracking the car for 2 years now!

Didn’t see the car you mention but 2 years ago at the Porsche club track day at wwt raceway one of the members told me he had ordered a 620. Maybe ask around the pca circles.

Oiling system - Oil Pan: I went with a went sump system for two reasons, 1 Cost of a dry sump system and 2 not knowing how i would make the dry sump pump and tank fit. Having had oiling issues on my C6Z06 I wanted to have as much protection as possible short of the dry sump. For that I wanted to have a 'racing baffled' oil pan and an Accusump / Oil Accumulator system that would feed oil it need it in a turn. Important Learnings: Oil Pan Height/Depth is VERY important. You want the shallowest pan you can get. Scott Minehart recommends the stock LS3 pan with is 4 5/8inches deep. I did not want that pan as it does not have racing baffles and only holds 5 quarts. Plus looking at the design of the pan I am still confused on how oil doesn't get stuck in 'valleys' away from the pickup tube. See pic below. I found other online pics and could see any holes to allow oil out of those areas to the pickup tube area. I originally bought and installed a beautiful Moroso Oil Pan that was 6 inches deep/tall. I figured the extra inch and 3/8s would hurt but trust me it does. After lightly scraping the pan a few times I removed that pan and went with the Kevko Pan listed in the parts section above. The Kevko pan is 5 inches deep and race baffled to keep the oil next to the pickup tube. This fit great and lined up with the bottom of the bellhousing. I HIGHLY recommend installing the oil pan before the transmission. The Two oil pan bolts in between the bellhousing and pan took me 90minutes to screw in. Still not sure I could do it again. To get those two I had to use a flexible screw driver with a socket bit on top. Even fitting the bit and screwdriver in was extremely difficult.

Here is the final Parts List for my setup. Oiling System: Oil Pan Kevko LS1002 f-body race baffled 5 inch deep oil pan with spin on filter 1 https://kevkoracing.com/products/ls-f-body-5-deep?variant=12379420426302 475 Oil Pickup Tube Kevko LS-1002-1 for 5" deep pan 1 https://kevkoracing.com/products/ls-103 120 Oil Pan Gasket (GM Genuine Parts 12612350) 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014O1IJW6?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details 33 Oil Filter (13/16-16 thread size) ACDelco GM Original Equipment PF46E Engine Oil Filter Parts master 61042 (3inches tall) alternatives that may be work but could be taller, Fram HM3506, purolator l14006, wix61042, champ PH44 1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00496ILZC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 11 Accusump 3qt and Mounting Brackets 1 FaceBook Marketplace 200 Accusump AN10 Hoses and Connectors 1 old LS7 stuff 0 Runs from front of engine to accusump Stock LS1 windage Tray 1 part of engine purchase 0 GM Genuine Parts 12677837 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076JKKG4P?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details 38 attached near accusump in pics m16x1.50 male oring to 10 AN male (for accusumpt feed into LS block oil galley) 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B7BM1862?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details 11 installed at front of engine on drivers side LS Oil Pump Pickup Tube Girdle (holds down the oil pickup tube using two screws vs 1) 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LX6FT1Y?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details 15 Kevko pickup tube comes with one but I used this one instead as I had already bought it. 1/2 NPT Male to 10AN Male adapter (goes it the on off valve of accusump) 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CILYVY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details 9 Meiling 10295 Oil Pump (High Pressure with Standard Volume) 1 https://www.amazon.com/Melling-10295-High-Pressure-Pump/dp/B001T8H0JG/ref=sr_1_5?crid=DU4GIAM6UL12&keywords=meilling+10295&qid=1650303457&s=automotive&sprefix=meilling+10295%2Cautomotive%2C98&sr=1-5 139 Part of the engine. I just bought a new one when doing my engine build. Pin (.26 or .38inch pins) Spanner Wrench (.6inch to 4.7inch width) to hold ends of Accumulator from Spinning when installing Valves 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HFFR9RR?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 12 -10AN Female To -10AN Male W/ 1/4 NPT Side Port Gauge Sensor BLACK Couple (FaSSter Performance Products) 1 https://www.ebay.com/itm/142769999090 15

Now that I have everything working below these following posts are detailed write up of what was needed for each area.

So long time without posting an update but as I mentioned above I spent all the spare time I had finishing the car so I could make my first track day with it last weekend 4/15. The car did great but my weekend was short lived so I didn't get to compare lip times etc. I was at Putnam raceway in Indiana with 10/10ths motorsports. I instruct with them and run the Advanced group and then my friend runs right after me using my car in the intermediate group. Saturday was a beautiful day and I was up first. I had a 30 minute session and spent the first 20 minutes or so of it doing 5/10 and watching the gauges even in the turns. I was pleasantly surprised to see nothing looking off. Oil pressure looked great (maybe even a little high?) but was between 45 in the turns to 95 at WOT down the straights. After owning a c6z06 that would dip to under 10 in some turns I liked this MUCH better. AFR looked good, water temp was great and the car just seemed to drive like you would hope for. The last 10 minutes I started to push it more and all continued well. After my session, I jumped out and my buddy jumped in for his 30 minute session. He got to go much more all out than me as the tires were now sticking really well. He loved the new power and the new transmission/clutch combo. After the car ran for that first hour we did a nut, bolt, coolant, oil, fuel, catch can, belt, leak, tensioner, melted wire, and anything else we could think of check and then did a 'happy dance' that nothing looked off. In reality we were really expecting some problem but to our amazement every connection and system was good and we had a full and beautiful day ahead of us! A few minutes after finishing the check I was back out with the advance group and was ready to have some fun pushing it! I spent the first lap rewarming the tires and then started to push about 8/10th. I made it to the 7th turn, which you come into at 90ish and have to hard brake down to 45 for a 90 degree right hander. When I began my turn in my 20year old driver side upper ball joint (which is in reality a tie rod end on a stalker) broke causing the front drive tire to cave inward. The car was easy to catch and even mid turn easy to see the problem so I straightened it out as best I could and slid/drove into the grass. After being towed off it took us until the end of the day to get a new upper ball joint/tie rod end. My friend got to do half of his last session and then one more 30 minute session with the novice group (while I was instructing) so we could make further our shakedown. After the repair all seemed good again but next day it went from 80 and sunny to 50 and drizzly so our weekend was done. So fingers crossed for good weather and no issues for our next session at NCM Memorial day weekend.

I went with the .81 fifth gear and purchased the TCET17722. Absolutely love having a 5th gear I can use now and it shifts great. And as to bellhousing I used the: https://www.amazon.com/Melrose-T-Top-Int-Licensed-Bellhousing/dp/B00LNEQCPE (although they might sell it on ebay for less). Bell housing GM 621 Offcially Licensed Repro from MelroseCorvette.com

The Radiator I purchased from Scott Minehart. I believe is made by Mark Scott but not sure. You definitely want one that is similar in size AND make sure you have it exactly in the middle of the car as a half inch one way or the other WILL make your hood hit one side. I made that mistake and had to fix it just last week before my first track day. If you are going to buy/make your own let me know and I will go measure the dimensions tomorrow but not that the corners are all angled and you Absolutely need that for it to fit. As to Fan I bought this one off Amazon. I saw one of the Amazon reviews was from a Minehart that was looking to cool his LS1 engine so I figured I had the right one Maradyne M142k Champion Series Radiator Fan. You will need to flip the fan blades over to make is a 'pusher fan' before install but that is easy and part of the install instructions that come with it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002Q3895M?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

That is a good idea. Since I went with the Moroso Oil Accumulator I was able to perform a similar function by ensuring it was filled with oil and and then opening it up prior to the first start. I bet we both used the same oil port on the block as well.

Hey I apologize for not responding to the last few posts. I was so focused on getting the car ready for my first outing the weekend of 4/15 that I spent all of my time working on the car. Anyway below are the answers to the last few posts and after I will also now that I have time be posting up a summary of all the steps and what challenges you will have All doable btw as I am not that great at this

Got a lot of stuff done over the last 2 weeks. 1. cut down and rewelded the steering rack mount. The original was so high the alternator belt was going to hit it. 2. welded on new radiator mount tabs 3. got the starter installed. Be careful when mounting your own. The LS engine uses M 10 bolts. When I first mounted it I grabbed the SAE equivalent which threads in, but then when torqued strips back out. Luckily, the SAE bolts are thinner so I was able to use a thread chaser to clean up the threads and just go back to them m10 bolts. 4. Setup the 3qt oil accumulator. I ended up mounting it right on the firewall. In order to make it fit I needed to move the pressure gauge from the bottom of the tube to the side to do this. I purchased quarter inch NPT fittings as follows: 1 90° male to female, 2.5 inch male to male and 1 90° female to female. I also moved from a manual open close valve to a solenoid driven one. The ones that moroso and Canton sell are over $225 so I found the one below instead which was $55. The threads for the valve are 1/2 inch NPT. To get the solenoid mounted you will need a short 1/2 NPT male to male, and a 1/2 NPT male to AN 10 male. Optional but on the end, I added a female to male AN 10 fitting that also included a side port 1/4 NPT hole. In this hole I screwed in my quarter inch NPT oil pressure gauge. From the end of the oil accumulator I ran a AN 10 hose all the way to the front of the engine block. On the front driver side of the engine block, I removed the oil galley plug and screwed in a M 16 x 1.5male oring to an10 male fitting. After installed I attached the the hose completing the system. Connecting the oil accumulator here will mean that oil goes through the filter before it reaches the engine bearings. Which is fine as long as your filter isnt clogged. I chose this option as I didn’t want to run a remote oil filter and the adapters that would allow me to run the spin on type added additional height to the oil pan which is already too close to the ground for my liking.

Great idea on moving the oil pressure sensor. I ended up moving it to the end of the accusump.

Correct on the trimming the rack mount. Making it shorter should give me the clearance I need for the belt.

Quick update. Lots of challenges figuring out what parts fit etc. to get the oil pressure sensor to fit I ended up needing a strait and an 90 degree not adapter. Still not a big fan of the clearance from sensor to frame though (update: I moved the sensor to right before the accusump as I think it would hit the frame in the original spot as the engine moves on the mounts) Also looks like I am going to need to cut and reweld the steering rack to make it lower as the height of the mount does not allow the water pump/alternator belt to fit without rubbing against it. I even tried buying a manual tensioner from ict billet and that didn’t help enough at all. I did get the fuel system run from the tank to the front of the car. I will finish up the rest later as I want to see where I can best fit the e85 sensor and the fuel pressure sensor. also lots of nuts etc bought for the cooling system but not totally done yet. with all if this once I find a working solution I will make sure to come back and document with part numbers and detailed photos. finally I decided I need to run my accusump into the engine block oil galley as installing the suggested sandwich adapter that goes between pan and filter would have put my filter an inch below the already too low oil pan. more pics to come in that setup too as I get in the galley port m16x1.5 to 10an adapter.

Thanks and sorry for the long delay in response. Love the idea of spacers if the have size I need. And also the idea to tack the alternator nuts to the plate. I will keep you up to speed o. How it turns out!

Thanks I like that design so I am going to do a mock-up this weekend to see how the alternator fit! The head bolts are m10 and the water pump are m8.

Lots of work but not much ‘completed’ in the past week. I fitted up the oil pan which is definitely the lowest part of the car. Plan to weld on some sacrificial metal pieces a little lower to protect it. I have is moroso 20142. It is a racing baffled pan that holds 7quarts and is 6 inches deep. Minehart recommends the stock corvette ls3 oil pan which I think is 4.85 inches deep but it only holds 5.5 qts and doesn’t have a racing baffle. Being concerned with oil starvation in the high g and sustained g turns I am also adding a 3qt canton oil accumulator. Nice benefit on that is I am also going to use it to pre-lubricate the engine before first start. To do that I just used a plastic hanger piece, opened the valve and then while pressing the hanger part into the accumulator I simultaneously opened the tire style valve on the back of the pump. This allowed me to press the piston inside the accumulator all the way back. Plan now is when ready I will fill the accumulator with 3 qts of oil and wire it to the oil pan in port and then pump up the tire valve. This should then force the 3 qts of oil through the system so I won’t have a dry start! I though I was ready to wire up the fuel tank but then realized the ls1 engine with a stock fuel rail doesn’t have a fuel return line like my old 3800 sc does. To overcome that I bought a post pump fuel filter that has another fuel pressure regulator incorporated into it. So if pressure in that filter hits 58 psi it is routed back to my gas tank without even making the trip up to the engine. Nice benefit if that is one less hose running through the transmission tunnel. Finally with the help of my son and his 3d printing skills I started to design an alternator mount that will allow the alternator to be flipped backwards (pulley facing the engine). I looked for hours at every type of alternator bracket on the market with no luck. Every time I found one that I though would work I would measure only to realize the alternator would hit the frame, suspension mount, driveshaft, water pump or hood. Good thing is if I get this figured out my plan is to send the 3d models to sendcutsend.com and then anyone else that needs them can do the same.

Things are moving fast! After measuring for clearance between the clutch fingers and throw out bearing my son and I got the transmission bolted to the engine. Took a bunch of wiggling but once the spines lined up it went right. Since my bell housing was made for a mechanical throw out I was even able to double check the measurement using a feeler gauge through the hole made for the clutch fork and it looked perfect! A couple days later my sons friend joint the fun to help cut and weld back on one frame bar that has to be moved a few inches to clear the starter part of the bell housing. We though that we would have to also cut and increase the height of the cross bar above the bell housing but when test fitting the engine in we found we still had .25 inches of clearance! So we just bolted up the motor mounts I got from Scott Minehart at stalker cars. Another pleasant surprise was that the transmission mount bar lined right up with the tkx mount plate! All I had to do was slot out the original bolt holes some so I could screw them in. All in all the new heavier tkx transmission fit in the transmission tunnel EASIER than my old t5!

Also got my PowerTrain technology throw out bearing installed. As part of the install my daughter and I had to measure to see if we would need to add shims to the bearing. Turns out that that no shims were needed. I guess the height of having a triple disc clutch takes up all the space between the throw out bearing and the clutch fingers. In the end you are supposed to have between .125 and .1875 between the two. I ended up at .150 with no shims. install is super easy. I have a bleed tube top that will extend out of the bell housing for initial bleeding future fluid changes. Then the longer master cylinder hose on the bottom. Since I didn’t have to add shims the only other part of the install was to undo one bolt and put in an anti spin stud in its place. Once that was in you just slide on the bearing and you are done.

Got the engine moved from my pole barn down the garage with some help from 2 of my boys. With their help we were able to use the cherry picker to load it into the back of my Ford Expedition and drive it around to the garage where we reversed the process and used the cherry picker to unload it.

I used to go to 471 pair to see all sorts of build information on Brunton Stalkers but haven't been able to get to the site for quite some time. Wondering if anyone knows of another site that the content moved to?

MV8 thanks for the ideas on fixing the holes and and the sun shield for the screen. I will try both of those. Croc - yes it is. It is actually my 19 year old sons. We restored it as a father son project just over a year ago and he learned to drive stick on it.

Lot of empty holes in the dash now that I don’t need separate gauges. Guess I need to figure out what to do about the empty spots now. Update: I ended up just cutting off the section of the dash in front of the shifter that had the gauge holes in it. For the whole right in front of the steering wheel I added a piece of carbon fiber to the back side and mounted the 3.5 inch dash on the front.