jbcollier

They are not stamped. Sometimes they will have paint markings identifying them by the manufacturer's own system, usually not though. You can use a spring rate calculator (diameter, wire size, coils-per) to roughly figure out what you already have. What spring ratings to use? Depends on what you want. Going to drive mostly by yourself? Going tripping with a companion and full luggage? Just a toy for the occasional track day? Full race and you want to be competitive? Lots of variables to consider. Myself? I went with as close to the original (Lotus S3) spring rates and lengths as I could find. Mine will strictly be on the street and long, two-up trips planned at least annually, though probably more like two or three. I suspect I might have to go to slightly stiffer rear springs but we'll see.

The engines run in Sevens are all well known do a starting baseline will be available. That’ll nail your chokes and emulsion tubes and have the rest close-ish. Then you are just tweaking the small stuff. It’s when you go from scratch that things get really expensive. 4 sets of three or four different emulsion tubes really sets the cash register to ringing!

I disagree. With a wide-band O2 sensor and an A/F-R gauge. It is far easier than it used to be. You still have to know what to look for but that is readily google-able. I have set up quite a few carbs from scratch now. It’s methodical and painstaking work but fairly straightforward. I use an old Innovate Motorsports LM1. They now have the LM2.

Yes, but I hope no one is getting the idea you can substitute one for the other. Gear/hypoid oils are NOT engine oils in different packaging, or visa versa.

Plain old 20w50 is what we always used. Noisy in the three lower gears but quiet in 4th? Layshaft bearings. Whines in first but quiet(ish) otherwise? Normal.

A straight cut first used to be very common Fords, Jags, MGs, Triumphs, etc, all had them. You're not in first very long so the extra noise is inconsequential. Cruising along in 3rd with the tranny howling like a banshee being immolated, is a completely different matter. You don't get used to it.

Do you wear ear plugs? I've driven a full-rally spec AH 3000 and you couldn't hear absolutely anything other than the gearbox unless you were in direct.

Most fuel pumps for carbs are not positive displacement pumps. They are spring-powered, diaphragm pumps. Before you start spluttering, yes, they use either mechanical or electrical power to move the diaphragm against the spring. This, however, is just to draw in the fuel. The force pushing the fuel out comes from the spring working against the diaphragm. So, the pressure output is provided by the spring, and is always the same as long as the flow rate does not exceed the pumps output. The only reason to fit a pressure regulator is if you are using a fuel pump whose output exceeds the carb's recommended supply pressure. It is always best practice to fit the right pump rather than fit an additional regulator to choke down a higher output pump. What happens when the fuel pressure is too high? When the float drops, and the needle valve opens, fuel flows in too quickly and agitates the fuel in the bowl throwing off the carb's metering. Are there situations where you would want a higher pressure (capacity) pump and a (high capacity) pressure regulator? Yes, if you are using a carb(s) with either super or turbo charging, there may well be such a dramatic range of required flow rates that a low pressure pump won't be able to keep up. You may also want a variable pressure regulator to adjust the fuel pressure to keep the air/fuel pressure ratio the same as boost climbs.

First gear in that transmission is straight-cut, just like reverse gear, and that is why it whines, perfectly normal.

By all means use a gauge to set up the correct fuel pressure — though it is better to use a correctly spec’d pump and ditch the reg — but remove the gauge and plug the port for regular use. Gauges can fail, or be easily mechanically damaged, and then you’re spraying a flammable liquid all over the bottom of the car.

Additives are to prevent ethanol from phase separating. They won’t stop ethanol’s other detrimental effects on rubber and some metals.

Yes, and SU/Burlen sell new electronic SU pumps as well. I haven't found them to be as reliable as this German made pump, though.

+1 Use a pump that is correctly rated rather than a higher psi pump and a pressure regulator. I have seen too many failed pressure regulators, especially ones for low psi applications like Webers. Here's another option: https://bpnorthwest.com/mg/mgb/fuel-system/fuel-pump-and-fittings/fuel-pump-electronic-dual-polarity-banjo-mgb-65-to-80.html It's a German made replacement for an SU pump. We installed LOTS and nary a problem.

I used to wire mine up with oil pressure controls, cranking bypass and an override but that is just too complicated. Use an inertia/roll-over switch in the circuit and that's all you'll need. Simple, it works, and it primes without any shenanigans.

Some marks will come off with light sanding. Surface grinding can sort worse defects such as micro cracking. But, that is totally thrashed/smoked/etc. Did you compete in a tractor pull? Only half joking. The clutch would seem to be under-spec’d for your engine’s power output and/or your driving style.

Not used oil. new oil would be a good, albeit messy, option.

Just reminiscing, not recommending.

Stop trying to find the missing link/source of the Nile/etc. Take one simple circuit and trace through until you find the issue. I would start with the heater fan as it should not be complicated or controlled by any black boxes. Use a 12v test light with an incandescent bulb. Digital multimeters can "smell" a voltage through poor and corroded connections as they apply virtually no load to the circuit. Sort that and move on to the next simplest circuit. You might find one issue that rules them all but more likely it will the usual cacophony of causes.

You want something that is semi-fluid so it will flow into all the nooks and crannies. You want it to stay semi-fluid as coatings that harden can trap moisture and cause more corrosion than no treatment at all. As long as it meets those two requirements, it should be fine. Heck we used to save used motor oil and inject that into cavities. Made a heck of a mess but it sure worked well. Possibly not the best choice these days though, what with environmental regs, etc, etc.

I'm in contact with Redline and will see what they say.

The add on kits are ok for a rear window but a bit too in-your-face for a front:

Darn. The Bimmer World kit minimum width is 34" and the Seven clocks in at 31".

Could you post a photo of your blades? Happy with their performance? Yup, know all about RainX, and use it, but sometimes it hard to beat a good blade.

Having cut my teeth on air cooled VWs, I was familiar with the dash mounted defroster fan. I found they had decidedly mixed results. Thanks for the nudge about electric grid defrosters. I hadn't realized you could get aftermarket kits for front windshields as well. Definitely will consider getting one. https://www.bimmerworld.com/Safety-Race-Interior/Battery-Electrical/BimmerWorld-Front-Windshield-Defroster-Kit.html

Are there better alternatives out there? Perhaps an arm and blade combo that is a little less "floppy"? (stock 69 S3 and they do not look confidence inspiring)