Drakman

Hi Blake, Thank you so much that is perfect, exactly what i needed to see. Cheers Dave

Hi Guys and Girls, I am about to retro fit a set of individual primary exhaust pipes to my 2014 Duratec roadsport 175. As standard my car has the single exhaust pipe exiting through the drivers/right hand side panel. What i am looking for is the measurements to enlarge the hole for the 4 individual pipes through the side panel. Is it possible for anyone who has an SV/large chassis duratec engine with the 4 individual exhaust pipes to measure down from the engine number stamped chassis tube to the top of the opening for the exhaust exit and also from the lower rear, front suspension A arm cutout back to the front of the exhaust exit cutout? Does that make any sense. Thank you in advance, Dave

Hi mark1V, Silencer arrived safe and sound, thank you. Dave

Yeah, I hear you Bruce, the car is a keeper. If I die, the old adage, "Don't let my wife sell the the car for what i told her it cost" applies.

Hi Bruce, I am early days into my Caterham modifications, I have read about the plastic manifolds flexing/splitting so the aluminium manifold does sound good but in the long run i think my interest is going to be roller barrel ITB's. Cheers Dave

Thank you Bruce, that is a really nice looking Caterham.

Hi Bruce, What model Caterham did the intake manifold and throttle body come off? Cheers Dave

I sourced a silencer thanks to Mark1V.

Hi Rick, Thank you, is this silencer the 63 mm inlet version? If it is i will take it for sure. Dave

Hi Guys and Girls, I am looking for a silencer/muffler to suit a 2014 Duratec engined Caterham, either genuine or Raceco. Must be 63 mm inlet and in good condition. Thanks Dave

There is also a set on UK F/B marketplace. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/241375148426173/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3Ad4831445-bba5-403c-aa2f-d1a58332a5ae

I am in the middle of the same issue, i am buying a set of rims (no tyres) from a guy in the UK. I was just in the UK 2 weeks ago but didn't see his wheels so now i have to explain to him how easy it is to ship to Australia! When i was in the UK i bought an exhaust system and a set of 620r bilstein coil overs, i wimped out with the exhaust and got Caterham to ship it. The coilovers i got a price from one of the international freight forwarders, 402 pounds to ship to Queensland, Australia. I took the coilovers into a Royal Mail post office (packed in two boxes) and posted them for 155 pounds. The best bit is both the coilovers and the exhaust arrived in just under a week. I wont see them for another 3 weeks, i am still in Turkey. I wasn't expecting them to arrive so soon. So if you can get the people in the UK to use Royal Mail, Global Express it is quick and not so crazy price wise.

PM sent

Hahaha, knifeySpoony, I can tell you have done this before.

Hi Blake, It was a little more involved than i first thought, mostly because i did it on a "Belly hoist" (not high enough to stand under) but with help from my wife and son it all went well. Start with the hand brake on and get under and remove the propshaft bolts. then wheels off. Suck or drain the oil out. I removed the 2 brake caliper bolts (watch out for the 2 alloy spacers) and cable tied the caliper to the shock spring just clear of the disc, my car has solid brake lines. Remove the "A" frame (easy) and ARB if you have one. On the right hand side hub mount remove the speedo sensor (check the spacing from the pick up so you can put it back the same) The handbrake cable goes through a steel mount on the RHS of the diff housing, back off the adjuster and bend the steel mount so you can get the cable out. There are 6 bolts that hold the axle/hub but only the 4 that go through the De Dion tube need to be removed, the back 4 are the ones you want. 2 are bolts with nylock nuts. fiddley but easy. Now once the alloy hub mounts come loose, reach in and grab the inner CV and pull it out of the diff while supporting the disc and hub, place it out of the way and do the same on the other side. At this stage the only thing holding the diff in are the top through bolt and the 2, 8 mm socket head bolts at the pinion end of the diff. I loosened all of them and then used a big screwdriver to push the top bolt out leaving the screw driver holding the weight. This is where you might/will need help, remove the 2 socket head bolts while supporting the diff and have someone remove the screwdriver the diff WILL come down past the De Dion tube, you might have to move the pinion end in toward the prop shaft. Now, there are SPACING washers everywhere, take PHOTOS of how many and where they are so you can refit them in the right place. The washer/spacers are the character building part of the whole job, read that as PITA. I don't think i missed anything, please jump in add correct me if i have. Good Luck Dave

Well, the new drexler diff is in and ready to test but the weather here has other ideas. Turning the wheels by hand i can see the prop shaft turn and the opposite wheel turns in the same direction so all good so far. I will be interested to see how quiet or otherwise the new diff is, the titan diff center was very quiet gear and bearing wise but it had some amazing clunks in it. I am pretty sure it wasn't going to last much longer.

It's been a long time but my Drexler diff finally arrived. It got lost in transit between Germany and England but all good now. Just have to find/make some time to swap it over.

Thanks Guys, I am only looking at doing the rears at the moment, the front wings are some kind of plastic so i think they might be a bit more resistant to crazing the paintwork.

Thank you all for the responses, I would never have thought of "Ute tray liner". Time to do a bit of research now. I nearly jumped out of my skin the first time a stone hit the underside of the rear guard, it was so loud, i was expecting to find the guard in pieces. Thanks Dave

Hi Guys and Girls, I am looking for a product that can be applied under the rear fenders/guards/mud guards, whatever the correct terminology is, that will prevent stone strikes from crazing the paint on the outside of the fenders. I would assume there are rubberized coatings? that can be sprayed to the under side of the fender to help absorb the energy of small rocks/stones. Thanks Dave

It really opened my eyes i would have thought the oil was a good idea.

I wouldn't use used motor oil. A friend of mine was buying old used handguns from China a few years ago and they were all badly pitted, I asked why and was told that the Chinese Government would just drop all the old outdated guns into 44 gallon drums full of used motor oil in the thought that the oil would protect them. I have no idea how long the firearms were in the oil, decades i imagine. The guns were really old Colts among other manufactures from very early 1900's, apparently the used oil contains acidic contaminants from the combustion process and it attacked the metal parts of the firearms.

Thank you yet again MV8, Yes I am looking at a set of near new 620 coilovers. looking at the front open length eye to eye, narrow track 14" and wide track 15" would explain the hex front damper extension then. https://caterhamparts.co.uk/dampers/455-front-damper-extension-widetrack.html Thanks Dave

Thank you MV8, I do understand what you mean about all the differences re set up. I guess the valving would be set harder and the springs would be stiffer going from a 620 to a 175. It occurred to me that from SV chassis to another SV chassis physically the fit would be the same. I assume all Caterham wide track wishbones, regardless of SV or S3 would be the same part? So would 620 S3 shocks be set slightly softer because of the narrower track or would they all be the same regardless of chassis width? Sorry for all the questions, just trying to get my head around things. Dave

Hello all, I am looking to fit a set of 620 s coilovers to my 2014 Roadsport 175. Would a set of wide track shock absorbers from a S3 fit onto a wide track SV car? I imagine they would be the same but i thought i had better check first. Thanks Dave