Timothy Keith-Lucas

A 12' enclosed has 12' in the square before the triangular nose. Sevens are 11' long. We have a small winch in the V with two leads to the truck battery, and both the bed and the ramp back door have 2x4 tracks that keep the wheels straight as the winch pulls the Seven (or my wife's Model T) in. The front wheels hit chocks, so the front end is held between the taut winch cable and the chocks. At the rear end we have tie-downs that secure it both fore and aft. Open trailers: You're not tending toward them, but if you do a 6x12 utility trailer will do it if you take off the tailgate ramp and use 8' aluminum ramps from Harbor Freight. Same winch rig. Most of the open trailers I see above are aluminum; that ups the price a bunch. Our 7x12 enclosed cost $4,400 and the open trailer $1,900 three years ago, but we live near the manufacturers. It's raining right now but if you want pictures I can post them in a few days. The down side of cheaper steel trailers is that they weigh more. For going a distance, the enclosed trailer is not comfortable behind a Dodge Caravan but the open trailer is. An SUV with a bit of muscle would pull either, I think.

$400 shoes aren't going to cut any seconds off your lap times, and $400 spent somewhere else might. 1. Narrow enough for you to put the brake down before the clutch without getting your feet tangled. 2. Stiff enough to allow the distributed load of your foot to be concentrated on the small area of the pedals. 3. Going to stay tied on snugly. 4. Reasonably comfortable to walk in. I can say from experience that climbing shoes do all but #4 well, and then miserably fail when you stand up. The Goodyear auto racing shoes Scott mentions run $24-$64 on Amazon.

Or, if you prefer, Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/10L0L-Universal-Mirror-Yamaha-Interior/dp/B08R9SSY8P/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=235RPPW3YIJRE&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.ESJbcjhySunudtH4XfpIZeXfBEf61SNj_LuguDDDsl5-Hiqta3tqxzHvsPv3rDPNoxUyNRA6gVvbtjZrmcuYbK-OdUY6T13AIo3lCZmEIrZ6BVW1hwkeL9V5Wk1t6yDl0Tr9kD_eqWZOmsZpZRKmYY5ypUqWX7NaKt1uDHtlB7FRIy9HTJT8cGtnN71aM6h3N7UopBLkOCDZDRsm6_r6-EgKpzsYqzM-yv0SIsIbPXx9cRpOUKBQoLNORSdp3tjcu82wbRTjOaUW8Phe_ydY4La60QsBebJ3GwuO8BC6Cqw.CHw3xHAwMSD4vaIx-p1fz3AKgNzpo6iI-xXOzeyHwOc&dib_tag=se&keywords=golf+cart+mirrors+rear+view&qid=1763994143&sprefix=gulf+cart+mirrors%2Caps%2C171&sr=8-3-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

This one doesn't list dimensions, but looks like what you are looking for: https://www.ebay.com/itm/156026315184?_skw=golf+cart+mirrors+rear+view&itmmeta=01KAV3KG7HFF8PF9F1N9XY3R5D&hash=item2453e4a1b0:g:HakAAOSwgfFlsieM&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1epAwK6GpblnY7mPMCYGtm6CAX03I77KR9RhOvxSwBzOAnzb6uosZbKMKLoA5ZuXzOQoRZgvCOE%2FCvxgPOG7BIzxxfdiuY2Vlwn8DMwLKkm0SgDp%2F41pYSyG1l88qknBOmUeCK6B1M6O00kq4qSV%2BMOyEmsg1TAwLy77JGn7%2FTufxInN7LlWaxSMBv9%2FGUY699DhkrAEPpnsFqXMc5fQ055JALsDd7hIqCQPicj2nRJjszBfUKV43v7UqAg4bGmQMIXk148%2FYeCkghdLRnc5%2FYxCI%2B8BdOohyoQ%2B62ZUf%2B7dQ5sO4bcKY4E%2BOyVNtQrmK0%3D|tkp%3ABFBM9IPO49Zm There are several options on eBay "Golf cart mirrors."

North Florida, actually. South Florida is the home of "More cents than sense" Lamborghini owners and drunk boaters. North Florida is the origin of headlines that start "Florida Man...", multiple candidates for town idiot in each village, jacked-up tricked-out Jeeps that have never been off pavement, and family trees that don't branch. Oh, and bears. We have lots of bears. I do remember one time the temperature dropped below freezing. It was a major crisis for our Emergency Management.

Thank you both. I think I'll proceed with the plug as a temporary until two weeks from now when I'll be driving by an Advance Auto Parts. It may be a cold weather job getting the other two out. I wanted an original Series 2 and I got it. The constant problem is that it sat in storage for 59 years. Oops! I'm at my volunteer job, and will on the way home drive by a Carquest which is part of Advance. It's owned by my boss's boss.

As usual, wonderful help. Thank you. The air-borne plug has been slightly flattened but I think will tap into place. I'll let everything dry, then put a little Permatex around the edge, tap it into place, and then give it a couple of moderate whacks with a socket, 1/2" extension, and two pound brass hammer. I've already hosed the driveway (dogs get poisoned on ethel glycol; it tastes sweet) and showered off all the coolant I got in the face. Unfortunately, the plug that thought it was a frisbee was immediately above the dip stick, so an oil inspection is on order as well. Hey, this is not the first time that MGA With an Attitude has had a very informative article.

Need a little help here. What I'm guessing (I live in Florida) is one of three freeze plugs on the right side of my Austin A engine went flying, followed by flying coolant. The conditions were: Sitting in the driveway, reving the engine following a carb adjustment, just passing 140 F, about when the 7 PSI/160 F thermostat cooling system pressurizes. The disk (first photograph) labelled 1014 and 1 5/8 (its diameter) flew off, with the coolant following very promptly. Hate to have that happen while I was driving. My other engine (second photograph) has bolts through the disks that go to bars on the back side which may be holding the disks in place. So, do I drill a hole in each of the three plugs and rig a way to hold them in place? Are these things frequent fliers? I hesitate to simply press the plug back in place. So what now?

Here go: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/threaded-rods/threaded-rods-1~~/threaded-rods-3~performance~high-pressure/ If that's not right for you back up a bit in McMaster-Carr and go down a different branch. Their catalog lets you start with something like "fastener" and go through choice points until you find what you want or that it it not manufactured.

McMaster-Carr at mcmaster.com I'll go looking in a minute.

If you're looking at a 6x12 enclosed, be very careful about the width of the door - it is not 6 feet. We use a 7x12 single axle (a rater rare trailer; got it from the manufacturer) for my Seven and it doesn't leave much space. The V nose is a good place for a small winch that runs off the truck battery. Single axle trailers are good for 1,500 pounds or so payload; dual axles are good for twice that. Don't push the limits on either the trailer load or the vehicle towing capacity. We added 2x4 tracks to the trailer bed so it will load either my Seven or my wife's Ford Model T.

Hmmm. If the trailer/Caterham combination were to be stored off site, you want an enclosed trailer. By going to the manufacturer I got a 7x12 single axle enclosed trailer that can barely be towed by my wife's Dodge Grand Caravan (everything close to capacity) with either her Model T or my Seven. It's better with our Ford F-150 pickup, the standard family vehicle in this rural county. Our other option is a 6x12 (very common) single axle utility trailer. It tows either car comfortably with the mini-van and is hardly noticed by the truck. I mounted some plywood on the front to keep gravel off my Seven's snout. Both trailers have small winches mounted that run off the vehicle battery. Hope that gives you some ideas.

Thank you, JB.

Got it, and thanks. For the fun of it, I connected the two with a clear vinyl tube. Now I can see droplets of gasoline migrating to the left or to the right depending on which carb is pulling more. Hmmmm. I just invented a new way to equalize SU carbs....

And this Bud's for you, 11Budlite. Thank you. That must have been an emissions control solution. It would never fit in my Series 2, even with the little Austin A engine. I was thinking more of just routing the oily air into the carbs.

Thanks so much. I'll think about venting the crankcase and the rocker top into them to get rid of that oily air, but until then, they get caps.

See the two brass tubes coming out of my SU carbs at about 45 degrees near the throttle spindle? I can find nothing about them in all the guides to SU carbs that I have, and they don't appear in any of the pictures I've found. Left open, they suck air behind the venturi and everything goes lean. If I interconnect them with clear tubing I can see which carb is pulling harder. Any wisdom out there?

My guess is "not much." My reason is that the front of the scuttle attaches only to the sheet aluminum fire wall - there is not a frame member at the front. That's a lot of opportunity to flex between the frame member at the top of the instrument panel to the bottom of the fire wall.

Rivet nuts certainly will last longer than sheet metal screws. Allow me to recommend the steel ones - it's too easy to spin the aluminum ones with just a tiny bit too much torque on the wrench. I set my drill (not my 1/4 inch impact driver) on low torque and chase the threads with a tap if I run into resistance.

So, I'm not alone in having the scuttle riveted to the top edge of the firewall. She's back together, will hit the rod in a few days, and going to a friendly local car show in a week.

Going to IamScotticus

Wow! Thanks so much for responding and telling me about it. That's really odd. Mine is a flat "U" with the windscreen brackets bolted through. The front edge of the scuttle is turned down so it overlaps the firewall. No plate. The turned down front edge was riveted to the fire wall in a string of about twenty blind rivets. The after edge is rolled, and then was riveted to the round frame member that also supports the top edge of the instrument panel. Not as many rivets this time. There is no facility for easy removal of the scuttle. The stems for the wipers come up through the scuttle in front of the windscreen, but the motor and arm are anchored separately to the instrument panel. My S2 America was factory assembled and imported to the US in 1962. I have no reason to believe that the scuttle was ever removed after manufacture. The other oddity is that it's an "America" but has a right hand steering wheel. I can see how owners would have complained and asked for a way to remove the scuttle. You really cannot access the wiring from below. Well, I had the same problem they had, and solved it by substituting rivet nuts and screws for all those rivets. It works - I just put it back in place a few minutes ago. Apparently, I've got a somewhat odd S2.

I picked up two of these on eBay and only have a use for one. I seem to remember that someone was looking for one a few weeks ago. It's the type that clamps onto the edge of the windscreen bracket, and is identical left/right. I'd appreciate reimbursement for shipping, but if you need it, it's yours.

When it came time to reassemble my Seven, it occurred to me that it had been a long job of drilling out blind rivets to remove the panel between the firewall and the top of the instrument panel, and that it had been necessary in order to access the rat's nest of wiring behind the panel. No way I could see what was going on from the bottom. So, I substituted steel 8-32 rivet nuts for the aluminum blind rivets. Good move. I no sooner had her together than I started having problems with the 63 year-old wiring. The turn signals and that horrid Lucas $160 turn signal switch failed, the sidelights partially failed, the brake lights went dark -- everything started falling apart. The Dark Knight said get home before dark, and he meant it. So, off came the entire panel with the windscreen still attached, I ran new wire, and today the assembly does back on.

I'll go back and add a digit. Thanks for noticing that I forgot that. There. Since all the manufacturers that started with positive earth got on the same bandwagon with negative earth, I figure the negative earth wire harness smoke should have the higher number. LUCAS SMOKE NEG.pdf