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About wemtd

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    2.0 Duratec Birkin
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    The Frozen Northeast

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  1. Just take off the top of your pedal box: heat from engine will blow you out of the car
  2. Have you tried Beachman racing in Seattle or BirkinDirect in Eagle? I suspect either can make one from Aluminum.
  3. Put 3m clear bra film beneath & around them. My (albeit aluminum) ones are well sanded. Surrounding clearbra covered pair is unaffected
  4. Double check the Newton catalog: they have different sizes
  5. 2 - CHMSL: <Custom Dynamics Universal Light Bar 24 LED Light Bar ST6126ARACPT> I drilled two very small holes for the wires & ran them through roll bar to a connector for rollbar removal/exchange. 10 - (see other thread this week) replaced gas filler cap with one from Newton Mfg. <https://www.newton-equipment.com/>, search for mocal in florida for catalog. 11 - [you've likely see this already] have bed-lner/lineX spraywed on underside of wheel arches. it will mitigate cracking from stones.
  6. Congrats!! A few late night thoughts: I’m not sure if things have changed much but I didn’t have much riveting to do. 1- you'll probably need to make the modified socket to tighten the headlight with room for the wires. 2-wiring in a CHMSL to the roll bar. 3- 12v marine plug on the console or beneath the dash gets constant use for GPS. 4- i epoxied big heads fasteners to the trailing edge of front fenders to fasten lexan mud flaps (significantly helps with gravel accumulation). 5- I like to raise the engine/gearbox assembly off a dolly into position with
  7. Sorry for your loss.. Hence you’re 10k rule of thumb I guess?
  8. Congrats! se7en should also be available- was mine until I moved.
  9. (Calling Croc) why a non-pressurized system? I thought we want extra boiling point elevation gained with pressure?
  10. Yes “small” holes ~2-3mm diameter per memory. Will try to measure my spare this afternoon. which gasket/RTV are you referring to? I use RTV on my water outlet-engine as there is no gasket.
  11. FWIW: I fill my system by parking on an angle (my yard) such that the overflow tank is above the return pipe. This is combined with Tom's trick of using a screwdriver to bleed air from the return hose/pipe junction. Years ago when having overheating troubles i also drilled extra holes in my thermostat (someone's advice) and haven't had trouble since. Even though there is already a small bypass I don't know if this helped by addressing an airlock or just increasing coolant flow the necessary amount.
  12. Where are you located? Some of us have B6’s you may be able to try on.
  13. I never had trouble with the sport seats - but like the Tillett better. For road use I expect you’ll be able to use the seat sliders which is very useful. Tall roll bar is also a good choice (I have both...). Same for the cams. I actually found the engine more smooth at idle and easier to start [compared to stock cams with ITBs]. I think you’re going to really enjoy it!!
  14. John. Did you consider calling our friend in CO? That EcoBoost seven he built looked mighty powerful, and I’m sure he’d customize the order for you. - perhaps this is a harbinger if my se7ens future also?
  15. Congratulations Birkson. if you have basic mechanical aptitude, can change your oil, and use a torque wrench: you should be able to assemble one of these with a little patience. is that a narrow body, or “relaxed fit”? and yes: there are a few quirks. Query the group when you encounter them for assistance. for now: I’ll recommend a Tillett seat for the driver. It’s one of the best upgrades I’ve made. Very comfortable, and nicely holds you in place. Enjoy the journey- I think assembling the car was just as much fun as driving it is. cheers p
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