CharlesG

I got it from Summit Racing. It's 1 in thick high density SFI approved.

It's firm but not too hard. If I'm in a situation where I need that padding, I want something that will protect me. The softer products won't be as effective.

I'm 6'1" and the seat headrest is useless for me, so I used self adhesive padding where my head contacts the roll bar.

After reading your other thread about converting to Jenvey throttle bodies, I suspect part of your problem is the 50mm TBs you're currently running. That's a lot of air flow for a 200hp engine with Stage 1 cams. In comparison, my 235hp Vauxhall capable of 8000+ rpm has 48mm Weber throttle bodies.

Even more amazing is that it was done in California.

The holes in the pedal and the threaded arm can be welded and re drilled for a new pin or bolt. Weld them, grind them smooth, drill holes, then heat them red hot and quench them in water. It'll harden them enough to slow down the wear.

My 1994 has the VIN on the aluminum plate and stamped into the chassis on the pedal box frame.

I have some experience welding aluminum. If the sump was welded from one side, that could be a problem. With the sump removed from the engine, it would be possible to do a proper repair.

Definitely, I own that car.

The SDK is the manufacturer code for Caterham. The other K indicates a kit built car.

Thank you for the clarification, I wasn’t 100% sure on those.

The D stands for de Dion axle, and yes, 5 is the SV chassis. 7 would be 2007. Once the years cycle from A to Y, they go to 1 thru 9 before going back to A.

SDK= Manufacturer code for Caterham L= Left hand drive L= Live axle K= Kit built A= Chassis type NS= Engine not supplied Y= Model year (2000)

Another option would be to change the steering wheel. I put this one in my seven and have plenty of clearance.

For better visibility, something like this may work for you; https://www.buggywhip.com/collections/fiberglass-whips/products/fiberglass-whips-with-lamp-holder