DanM

I contacted "Fab9 tuning" where I bought the oil pump and they have reached out to the manufacturer on my behalf. I've always found their customer service to be great!! https://fab9tuning.com/ Flyin' Miata also sell the same Oil Pump, its a very popular aftermarket item for more sporty applications. https://fab9tuning.com/boundary-engineering-billet-oil-pumps/ Hopefully, I'll hear something back shortly...

No photos today, but I still wanted to update the thread. My oil pump crank seal arrived today to I spent some time stripping off the accessory drive, carefully removing the one I put in a couple of days ago and putting in the new one. I think the time taken to complete the task has now halved because of all the practice I’ve been getting. Anyway long story short, it still leaks and I need to figure out where to go next with it….more to come.

Not to be deterred, I decided that instead of messing with the chassis I would shave away some of the bodywork and make a little slot for the roll bar plate to fit and then try to widen the bar to fit the mounting points. First I marked the position of the plate and slowly shaved away the fiberglass. Then I positioned the RHS bar to make sure it lined up with the holes....it did! 😁 Then I went to work on the roll bar. I figured I wouldn't be able to pull it apart as I had no tools to use, instead I found some old 2x4s in the corner and decided I would try to push them apart. I braced the 2x4 between the uprights and slowly stood on it....thankfully my weight was enough to move the bars apart. Next, I positioned the bar back on the car to see how close I was. Pretty close!! In fact I had over cooked it by about 5mm, so I got a ratchet strap and pulled it into position! Fits perfectly now!

So while the engine work is on hold while I source a new crank seal, I decided to move forward with something else. The RAC roll bar. Reading the instructions in the ZK bodywork manual and the pictures here on a Westfield sports car website, I thought fitting the roll bar would be a fun mini project to boost my confidence again after a week of problem solving. Sadly it wasn't to be. I started off by positioning the boot lid which needed a little bit of trimming to get it fitting correctly. After a quick zip over with the dremel it fitted well. Next I drilled through the chassis mounting plate holes from underneath up into the fiberglass. This is where my problem started. Unfortunately, the chassis mounting holes for the roll bar do not line up with the holes in the roll bar base plate. If I correctly position the LHS base plate against the pre-drilled mounting holes, the RHS base plate does not line up. I assume that the from of the roll bar base plate is positioned flush with the front of the seat back chassis rail. I started a discussion on the WSCC forum in the UK to see if anyone can help. Once I have it confirmed I will drill new holes in the chassis and attach accordingly. While I was waiting for some input from the UK forum members I marked the position of my third brake light on the roll bar. Using my micrometer balanced between the bars I was able to locate the centre point where I will eventually tap some screw holes to secure the light.

Yeah, that was the seal the came pre-fitted with the boundary oil pump. I will order a new one from mazda tomorrow and will hopefully have more success. Thanks for the tip.

So after many hours trying to remove the front crank seal and reassemble I think it was about 10:45pm by the time I finished. This morning I got up with high hopes, pushed the car on to the driveway and started it up again.......still leaking..lots. I hope I don't have a scratched crank or oil pump!😔

After spending the evening focusing on the success of my first start, this afternoon I spent some time looking for the source of my oil leak. First I took of all the belts, pulleys and covers Then, I cleaned up all the mess, isolated the fuel pump and gave the engine a short crank over to see if there was anything obvious. Looks like I may have to replace the new crank seal that came with my Boundary oil pump.

No, this is the original exhaust manifold. its just been wrapped.

But that's for another day, today is about celebrating my first engine rebuild and start up.

....and for some reason I have a lot of smoke coming out of the OE o2 sensor port that has been bunged up!? It happens when the pipes start to warm.

I cant wait for that!!! :-)

Fix oil leak! lol Its pouring out of the front near the oil pump!.....then test drive!!!

Thanks @Anaximander! Looking forward to the next chapter!! :-)

Thanks John :-)

It started!!!!!!!!!!! As you can see lots and lots of smoke at first, but it started and stayed alive!!! What was the problem? I contacted Megasquirt and they asked me to open up the units and check the "jumper" configurations inside. We found the issue (MAP related), made the change and she fired straight up!!!! Thank You to everyone for pitching in and getting me into the ball park!!! 🍻 She revs a bit high so have some basic config to play with, but this is now the fun part! Just to close the loop here are the specs: MSPNP2 - MM9093 V1.5 (MSPNP2 1.3b board) mm9093 Miata_3.4.4 base map GM IAT Innovate MTX-L O2 Wideband Internal MAP sensor was a MPXH6400, Baro MPX4115

The 9093 miata base map configures it to a MPXH6400 (It looks like one too). I selected the MPX4250 for fun from the drop down and it changed the MAP value to approx 200 kpa. There is a custom option too where I guess you can put your own values in there.

Yup, they can! Yes, they are the same injectors and I cleaned and bench tested them. Yes, Just checked again and it seems to be good.

Changed the Gauges on the Tuner studio. The MAP, Fuel Load and Ign Load are all identical!?

I just tested the injectors and although the harness passed the NOID test and the rail is full of fuel (Ask me how I know) they are not firing. I'm so confused right now, I feel like my head will explode! 😣

So I bought some starter fluid spray today and gave that a squirt into the throttle body. The engine responded briefly! yay! before a big cloud of spoke started spewing from the exhaust filling my garage. I still have the rising MAP issue so reaching out to megasquirt direct on that one. Next step for me is to remove the fuel rail and injectors to see if they are actually spraying.

Thanks everyone for your input. I have the MSPNP2 (Plug and Play) MS, so in theory other than configuring the IAT and Wideband (from Drop down) I have nothing to do to get the engine firing (albeit un-tuned). I have checked that I am using the correct firmware and the Miata 9093 base map for start up. I am now at the point where I have had to recharge the battery 'cos of all the cranking and tests since last thursday........so who knows what the state of other components are now. I will definitely reach out to MS and see if it might be the unit.

Timing also seems to be good!

So, here is the latest: Fuel Pump - Working Intake - Clear Battery - Delivering Power Starter - Working Spark - Present Injectors - working I am currently trying to understand the Megasquirt data logs. My Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) is way off the chart like some crazy boosted engine without even cranking it over. I loaded new firmware on the controller but still the same. I'm reading all the megasquirt forums to see if I can get some kind of lead to follow....very frustrating.

Yeah, sorry Graham, I was very tired when I wrote that. It is 10 degrees btdc. I've updated it now. I'm taking input from multiple forums right now, just trying to gather as much data as I can to narrow down the problem.

I cranked it over and checked the timing last night and the timing is exactly where it should be, 10 degrees retarded Advanced.