twobone

I guess I've never driven a body on frame car before. Unless we were on glass smooth pavement, the car bucked and banged all over the place. The creaks and groans were nuts. The whole steering assembly seemed to move around as we bumped along the road. Also it felt like I was steering a boat. The steering wheel play before the car actually turned was very disconcerting. I don't remember my old clapped out MGB being the same, but that was a monocoque chassis. The suspension on this TR was very stiff so it likely contributed to the problem. I really wanted to love that TR. They are just so good looking.

Well I drove a TR4 to see what life is like on the other side of the fence. What a tractor. A beatiful tractor......but a tractor all the same. I'm going to stay the course and address this stupid govt reg issue.

Hi guys, I'm thinking of selling my 89' Caterham xflow live axle. Its registered as a 1990 Caterham up here in Ontario Canada. Due to some tightening in local emission testing regulations, its becoming more difficult to obtain a valid plate sticker on my car. What do I need to do in order to post it in the for sale section?

Just one point about the noise cancelling ear buds. You need to have wrestled the wind buffeting demon to the ground. Serious buffeting against the ear defenders can cause the sound deadening system to "glitch" creating an annoying and loud chirp. Just an FYI

http://www.bose.ca/controller?url=/shop_online/headphones/noise_cancelling_headphones/quietcomfort_20/index.jsp%20&Variant=qc20i http://www.amazon.com/3M-Peltor-H10A-Optime-Earmuff/dp/B00009LI4K The ear buds alone don't work when driving as they react to wind buffeting, but add the Peltors and it creates a cocoon of quiet. Check your local laws about wearing headphones. Most of my driving is off-times (early sundays on country roads with little or no traffic)

I gave myself a bad case of ear ringing in my car after just one day-long blat without ear protection. Yes, just one day! One mistake and permanent damage, so please be careful. I now have the car in a great state. I've probably overdone it, but now I can go for a drive and enjoy it without fear of more hearing damage. Problems addressed: transmission and rear diff noise and resonance -> B-quiet sound deadening all around Exhaust noise on my x-flow -> new larger muffler from a Rover Caterham. It slipped right on Wind buffeting -> bought lexan wind protectors + added 4.5 inches of additional lexan + half doors to reduce the wind that fires up off the rear wheels + wind blocker For long distance drives -> Bose in-ear noise cancelling headphones + ear defenders. Now I can listen to Jerry Garcia's while carving my favourite country roads.

I had been thinking about getting a soft bits for seven wind blocker. However they no longer make one that fits my older style seats. So I built my own. I obtained a "universal" wind blocker off of ebay. I then cut and binded holes for the harnesses. The frame compresses at the bottom so it fits behind the seats. Yes it does work. The wind buffeting when combined with either full doors or with my modified lexan wind deflectors is greatly reduced, which for me makes the overall experience more fun. I can focus more on the road and the beautiful surroundings without that annoying side of the head wind hammering. The rear view with my "mirrors for sevens" mirror is not hindered. If you have thought of doing something like this, I would highly recommend it.

thanks for the pics! Is your steering a lot heavier with the big tires? Any rubbing on hard cornering? Do you have a 4 speed or a 5 speed? How did the change in tires affect your cruising revs on back roads or on the highway. Are you findings any difference? Thanks

can you post me some picks of your car with those tires?

its item #28 on a regular DCOE

I have a nice set of 185/60/13 tires on now. I'm trying to raise my gearing thru the use of a higher aspect tire. If I go a step up, my highway revs drop by about 10%, which is a big plus for touring

There is a little grub screw on the side of the carb body that holds the venturi in place. If the venturi twists a bit in the body it can restrict the fuel flow (or so I have heard)

I want a road tire that holds up to aggressive cornering. I guess I should not worry too much given the light weight of the car, but I want a safe summer tire

I'm looking for a north american source for a reasonable tire. All I can find are poor quality

I think you are right. I've never heard any clicking with the key turned so I'm pretty sure I don't have an electric pump. I will replace my in-line fuel filter and check the weber in-carb filters and double check the float and ball/needle. I also wonder about vapor lock, but it happens when the engine temp is normal and hot. Its a relatively new issue and so I'm hopeful its just something gunky

Hmmm. 90' Caterham xflow I have this persistent problem. My car has a hard time starting when cold, it takes some serious applications of the throttle manually at the carbs to activate the accelerator pumps on the carbs and 3-4 attempts to catch. It gets really bad once the car has been run, for example when I stop for gas. Often it takes a very long time to restart with again a ton of manual applications of the throttle bar at the carbs. I'm starting to wonder about fuel pressure issues. When the car is running it seems to fuel quite well. Maybe some occasional stumbles on hard cornering or after hard braking. Could I have a fuel pressure issue? Is there both a physical pump in the block as well as an electric one in the tank? I'm starting to wonder if the electric pump in the tank (if one exists) has given up the ghost and that is why I'm not getting enough fuel pressure at rest? I assume once running the block manual pump is drawing enough, but at rest there is not enough pressure created with the starter to draw gas and start her (especially when she is warm) thoughts?

I'm considering a 2001 Boxster S if its a good deal. Assuming it has had the IMS bearing replaced, how do folks feel about Boxsters? I used to own an 81' and 84' 911 so I'm familiar with the marque

I covered my tunnel with two layers of sound deadening/heat insulation from a company in Alberta (b-quiet). It made a difference. I also have a carpetted tunnel. I have a heater as well and blocked some of the vent holes. Lastly, I don't have a pedal box cover so I made sure there was good heat insulation material sealing where the levers enter the foot well. Good luck

Turns out the car was sold. Thanks for the thoughts

Someone at our club posted for sale a beautiful "last of the turbo series - I think its an S4" Esprit. It got me daydreaming...the Esprit is such a wicked wedge design. So sexy, so unique. Anyone have any experience with one? The owner is asking about ~$24K and its supposed to be super clean and well cared for

I learned something new today! I thought the overflow tank was there just to take excess coolant that overflows. I didn't think about the fact that the sealed system might suck back in the coolant that may have overflowed. Its great to have such a helpful group. I will get a tester as well. Another reason to go to the autoparts store! Thanks

I have a feeling that the mechanic put in 100% anti-freeze. I don't recall seeing him add water. Perhaps I will drain off some coolant and add water and see if the situation improves

Last fall I changed my coolant. This year I've noticed I'm running a lot hotter. Its an xflow with a dry sump Anytime I'm not moving for more than 20-30 seconds the water temp starts to runs up to ~95-105 degrees. Once under way the temp drops to the middle of the guage (~85-90 degrees) The fan only comes in at high temps I will check again for air locks. Could my water pump be on the way out? How would I know? Should I change my rad cap to a lower temp? With the massive dry sump I don't worry about oil temp, but water temp scares me Any advice?

Its the venturi mentioned in this article: http://tedperkins.com/weber_principles.htm

check that the choke/venturi has not turned within the carb