Wayne Stambaugh

If you can get one for that engine, you are right! Even at that you'll likely have so jetting/tuning to do.

You might want to look at a Weber chart and find out all the specs on these. The Type is 40DCOE 19 and they are both the same. The No. is 6824 on one and 6899 on the other. If you can determine based on the numbers I’d feel comfortable with you going with them.

It’s not a jetting problem. Yes obviously you can reject any way that you like. There are jets, emulsion tubes, tube ends, venturis, that can all be changed. I say they won’t work on a Seven I am talking in particular a Ford Cosworth 1600 BDR. It’s about the pull direction for the throttle hook up. You can make anything work if you have machining capability and time is no issue. These pull from the opposite direction as the Webers on my BDR. I don’t want to sell them to you letting you think they will bolt right on and everything will hook up and work just fine because it won’t (again based on the BDR engine) If you understand this and still want them, I’ll be happy to ship them to you.

Sorry to be slow getting back to you.

Donnie, I do still have these carburetors and they are still for sale. I am sure you understand they really won’t work on a super 7. They are likely for a BMW possibly a 1600 or a 2002 but I don’t know that for sure. They are actually in the Weber boxes that they were originally received in. No they are definitely no Chinese knockoffs. If you like I’ll pack them up and get you a shipping price and they I’ll get them on their way. I had really forgotten about them. I had planned to advertise them on a BMW forum but didn’t get around to it.

Sale pending.

I purchased a lowered floor pan for my 86 S3 DeDion Caterham from Redline Components. As you can see by the label this is not made by Redline, it’s an original Arch made Caterham part. If you have a straight axle car pre 96 this may fit. You can always call Caterham to verify. This sells for $450 US. My loss, your gain, I’ll take $275 for it, you pay the shipping, I’m in Montgomery Alabama.

Bought a lowered left floor pan and a master cyl/Brake pedal bracket from Redline Components. The label says its for a pre 1996 S3 and post 2000. I mentioned that my car had a DeDion rear suspension as well. The pan it approximately 2” to narrow at tunnel side. Front to back it seems to be okay. At least it serves as a good pattern. It does give me a lot of dimensional information that will come in handy.

Are there and shows or gathering of Caterham Sevens and Lotus Sevens in the Eastern half of the US this year?

Mine measures 37-3/4 as well. It was worth a look!

I'll try to get dimensions this evening. Thanks. Wayne

I haven’t measured yet but what year was the hood supposed to fit? I have a 1986 S3 and wouldn’t mind having one on it.

I’m still recovering from skin cancer surgery on my left hand but my interest and effort hasn’t changed. I started a new full time job the first work day of the new year. It requires about 50 hours a week so it does steal some of my Caterham time. I posted a note in the tech forum minutes ago, asking if any forum members are using the Tillett B6 40 extra cut seat. I have postponed other work on the car until I can get into a comfortable position in the car to enable me to drive it. As I may have mentioned before, when I lift my left leg to put my foot on the clutch, my left leg, just above the knee hits the frame tube under the bottom edge of the dash. This restricts me from getting my foot on top of the clutch pedal. I am very tempted to purchase this seat to see how much difference it would make. Even if it doesn’t totally resolve the problem it would certainly be a big improvement especially if you are driving the car hard. I’ll keep you posted as thing progress.

I’m still fighting to find my ideal driver position in my 86 Caterham S3. I have had several people question the chassis length (cockpit length) and the original build paperwork show “standard chassis” . Based on the fact I’m 6’ tall and the word “standard” in the paperwork, this chassis has to be the shortest one available, otherwise you would need to be less than 5’ 6” tall to drive it. I am considering lowering the floor but only as a last resort. Before I do that I think I’d rather try a Tillett seat. I have talked to Tillett and have been advised to order a B6 40 extra cut (Caterham cut) seat, bottom mount. In researching this seat it appears that you can get the bottom of the seat almost making contact with the floor. I haven’t seen the seat in person but the seat shell doesn’t look like it could be any thicker than about 3/8”. Again, this seems to be as low as you can get without lowering the floor. Has anyone out there purchased this seat for there car? I know Caterham offers a Tillett seat on their website but my guess is that they probably mark it up and I couldn’t get any details about it anyway. Any information or advice anyone can offer will be appreciated.

No evidence that mine were ever drilled. They certainly were not drilled at the factory and filled later. The little end plug looks like plastic at least that was my impression when it looked at it. Really I don’t care what it’s made from or even that they are there. It’s not something you ever see when the car is assembled. It appears it was up to the assembler to drill the bolt hole through the wing and bracket and bolt the two together. I think I mentioned too, that the wings are the original parts and they are in the original BRG gell coated fiberglass, there are no holes in the wings for the bolts either and no repairs of holes where they were filled. I’m so lucky that my car is so original. It is probably one of the most original cars out there. If there is a more original car, it is still in a crate somewhere, yet to be opened and assembled.

Sometimes I think every one of these cars are different. I know that can’t be true but considering the cars have been built since 1957 I’m sure there have been lots of changes over the years. I have included a picture of my bracket and you can see, it has no tab on it where a hole would go. I think in the end we will all be experts on our own cars but I’m afraid only small percentage of our knowledge will be transferable to other Sevens but that is okay, I’ve never been an expert on much of anything anyway. Thanks for your pictures. The more we see the more educated we get the better off we are.

Working on the installation of the Tilton 6100 HRB to replace the cable operated clutch. Obviously machining is required but nothing extraordinary. I have adjusted the brake pedal to get it lower in the foot box but I’m still having problems getting my left foot on top of the clutch pedal. My left knee hits the lower edge of the dash. This is with the steering wheel removed! It appears I’m going to have to lower the floor and at this point I’m not even sure that this will give me the clearance I need. I am 6’ tall and currently 185 pounds. Is there anyone in the south east who is driving an S3 chassis with a lowered floor. I would like to sit in a car with a lowered floor just to be sure this is going to be the solution to the problem. I would be happy to drive up to 3 or 4 hours to check it out. Thanks in advance. If I can’t get comfortable in the S3 I will have to consider moving on to an SV chassis. No matter how much I like this car and the history behind this particular one, if I can’t drive it I can’t keep it.

I will use a PPG product called Delfleet Essenial to paint the engine. It’s actually much better paint than it needs but it will look nice when it’s done I’ll be happy to provide the formula after the paint is matched and mixed.

The same color you see in the pictures now. The engine, gearbox etc. have never been painted other than what was put on them when they were new.

You are right Bob. I love this little car and truly enjoy every minute I spend with it.

Progress has not stopped, I have been quietly making decisions, buying parts, studying the car and planning changes. One of the more important changes will be an HRB to replace the cable clutch actuator. I’m also playing with pedal positions to get myself more comfortable in the car. I have removed the steel fuel tank and am debating on restoring it or replacing it. It appears to have a lot of surface rust in it but it may be mostly just a thin surface coating. I got a price on a new aluminum tank from the UK and it would cost about $450 delivered so it is probably worth trying to restore it. I have restored several in the past and I kind of made myself a promise that If I could replace a tank for $250 or less I would buy a new tank. At $450 again, the effort in restoring it makes sense. The car is disassembled and ready for paint. Hopefully I’ll get it painted within about 6 weeks. I have settled on Lotus racing green with a yellow stripe. I’ll also repaint the engine block the same color it originally was. The blue cover on the top of the head will be left as is. No reason to repaint it, it’s paint is fine the way it is. I’ll add more pictures as things progress.

Ed, I’ll take four of the mushroom head wing screws and nuts. See my PM

I’m 68 years old so even being 5 hous away, I may still trailer mine. This is a great section of road to drive but needless to say, it stays really busy. It’s unfortunate but I have seen a lot of accidents both motorcycles and cars during the busy times. The busy times can be somewhat dangerous even though you maybe super careful. Last time I rode it ( on motorcycle) there was an idiot trying to drive a car hauler through there and he beached it in one of the tight turns. You never know what you will see. It’s still worth the trip just keep your eyes wide open both in front of you and behind you. Keep me posted, Happy Holidays!

Steve, will you drive your car from PA to the Tail or trailer it down there. That’s a long drive for you. I’m about 5 hours from it and I have been thinking about going up there if my car is ready in the spring. I will probably drive mine there. I have been on the Dragon more times than I can remember on various motorcycles but never a car. Pick an early morning on a weekday!