joe7

The orientation of the brass elbow is a great way to fill the catch can. Turn it up at least above horizontal. Experience on that!!

The bracket is, if I recall correctly, from a Cortina.

Reference the Dave Bean manual pg Q7 for all Kent motors, pre, Xflow and twin cam types.

Yes he has them for sale but last time I checked he's been Out of Stock for a few years!

Looking at the picture, I'd say the TO bearing looks a bit rusty, which could make a scraping noise as its may not be rotating smoothly. (?)

I will send it out Monday or Tuesday. If you have a chance can you send me a phone # or private email. Joe

I have a Fel-Pro head gasket that I had prepared by Barry at PHP Race Engines for a pre crossflow as a spare. Since I don't have the car anymore, I will send it to you free of charge if you want it.

I have used the Fel-Pro 8360-PT1 head gaskets for a long time with out fail, as long as you keep it under 6,500. However you will need to get the water holes in the "triangle" opened up. Check your new one to your old one. I always used hardened washer under the head bolts. Also, have the head checked, these often have a crack between #2 & #3.

No. It was 14 year's ago when i did mine. So I don't clearly recall where I got a stock set from. My best guess is from Dave Bean.

SJ Part # for the kit is SJ036Q0008. They also sell the parts separately.

Did you try SJ Sports Cars UK? Not sure if this what you are looking for. They have a 3 piece kit: PP w/platen, disc, T/O bearing for UK 198 about $250.

I have posted a comment on Elan.net that might be of interest https://lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=54482.

Did one of these on my 7. Used a Triumph/Lotus Elans setup modified to fit by extending the outer "tube" part of the shaft. And while you are at it, get the solid type column to rack joint.

Here's an idea, but not sure its a good one! Try removing the plug in the top of the water pump to see if water comes out with the engine off or when you run the engine.

Had the same problem with my 7. It seemed to have an air lock. I figured that out by measuring the amount of coolant I poured in which was way short of what should be. Try opening the drain cock on the side of the block to let some air out. Another basic technique is to squeeze the upper hose to "push" the coolant through to check the system is full.

There's several pictures of the tunnel, handbrake etc on the 7 that sold on Bring a Trailer in October 2022. That should give you an idea of how things should be. Forgot to add. Look at the pics of the spare parts. There is a trans cover there. That one was made for the Ford remote gear change.

There 2 different sizes of right angle drives and matched adapters. Simply a large RA and the corresponding large adapter, small RA and corresponding small adapter. So make sure you know what size (s) you have as I didn't when I started on that project!

According to what I've read, the problem with cooling is that without a blanking plate of some sort the water passes through the radiator to fast which doesn't allow it to cool. I fitted a thermostat to my 7 and drilled 3, 1/8 holes to allow the system to bleed. Problem is that the thermostat is too tall and interferes with the swirl pot. So I made a 3/8 aluminum inch spacer to get it to fit, with gaskets on either side As far as a thermostat failing and leaving one stranded on the side of the road. It isn't very difficult to resolve. Remove 2 bolt, remove failed thermostat reinstall 2 bolts.

What you have is known as an Integral remote. These were available 1967 on and used mainly in Cortina and some 7s. The Triumph is a bolt on extension with a Lotus designed aluminum wedge shaped adapter. The Cortina extension is a direct bolt on which this one is not. If you look into the shifter through the opening you should see a single shift rail. Maybe all you need is the shift lever and related components, retaining cap, spring, shift ball, etc. Some of these parts are the same as the Cortina remote but not the shift lever. Maybe someone can post a picture of these components from the Dave Bean Catalogue.

OK got it. On the white 7w/ red, its under Gen Tech info pg 6 about 7 or 8 from the top. "Series 2 distributor....."

Regarding sealing in the windscreen, I had to replace mine from an encounter with a rock. Had a local glass repair shop provide the windscreen (light tint green and tempered as original) and fit it in the frame, $400. They came out, helped me remove it, took it to their shop, installed the new glass and returned to help me install it. So maybe see what the glass shops recommend. Noted that the holes in the side panel pics look very large. How were the panels attached to the frame? Are the holes in the frame that large? And finally, when deciding on what material to use for the dash and side panels, be sure to consider what you are going to do with the seats so as to not get a mismatch.

If you look at the pictures of the interior of the yellow 7 sold in Oct 2022 on BAT you can get an idea of the texture. Most interior shops have this materiel in stock. BTW, I couldn't re-find the white 7 with red interior I previously mentioned BUT its on this site somewhere!

There a photo of a white w/ red interior on this site in the build thread at September 2022.

I'm finding the same thing to be true. If I'm close to the RH edge of the road, I MUST be comfortably away from the center line. That's the effect of high school geometry lessons, parallel lines!

In response to you comments about right hand drive here's the way to do it. When driving look to the "right" side line rather than the "center" line to keep you in your lane. I've been driving right hand 7s for over 40 years and its the way to do it. Also, I always look "a bit ahead" before I make any moves.