bsimon

Pat, Did some measurements. Clutch housing to ground is 3.25". Front of wet sump to ground calculates out to 3" Dry sump is 4.75" at front scavenge well/bump. Looking at my old CC wet sump, there are no drag marks on the fins. AFAIK, I never struck it. Could be just good luck though...

I'll go out to the shed and measure the clearance tomorrow. By comparing the height of the Pace dry sump pan to the old CC wet pan, we should be able to get some adjusted numbers. Measure the clearance on your car from the bottom of the clutch housing to the tarmac so we're talking on the same wavelength.

I would have to go measure actual clearance. I did drive my car with a wet sump for many years with no ill effects. The CC wet sump really doesn't stick below the clutch housing that far. About the same clearance as a Cosworth dry sumped Duratec. Flywheel/clutch housing strikes are more likely than grounding the sump. I run 205/50-15 and 225/50-15 tyres. (23" OD) 205/55-16 tyres are nearly 25" in diameter. Keeping the foam insert in the wet sump current is important. Surge is minimal on the roadway, but longer sweeps on the track can lead to the usual wet sump surging issues.

Here's a Se7en project for your new Haas. PM me and I'll get you more information.

Here's what Caterham supplied with the uprated AP rear brakes. I don't think they are HPC specific, however the brake handle will be LHD or RHD. (RHD shown) The uprated brakes in this era usually have an yellow and silver enameled "Caterham" badge centred on the outer cylinder of the calipers. The parking calipers are alloy Airheart go kart parts. Right and Left The calipers and brackets are fairly light weight but most didn't install unless they were in a legal situation as you are. For example; I use an 8" bit of 2X4 as a parking brake.

Can't help you with octane. When I lived in Colorado, I would go to marinas and boat docks to get alky-free petrol. Watercraft and E10-15 don't go good together, so marine suppliers won't even sell it. If all else fails, you can separate the alcohol from petrol by mixing with tap water and draining the water after it settles. I used an inverted VP jug on a plant stand. The alky bonds to the water and settles to the bottom (top) of the jug and can be drained away. 1 quart or more of water to 5 USG of petrol. Here in Wyoming, we can buy alcohol-free petrol at about half the stations in town. Lots of boats, mowers, and motorized toys 'round these parts...

TPS = throttle position sensor ITB = individual throttle body

I'll post a picture in a day or so when I get time. The adapter is for the Jenvey 51mm tapered style throttle bodies, not the Weber conversion style. The mount may work on the Weber style TBs, but I'm not sure.

1995 : BMW : 318I : 1.8L 1796cc L4 M42 AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 5S5022 {#13631726591, TPS4129} BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1580864 STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # TH317 {Intermotor} Very reliable and similar electrical specs to the Colvern TPS. I got tired of replacing the Colvern about 20 years ago and engineered this swap. The Colvern's failure mode is to open circuit at the most inopportune time. The potentiometer wiper leaf loses it's tension and no longer contacts the carbon sector reliably. You will need to make an adapter for this to work. Also a female 3 pin Junior Power Minitimer connector will have to be installed on your pigtail. Adapter drawings attached. BMW 318I to Colvern TPS adaptor.pdf

The crank sensor is Standard Motor Products PC439 or Motaquip VRC116. Saab 9000 1994-1998. Saab part# 4227203 Might save a few bucks sourcing it at Rock Auto or Vato Zone... For future reference, starter is Saab 9000 as well.

Two schools on the crank bolt. Original is a one-time use stretch bolt. (available from the usual Vaux, Holden, Opel, Daihatsu sources) SBD and other builders use a grade 12.9 socket head cap screw. Getting the bolt out with the engine in the chassis is quite difficult. I can't recall the exact torque, but it's enough to turn the car over or rip out the motor mounts. I couldn't budge mine with an impact wrench. I built a torque bar that bolts to the damper and rests on the floor. Good luck!

They use the check valve as what I would consider a MacGyvered residual pressure valve. The spring is relied upon to keep the valve closed against gravitational pressure. When the engine starts the higher operating pressure opens the valve fully (or so you hope). You can see why I'm not a big fan.

I've heard of people installing check valves to stop the back flow. I'm not a big fan of check valves. Personally, I feel the oil supply to the pump should be as unrestricted as possible. Extra parts create extra problems. The use of check valves in dry sump systems will also create great debate in auto forums...YMMV

Cars with dry sumps always mark their spot on the garage floor. They are not asserting some kind of dominant behavior or anything, it's purely by design. The oil in the system wants to find it's gravitational level. Oil in the tank migrates through the gears in the pressure section of the pump and finds it's way into the crankcase sump. Since the sump is so shallow, the oil level eventually submerges much of the crank seals. Oil will piss out on the floor over time since crank seals are not designed to be submerged. Any plumbing that is below the level of the oil in the tank constitutes a potential leak as well, although these can usually be sorted out. This is what you need...:jester:

Drew, I see hints of a Kent block engine in your car. If so, check out this thread on starter/ring gear issues. http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/showthread.php?45048-Kent-Flywheel-ring-gear-starter-headache