Timothy Keith-Lucas

Here's a strange one: Ammeter was reading negative, and more so with the lights on. OK, I think, this generator is toast and why not replace it with an alternator? Done. Added a little digital voltmeter while I was at it. Now, cruising around the county, the voltmeter reads 14.4 volts, so that alternator is pumping out, and the ammeter still reads negative, more so with the lights on. No change. So, perhaps the generator was pumping out all along, but the ammeter only reads the outflow. It doesn't even go to zero when the generator is working; it reads the amps being used independent of the amps being generated. How do you mis-wire an ammeter to do this? It's not stopping me, it's just really odd.

What that means to me is never to let my engines near any coolant but water and ethylene glycol. With the best heat transfer coming from water, and a Florida environment in which freezing temperatures are rare and even rarer below 30 degrees Fahrenheit, mostly water seems a better bet than 50/50.

That's really professional work, MV8. As a temporary addition until I can get the materials together, I've added a block of closed cell foam on top of the radiator to reduce the leakage over the top. So far, my adventures in Florida 2023 cooling of a cold wet English cooled sports car has included: 1. Bunches of flushing 2. Oil cooler 3. Repair radiator leak 4. Temporary baffle 5. Repair electric fan 6. Add fan blades to water pump Autumn has come to North Florida. 68 this morning, not 82. Thank you all for all your help.

Good thought. I'll add one. Thanks.

I did get a bunch of debris out of it that didn't come loose the last time I flushed it. Yeah, we had a very hot summer here in north Florida. Until I added an oil cooler and a set of fan blades on the front of the water pump, she overheated with alarming frequency.

Out. Pin hole under the manufacturer's label. It's brass! I can solder it. It was tricky getting it out. Released the four bolts on the steering cross bar, moved the rubber boots out to the wheels, and twisted it past the fan motor. Thanks for the coaching.

It appears that all the leaks are in the upper tank, so I have hope. But, gawd almighty! You have to take the steering out to get the radiator loose...

As in Reline Motorsports, Pompano Beach?

Thanks so much. You are a wonderful resource for us beginners. Here's the one I need. I've found one on UK eBay for L344 plus bunches of shipping. I think I'll try for a repair, if I can find a shop that still does that. If it's brass (I have not checked), I could solder it or braise it.

Can anyone cite a source for a radiator for my 1962 S2? The current radiator is 17" tall, 20" wide, and 3" thick. The top and bottom tubes extend up and down slightlybeyond that 17" measurement.

Amazon has a $26 remote control battery cut off switch that would be a super high-tech way to go at it. In this case I didn't spend money or wait for delivery - the switch was sitting in a parts tote within 10 feet of the Seven. Here: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Disconnect-Negative-Vehicle-Anti-Theft/dp/B0C23LBFMV/ref=sxin_26_sbv_search_btf?content-id=amzn1.sym.6cfa532e-9c8f-48d2-87a3-a61547a0d356%3Aamzn1.sym.6cfa532e-9c8f-48d2-87a3-a61547a0d356&crid=VY2TW8IEJTP5&cv_ct_cx=battery+disconnect+switch+12v&keywords=battery+disconnect+switch+12v&pd_rd_i=B0C23LBFMV&pd_rd_r=8f4683ee-019e-4fc1-8535-f022be83aa82&pd_rd_w=UyC8A&pd_rd_wg=IoHVQ&pf_rd_p=6cfa532e-9c8f-48d2-87a3-a61547a0d356&pf_rd_r=QA7CWNE0BBT9550ZNZDT&qid=1688043517&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=battery+disconnect+switch%2Caps%2C338&sr=1-1-5190daf0-67e3-427c-bea6-c72c1df98776

I suppose a race marshal would have a conniption fit, but it works. My own carelessness caused a wiring fire in my Seven. I managed while rewiring the tachometer to connect the two sides of the battery together. From that I learned that 1) it takes forever to get to the battery to disconnect it, and 2) the 1960s rack for my fire extinguisher is difficult to release. So, I took a cheap battery disconnect blade switch similar to this one https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Disconnect-Vehicle-Negative-Vertical/dp/B0896YT9MY/ref=sr_1_5?crid=VY2TW8IEJTP5&keywords=battery+disconnect+switch+12v&qid=1687962487&sprefix=battery+disconnect+switch%2Caps%2C338&sr=8-5 drilled out the rivet that acts as the hinge pin for the blade and tied a piece of red paracord to one end. I mounted the switch on the battery, and ran the cord through the firewall, under the fire extinguisher release, and out to a handle hanging just below the panel on the passenger (left) side. Pull the handle and the fire extinguisher falls into the passenger foot well and the blade exits the clamps for the switch, disconnecting the battery. Details: I have a positive ground system with the negative battery pole nearer the firewall, so I had to make sure that the blade completely exits, rather than connecting the negative battery pole to the aluminum firewall. My bonnet comes close to the battery posts, so I added insulation where contact could occur. There are far more sophisticated ways to skin this cat (ouch), but it works.

In the last few days I've had very positive interactions with two Lotus 7 companies, and want to share my experience and recommendation of them. 1. Hayes Harrison of Wire Wheels in Vero Beach, Florida, a Lotus-centered used sports car dealer. Long after selling my 7 to me, Hayes road tripped to Orlando and retrieved a spare engine that has a history with my car. He then passed it on to me this last Friday. He didn't have to do that - money in hand, I could have been forgotten. If I ever want a more modern Lotus, I'm going back to him. 2. Clocks for Classics in the UK. I purchased a circuit with which to update my Smith tachometer from them. I had no end of trouble getting it to work, and Mark Willows stayed right with me, exchanging emails virtually daily, until I found the problem, which was a silly mistake on my part. I had put the innards into the tach can crooked, so the center of the needle touched the glass front, stopping it from moving. The company and Mark get my strong recommendation for anyone needing instrument work.

Former University Fire Marshal and fire extinguisher tech here. Let's look at it from a practical side. First, what's the fire likely to be? The scary possibility is that it's Class B, meaning gasoline, since a gasoline fire in a car can kill the occupant(s) very quickly. The second possibility is that it's Class A (Polyester resin and tires, in this case) because we are talking about Sevens. The resin burns very quickly, the smoke is very toxic, and the car is destroyed very quickly. We don't want that to happen. Class C is only a concern in the fire originating in the electrical system, at 12V DC, so using water is OK. Dry chemical is cheap and the extinguisher not very heavy. It does a good job on Class B (oil and gasoline) fires, and a fair but not very good job on A. It makes a horrid mess and destroys anything electronic it touches, due to its corrosive properties. It makes a crust between the fuel and the flames, and does little to remove heat. Halon derivatives are very expensive and act by displacement of oxygen. It does little to remove heat from a Class A fire, and in an outdoor environment (race day) can blow away. It is very clean, destroying nothing. CO2 is cheap, displaces like Halon, does not remove heat, is clean, and blows away. Its containers are very heavy. Water (Yes, they make water extinguishers) is cheap, heavy, does a great job cooling a Class A fire, but is useless in a Class B fire. So, what's the practical solution for a Seven on fire with fuel and fiberglass likely involved? At that moment, dry chemical is the best compromise. IT makes a whopping cloud of powder, It will stop both Class A and B, and if we have water (or foam) coming soon the water can cool everything down below flash point. Then we have one hell of a mess, and the electronics (on a Seven?) are shot, but we got the most possible property protected and the best opportunity for getting the occupants out. Particularly on a windy day, we could not have done as well with Halon, CO2, or water. The next day, you go at it with lots of soapy water. It's corrosive, and even mild corrosion bothers the airlines, but it's not THAT corrosive.

Thank you, John. I choose the curviest roads in the area, which are few and far between in an area where two mile straight-aways and three foot changes in elevation are the norm. She doesn't scare me any more, so I opened her up with 4,800 RPM shifts as near as I can tell (the tach still needs work). What a joy! I came back through the little village of Carrabelle, crowded today with Memorial Day tourists and their boats, and turned some heads. The Seven doesn't reach the lug nuts on the usual Ford F150 and F250 trucks pulling boats, but those drivers are thrilled to see someone actually getting to drive. Lots of thumbs up and waves. Tomorrow should also be good for driving, so I have a longer trip in mind. No car shows until September - it's too hot here during the summer. Then we'll take both the Seven and my wife's 1924 Model T to a very friendly and casual show north of here. Lisa is busy in the garage bay next to the Seven refinishing the block and head on her T. She's finding lots of really bad work done by some previous owner. Things like an off center and smashed exhaust manifold gasket. It should be spinning like a top by September.

Sorry, duplicate

Yep. Beginner, but learning with your help. AWWWLLRRRIGGHT!! New paint, rough like the original. Replaced the generator with an alternator, 14.45 V at idle speed - now I can ride with my headlights on. New leather straps, new red slip covers over the 1962 upholstery. Soaked the cooling system in vinegar for 24 hours. Extended the roll bar to cover both seats. Annnndd, mysteriously, she now idles where she should. It's a gorgeous 75 degree sunny day in north Florida, and I'm going for a ride. I'm sorry, but I can't figure out how to flip the photo. I even tried flipping the file before , and it still puts it in upside down.

Many thanks for bunches of helpful replies. You guys are great at supporting a beginner. The slip covers are complete and on the old upholstery, an alternator is on order, and now I can move to figuring out the tachometer and the idle adjustment. It's a beautiful 72 degree sunny day, so a cruise is definitely called for.

1. I'm tired of messing with the generator on my Sprite 1962 engine. Has any one got a recommendation for an alternator to replace it? 2. Is there a source of radiators that tell you the dimensions, rather than asking for your make/model so you can find one that fits? Particularly, one that adds some cooling capacity to make up the difference between U.K. ambient and Florida ambient? Many thanks in advance.

1962 Lotus 7 Nope. After 70 MPH it starts to lift off in front. They don't call them "wings" for nothing. I'm going to add flaps for lower speed landings. Yep. Corners like a scared rabbit. Send your Ford F-150 into the ditch. Hell, send your Camaro into the ditch. Yep. Original, save for the windscreen and muffler. No, not really. Imagine being in an accident while driving a Coke can, with a steel rod aimed at your chest. About 43 HP, but about 963 pounds. 0-60? Beat your Harley.

Extensive experience with small engine (largely motorcycle) carbs, but no experience with anything resembling these SUs. I read "Tuning SU carburetor for Idiots" and found that the unfamiliar terminology meant that I could not understand what was being explained. It's pretty bad when you can't follow the "for idiots" instructions. I'm in the middle of painting my 7; new BRG with a touch of flattener to keep it from looking repainted. Once that's done, I'll return to the carbs and the tach, which is a model that even "Clocks for Classics" has not seen before. Thank you to everyone who has lent a hand to me above. I'll post pictures of the linkage upon a return. Were 7 America's delivered painted or bare? The original paint job on SB1160 was very poorly done, right down to water drops under the paint and streaked sanding. I can't imagine the factory doing this bad a job.

Thank you, MV8 and wdb. Those points give me lots of ways of chasing it down. Largely, you are telling me that something is keeping the throttle plate or the choke plate open a bit. I ca explore that. Thanks also for the advanced course on coolant system clearing. The thermostat does appear to be working - at 160 F the coolant starts circulating. I think I'll block off the radiator and fill it with an acid cleaner for awhile, and wash the outside surfaces of the radiator fins as well.

Here's my "Getting to know my 7" question of the week. I had problems with over heating; when I finally got her home I flushed the cooling system several times and am hoping that solved that. But, possibly related (?) my idle speed is way up - about 2,000 RPM, and adjusting the idle screw (and the choke screw) all the way out doesn't change it. The throttle cable is not the problem. It's a pair of SUs on aa Austin 1098 CC engine. Is something stuck inside? Am I going to find that one or both throttle cylinders is sticking part way up? I'm inclined to believe that "Carburetor" is a French word for "You're going to regret messing with this," so I'm asking before I dig in. Thanks.

This is Florida. What is this "sub-freezing temperatures" of which you speak?

Thanks a bunch. I'll check the lubrication just to make sure. --Tim.