Rosteri

As you pointed out 16 awg is just fine for 10 amps and 255 LPH is still a relatively modest pump, so at least I wouldn’t stress about it.

I agree, those TPS spikes are weird. But again, I troubleshooted 3 hours at a dyno $$ rate my camshaft trigger failure, which was just a result of the engine missfiring due to no fuel… 😉

John, the high pressure pump works at full speed all the time in connection with the fuel regulator, so engine idle/full speed shouldn’t make a difference if it stalls or not. But anyway, it is an easy check when you get the pump back.

John, my transfer pump turned off at the dyno (my fault), so the pressure pump struggled to keep up pressure (low fuel level in swirl pot) and it caused loads of sensor faults and ecu warnings due to missifire, which we unfortunately started troubleshooting before we noticed the fuel pressure. Pressure pumps are really bad in sucking, so I’d try without that collector mat first.

This is exactly what I tried to write - when reapplying, just attach the strip back in place as individual pieces and there will be no tension. The weights are not designed to have the needed spacing for 13” wheels.

John, at least with my 13” wheels none of the adhesive wheel weights that I had curved enough when attached like in your picture - they all fell off. One has to cut the weights into individual piece before sticking them on. Congrats on the first drive!

Yes, new discs have already been machined, just missing the cylinders.

Thanks for posting the pictures, very interesting!

Just an opening to see the bladder information - the aluminium container itself is not meant to contain fluid, it just provides some physical protection.

We made instruments for our boat project (Vesper) just as MV8 proposed, i.e. purchased new KUS GPS instruments, that have a removable screw on bezel and made new dials. I tried to find shops that would make the dials, but no luck. In the end we used a UV printer available for free at a local library and the base was a 1 mm clear acrylic. We had the dials still attached to a sheed with tiny tabs for alingment and printed directly on the acrylic. The quality is great, not good enough for a watch, but worked for the dials. Design: Prints: Assembly: For the bezels we might still make custom ones. And yes, we also made all the small ones, like oil pressure etc…

And the Pyrotect custom tank finally arrived - so far all looks good, I just need to find imperial socket heads to mount the the Nuke CFC Unit, which is designed for M6 socket heads. It didn’t even cross my mind, as Pyrotect sells standard tanks directly to Nuke as well. The welding is just awesome on it, but unfortunately it will be also a constant reminder of a level, that I will never reach… I’ll need to remove the roll cage from the 7 to swap tanks next.

And a fail - a mistake in the 3D file resulted in a very thin wall thickess at the corner. I didn’t do a cross section check on these, since they are not structural… baby, one more time…

Mika’s wheels have 22.9mm to the thread start, so if we can hit this, then no more wonky tightening issues. V, you might have to file the bosses down, if they are too long for your wheels or there is a variation. The bosses got an M8 thread first, so welding them on was easy: Which was then drilled out to 8.5 mm and a simple chamfer was added to the front side: A bit of sanding and a bead blasting next, then these are ready to go.

Thanks, now I know more of SLR center caps than I would have ever dared to dream about… Today I had finally some spare time and commanded the machine to make some chips:

The AIM installation looks great! I have the same ”doesn’t seem to be in the center” visuals with my gear change indicator, when not seated.