Timothy Keith-Lucas

Black Hole, your example is a clear explanation, too. Thank you.

Wow! Thanks so much for the clarification and the story. Computers? I remember programming my engineering homework in Fortran on cards. IBM computers of the era came with a hook used to pull mangled cards out of the works.

So, basically, the new owner visited DMV and claimed a wildly inaccurate date of manufacture, and DMV, never having seen a Caterham or the weird VIN on it, thusly unable to challenge the claim, goes with the flow? Hmmmmm.

For example, there is a 1998 Westfield on the market at present titled as a 1960 Westfield. Could someone explain this to me? Are there ways that a pre-dated title can be abused? This particular example includes a multitude of parts that simply didn't exist in 1960, so it's not a nuts and bolts replica.

Here's the "cap" for the Lotus nose badge: https://www.ebay.com/itm/323985454655?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D279229%26meid%3Db7ab0c58a4b549dc8f47880db0facb14%26pid%3D101506%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D324206691484%26itm%3D323985454655%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D4481478%26algv%3DDefaultOrganicWebWithV11WebTrimmedV3VisualRankerWithKnnV3AndUltBRecall%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p4481478.c101506.m1851

I found on the internet, and then lost, a 2 1/4" Lotus logo cap that fits over a tired old cap. Does anyone know the source?

It was a bit more than I expected - $1089 for the set, but that's half the cost of new ones, they did extensive repairs underneath, and they - of course - have all the holes drilled and in the right places. Smooth as glass, and a four day turn around.

I've got some wonderful news. Carrabelle is a small port on the Gulf of Mexico, so we have a fiberglass repair shop that generally repairs boats that have lost in fights with solid objects. I took my "beyond repair" fenders and snout to them and asked them if they could prep for painting. "We can do that" was the answer. Two days later they showed me the flared front fenders - smooth as glass. Gorgeous. Reinforced as needed on the back side. I'll see the rest and post some pictures soon. I'll also tell you what it cost. As near as I can tell, having searched diligently, there is no source for old Sevens fenders and snouts in the US. Redline is gearing up to produce more, but a set for my S2 would push $2K with shipping. I'm really happy to have found an alternative.

ProGuard 3" straps 4 point safety harnesses. Two. $151.99 from Amazon. Very little use, but minor dings on one set. Out of my S2; I'm going with 2" five points in my restoration. The 2" version can be seen on Amazon at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08WJJFWMQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 Leave me a voicemail or send me a text at 931 636-1122 if you are interested.

Nope. It's an order at this point. He said that it might be weeks before he received BRG gelcoat flared wings, snout, and rear fenders. I'm doing the interior upholstery, cleaning up the engine, rewiring, and prepping the aluminum for painting. That last step will have to wait until I get the fiberglass, gien matching the color. Anything that I should be doing to encourage him?

Bad news that Chris M. has not come though in eight months. I have a complete set of Series 2 fiberglass on order from him.

Same here. Whole drawer full. But the point is the self-adjusting part. I use/carry them big time.

A pair of CH Hanson self adjusting locking pliers is valuable in that case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09N8N5JNV/ref=syn_sd_onsite_desktop_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&pf_rd_p=eece463e-9765-4c82-95e6-6bb6969aa564&pf_rd_r=S8BMX1N3M6V8DM4F90VH&pd_rd_wg=uGyuL&pd_rd_w=GOLUj&pd_rd_r=d4ca0193-8260-4745-8621-0a2e7684fda5&aref=gbejHMbwzT

The rivets I'm trying to remove at present are at the back edge of the engine compartment in front of the windshield. Twenty of them, with the goal of getting behind the instrument panel for re-wiring. I think I've found (with a lot of help in this thread, thank you) a way that works, at least in this situation: 1. with a sharp spike(a carbide scribe in my case) drive the mandrel back into the rivet, so a drill bit has a starting point. 2. with an oversized drill bit cut off the head of the rivet without drilling through the first plate. 3. With a pin punch drive out the rivet. So far, so good.

I think the point is that the tiles are only 1/4 inch or so thick, so add tiles under the wheels to achieve a level surface. I've used 1/4" plywood squares to level an airplane for weighing; same idea.

These are tiny and very tight rivets. I think I'll try a sharp chisel and see if they will shear off. If not, I could hold them from spinning with the same chisel and drill as you suggest. Thanks for sharing your expertise. I injured my wrist a few days ago, so there's going to be a pause in Lotus work.

I ran a string alignment yesterday based on the brake/stud drums, with the tires and fenders off. It appears that I have a tiny toe-in in the front wheels, and that the frame is straight. I'm a bit surprised, given that when I removed the fenders I found one rear fender had been torn off the body at some point, probably in her 1960s racing history. I'm going to go with that when I get her back together, and then watch the tire wear very carefully. Failure to do that got me into this problem. My thanks to everyone who has contributed to this discussion. Have a wonderful turkey day if you are in the USA. --Tim.

Is there a secret to removing pop rivets? I want to remove two panels with 48 rivets each and one with 20. I can drill out some of them, but others spins with the drill bit. I've considered but not tried grinding the tops off, but that would be very delicate work. Thoughts? You wonderful folks are giving me a rapid education in 7 renewal.

What a wonderful discussion! I've learned a lot in the process. Thanks, guys.

It turns out that i did have wear on both front tires, just not as badly on the right as the left. I'm hoping that the loose steering rod locking nut, and subsequent extreme toe in, is all of the problem.

Thank you. I did a string alignment yesterday. The problem was obvious - somehow when I replaced the steering shaft I loosened the locking nut on the left steering arm, and it unwound itself. At present, the left side is straight, with no toe in. On the right side, when the front wheels are straight, the rear wheel toes in by about 1/8 inch from rear tire rear bulge to rear tire front bulge. Is there a way to correct that? The question about bushings is interesting. The ones in the front end appear to be original (1962), but there is no wobble in the steering or in the front wheels when they are on stands. The bushings in the steering universal joint were worn out. I replaced them when I installed a telescoping steering shaft. That got rid of all the steering play.

I just noticed that my left front tire is badly worn, unlike the others, despite my not experiencing any pull to either side. Are there instructions somewhere for aligning the front end? I don't imagine that the commercial shops, with their computerized and laser loaded by the make and model alignments are going to be much help.

There is a source! Wow. My suspicion is that the original owner took some dings on the race track and patched it up. Replacement looks like a good deal. Thanks a bunch, folks.

Is the a source for wings to fit my 1962 S2? It's going to be a daunting task to get mine smooth enough to satisfy my restoration painter, and before I start sanding, I'd like to see if they can be replaced. Thanks.

As soon as I fallowed Iamscotticus's recommendation by asking for a new specific photograph, two supposed owners ghosted me. Thanks for the help, guys.