Timothy Keith-Lucas

Amen, IamScotticus. Aside from the PITA of cross threading a stud, do you want to place a bet on how many air wrenches deliver the right torque for the stud? I bought a Jeep that had oversized tires torqued to 200 ft lbs., a miserable case of "It's bigger so we should put it on really tight." My rant, but I doubt many tire shops understand that they are aiming at the elastic range of the stud, not "tighter is better."

Thank you, MV8. I will clean and polish up each rim in turn. I have not seen anything but surface corrosion so far, despite the wheels being over 60 years of age. Actually, I do have a compressor capable of a very rapid dump; it sits at 60 gallons of 175 psi air. It's biggest problem is that it shatters the glass beads in my blast cabinet, resulting in silicon dust which is basically a hazardous material. So far, I've had no problem getting the bead to seat. It's getting it to unseat that is the challenge. You've gone to a lot of trouble to coach me. I really appreciate that. --Tim.

Thank you, Dreamer. I'm getting a short course in tire care. Right now (with a day out for volunteer stuff) I'm working on a bead breaker. I'll be back soon. Many thanks to the several forum members who have contributed to my education. I really appreciate your patience and the wisdom you impart. I started in on a Seven as a step up from 60 years overhauling and maintaining small motorcycles. Some of those skills transfer well to the Seven, but a lot do not.

Thank you for the coaching, MV8. Right now I'm building a bead breaker powered by a 1/4 inch impact driver.

IamScotticus asked for a photo of my magnesium wheels. They look a lot like the stamped steel version but weigh 9.5 pounds. I think you can see that they are cast. The white powdery corrosion is typical of magnesium. I have a fifth one, but it is damaged, I'm guessing in the same accident that messed up the left side of my Seven.

My compressor will do 175 psi. Should I give it a shot? I'm a bit concerned about the structural integrity of the garage.

MV8, thank you for that street tire recommendation. I'm aligned with your perspective, since I only drive my 7 on paved streets where I cannot push the car to it's capabilities. --Tim.

Sure, but give me a day. I'm taking two tires off rims either late today or early tomorrow.

I'm learning a lot. Thanks very much. One issue here is that I have lost my basic S2 manual and forgotten about it. A new copy is printing out now. Thanks for making the download available. Yeah, at 240 pounds per wheel plus me, it's not going to take much pressure to create a good patch on the road, and the ride should be much better. Our paved roads are very bumpy as a result of hurricane Michael seven years ago, so I'll look forward to that. 13 inch wheels. A bit of a surprise was that she came to me with magnesium wheels, which I'm guessing were added for racing. A set of mag wheels ain't cheap.

Thank you. When the renovation currently in progress is complete, I'll give it a try.

I've got something to learn, MV8, and thank you for raising the question. I've thought of tire pressure as a tire question, save for low pressure for snow and mud and higher pressure sharpens the handling. So, what is the recommended pressure for a 1962 Series 2? I hope that it is not totally squishy.

Ouch. What you see in the photograph is a cheap street tire with 5.5 mm of tread left, inflated (carefully) to the manufacturers 44 psi maximum that blow out last night while sitting in the garage. Notice that the steel belt is now on the outside. I'm glad I was not there. In that confined space it would have been cause for fresh underwear. OK. I need a decent set of street tires. I don't race (I'm not any good at it) and the local constabulary, while generally friendly, take a dim view of my sliding around traffic circles. I do try not to exceed twice the speed limit. I've read several threads on tires, but they seem aimed at either racing or sliding around traffic circles. So, what do you recommend for an economical set that a. is not likely to hydroplane on standing road water, and b. Does not go bang! in the night? Suggestions will be appreciated.

Are you children having fun? Actually the trashed tach I have was converted to new electronics by Clocks for Classics. Unfortunately, I need a quicker solution. Let me see what I can do switching wires and insulating, with the hope that my 7 will not become a poster for Lucas Electric (not relatives).

I'll just have to insulate it very carefully and switch the wires.

So, no nice clean simple solution. The conversion to negative ground is getting more attractive. Nisonger was not helpful, just a "unfortunately" message. I found this negative ground tach that will fit and looks about right for $200. https://www.appletreeauto.com/80mm-0-8000-rpm-tachometer-with-chrome-bezel

My original tach is toast in several ways. I'm trying to find a replacement. So far I'm the not-so-proud owner of two (2!) positive earth Smith originals that apparently came off bug eye sprites and are 95mm in case diameter. That's too big to fit between the upper frame member of the dashboard and the steering column. I need an 80mm. Moss has one, but it's negative earth. Can anyone tell me where to find an 80mm, positive earth, electric, 8,000 RPM tach for a Series 2 Seven? Anyone want the ones I've got? Thanks. --Tim.

Consider this $16 windshield mount mirror from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KFW5V42/?coliid=I286I2QCRJRW0K&colid=36Y9FLFR58BU3&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

Lots of water first, then Prestone: https://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AS105-Radiator-Flush-Cleaner/dp/B00B99U088/ref=sr_1_11?crid=27RXPGZILPKQL&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.3a2zweqVYuNyzHzjtoiK8Z4FG4LWnUJbh6PDjMYR0OBbJhUMDsKFKRur0Oo4Km99U6gdz6mFV-n-Z-QyF4iXHcV7khrdK0qT4oyJ5UgLNwIy4ZjOGJY7MwK4cNwQi1Bgzl706iUEVuZ7DHqhTQHy6WhTbAxSNZISFWvelsgwI-PUdwEijYRfpkamTvzYVLoX8yV5FKNGw-WEQOa51OGdj5WwSFm1_fOmQolk9b_Pc-bbeaReUlO3VHbXdwAVDmT8oJ-XApbR-4ceiLBp_6Vshmf8DEEbu6DQfwertn5WEaM.FNq5SqhFtgih63yaPNLO3MrE7uRxAjWYYF7sIWJATZA&dib_tag=se&keywords=radiator%2Bflush&qid=1753443896&sprefix=radiator%2Bflush%2Caps%2C354&sr=8-11&th=1 Plus my smaller (1500 PSI) pressure washer to get the dead bugs out of the radiator fins. Messy. Filling my system is not easy. There seem to be air pockets everywhere, so it's fill while the engine is running, lots of burps and bubbles and geysers, then stop the engine and drain, then repeat until the rust and gunk is gone. Now it's rust inhibiting coolant from Walmart.

When I first got my 1962 S2, I had serious cooling problems given north Florida summer heat. I solved it by repeated cooling system flushes, adding a baffle between the top of the radiator and the snout, adding an oil cooler, and adding a fan on the front end of the engine. That fan was an original option and I found an original part. It does the same job as an electric fan behind the radiator. So far she settles in at 160 F and stays there.

I also found this fan blade for in front of the radiator. I drilled out the center to match the existing motor shaft, and reversed the pitch of the blades to match the rotation of the motor. $19 solution, with no trimming needed. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092479J4C?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Ordering one from Redline was over $700. However, there is a small shop in Cairo GA (pronounced kay-ro) that repaired mine for $75, and did it in one week. My radiator was the only one in the shop that wasn't from a big piece of farm equipment or a truck. Repairing radiators is becoming as rare an industry as rewinding motors.

Thank you, WDB. I had rejected that because my lenses are flat rather than conical, but a closer look after your prompt showed that they have the flat ones, too. --Tim.

This should be an easy one, but I can't find them on Moss, Redline, eBay etc. They're two inch diameter clear front marker light lenses. Can someone name a source, or have spares to sell? Thanks a bunch.

Short of ordering a new one from Redline, has anyone got a spare radiator for an S2? Also, the blades but not the little electric motor from the fan in front of the radiator disappeared in the painting process. I can cut down a larger fan, but again, if anyone has one to sell...

Sounds like you've done about all you can given starting with a beer can with braces. Cages for racing 7s come close to being a frame within a frame, especially when there's a brace taking up the passenger seat.