joe7

As Henry suggested, first decide what gear ratios you have. Time to simplify this shifter setup issue. You will probably need to rebuild/refresh the trans. If so, just replace the tail shaft with the common ones for Elans and Cortinas. Or as in the Dave Bean catalog, just install a cover plate over the rear most port. For either option get the type of remote used in some later 7s that originally came from a Cortina. Those are generally available in cast iron although aluminum ones are also available. I did a rough but close measurement and the center line of the shifter opening for the Cortina remote is about 2 1/4 aft of the end of the tailshaft. Another option is to get an original type used in early 7s that came from a Triumph Spitfire which requires an aluminum wedged adapter Lotus made. I don't have one to measure, but I think it sits about 1 inch aft of the end of the tailshaft. Once you decide one which way to go you will need to make sure your tunnel cover shifter opening is in the correct location. Good luck!

Seems like Henry pretty much nailed the different type of tail shafts. Not sure what your application is, 7 or Elan? On the bell housing per MV8, neither are for a Ford 3 rail that uses the bell housing with an external slave cylinder located in a boss on the right side (viewing from the front) of BH, which is generally used in Elan and 7s. Also to note, those type of BH usually have the starter mount open in the rear to accommodate the starter pinion. On the picture of the input shaft, you will probably need to clean it up and check that its in spec.

PM sent about early 7 transmissions

PM sent.

Here's an overview of all the parts for the remote. PM sent

Add-liteness. The images are for the single rail Ford trans. For the remote shifter repair, I didn't do anything to the trans internals. I replaced the shift dog which is at the end of the shift rod on the Triumph housing. The shift dog goes into the shift rails. See Moss Motors - Spitfire- External Gearbox, 1962-74 (3 rail) . Its part #77, unfortunately NA. Try the Triumph crowd, they should have one as that was where I got mine. At the amazing cost of $25 plus shipping. Hope this helps. BTW, I have a complete aluminum remote shifter which is a definite upgrade if you are interested.

I had a similar problem. It was the shift dog. Rather that it being "round" with flats on the sides, it was worn square. I guess after 90,000 miles it just was worn down. Bought a used Spit shift dog and had to grind the sides of "ball" to make it with flats. BTW, that's what Lotus did. Another thing I did at that time was to replace the reverse stop inside near the end of the shift lever. That was a small problem finding one because the "older" ones were screwed in while the newer ones are riveted.

What will owners of Sevens/7s do when the ball joints in these arms wear out and become a possible driving hazard? I also had that concern. So, I bought a pair of NOS track control arms. Unfortunately, I sold the 7 before I need them and still have them.

Good idea is to read comments from previous sales to get an idea of questions the peanut gallery will ask. Usual, tires, fuel cell, belts dates etc. Before going live, check the write up from the BaT editor as occasionally they make mistakes. Also lots of pics.

The orientation of the brass elbow is a great way to fill the catch can. Turn it up at least above horizontal. Experience on that!!

The bracket is, if I recall correctly, from a Cortina.

Reference the Dave Bean manual pg Q7 for all Kent motors, pre, Xflow and twin cam types.

Yes he has them for sale but last time I checked he's been Out of Stock for a few years!

Looking at the picture, I'd say the TO bearing looks a bit rusty, which could make a scraping noise as its may not be rotating smoothly. (?)

I will send it out Monday or Tuesday. If you have a chance can you send me a phone # or private email. Joe

I have a Fel-Pro head gasket that I had prepared by Barry at PHP Race Engines for a pre crossflow as a spare. Since I don't have the car anymore, I will send it to you free of charge if you want it.

I have used the Fel-Pro 8360-PT1 head gaskets for a long time with out fail, as long as you keep it under 6,500. However you will need to get the water holes in the "triangle" opened up. Check your new one to your old one. I always used hardened washer under the head bolts. Also, have the head checked, these often have a crack between #2 & #3.

No. It was 14 year's ago when i did mine. So I don't clearly recall where I got a stock set from. My best guess is from Dave Bean.

SJ Part # for the kit is SJ036Q0008. They also sell the parts separately.

Did you try SJ Sports Cars UK? Not sure if this what you are looking for. They have a 3 piece kit: PP w/platen, disc, T/O bearing for UK 198 about $250.

I have posted a comment on Elan.net that might be of interest https://lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=54482.

Did one of these on my 7. Used a Triumph/Lotus Elans setup modified to fit by extending the outer "tube" part of the shaft. And while you are at it, get the solid type column to rack joint.

Here's an idea, but not sure its a good one! Try removing the plug in the top of the water pump to see if water comes out with the engine off or when you run the engine.

Had the same problem with my 7. It seemed to have an air lock. I figured that out by measuring the amount of coolant I poured in which was way short of what should be. Try opening the drain cock on the side of the block to let some air out. Another basic technique is to squeeze the upper hose to "push" the coolant through to check the system is full.

There's several pictures of the tunnel, handbrake etc on the 7 that sold on Bring a Trailer in October 2022. That should give you an idea of how things should be. Forgot to add. Look at the pics of the spare parts. There is a trans cover there. That one was made for the Ford remote gear change.